JB Weld on crank end housing?

Rubatoguy

Rubatoguy

Member
I pulled the flywheel on my model A engine and found this - It looks like the rebuilder used JB Weld to form half of the end of the crank end bearing housing. Is this done very often and an accepted repair?

Todd
 

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I can't figure out what he was trying to accomplish. Also what do you have screwed into the crankshaft? The threads sure look rough.
 
also look at the big hammer mark on the flange.ain't no way a flywheel would set down true on that surface.
 
I'm a bit surprised as usually everyone sings the praises of JB weld in this chat room.

it seems that you may have a defective rear main cap or they couldn't get the slinger to fit right in the main cap? Clearly it would of been better to get another rear main cap rather than slap it on with a putty knife. The crank flange also is damaged with the big dent in it. Oops.!
I would contact the rebuilder if they are still in business and get your engine straightened out.
 
The dowell pins usually stay in the crankshaft ---it's hard to see in the picture, but it sort of looks like the dowell holes are threaded --perhaps there was a problem with the flywheel bolts and longer ones were tried, they were too long and that created the need for the repair. ----was the dowell retainer plate there when it was taken apart, how many bolts were there (should be 4)
 
I use a couple of old head studs in the crank like that to wiggle the flywheel off with.When it breaks free of it's nice seat against the flange I'm not trying to rassle 63 pounds all of a sudden.If I'm pulling an engine apart I throw one long stud into the crank like that too.It is easier to muckle onto that skinny stud to pick the crank up than to try to hold onto fat crank throws with oily fingers.
 
It looks like the same light colored JB Weld is on the rear main area of the block also. You showed the wear on the piston. What else has been found? Are the water jackets clean? Check the cam lobes and tappet diameters. At this point everything about the engine is in question.
 
So for the mystery of the studs, those are engine studs that I used to support the flywheel as I screwed a long cap screw though the starter mount to walk it off the crankshaft. If you look at my other posts, you can see the other items I have found with this engine. It was rebuilt by a so-cal well-known rebuilder in the 1980's and never ran correctly from the get-go. The car sat for many years, and I inherited it and am trying to get it into running condition.

Todd
 
A noble cause! We will help you. Also, get some resources, such as Les Andrews series or search this site for other suggestions. Reference manuals can be a huge help. Search this site; there is a ton of knowledge already archived here.

good luck!
 
The threaded post may just be used to support the flywheel when removing it. That dent will make the flywheel wobble.
 
Be nice!

Can't anyone see that the flywheel was originally wobbling, the scientist-mechanic had no shims, so he ingeniously kept hitting the crankshaft with a big hammer until the flywheel was true & quit wobbling.

Wait for the next photos to see how this chemistry-minded professor also tightened the connecting rod bearings by adding J.B. Weld mixed with mercury & smeared it on top of the Babbitt with a putty knife..
 
I was reading a thread on the EV8 forum about endplay on the crank. Some were talking about welding and then machining on the crank. Is that possible on the A's crank or not. I'm thinking excessive end play contributes to rear main leaks??
Paul in CT
 
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