Reenforcing bands

Peter J

Peter J

Well-known member
Hey Guys, I'm redoing the breaks on my 29 and am thinking of adding reeinforcing bands to the drums as they turned down to .080 in the front. How effective are they?

Thanks, Pete
 
At .080, I think replacement is the best option, even with re-inforcing bands I would not go under .125. You are just asking for trouble. Rod
 
Peter,

I am not sure I understand your question. Rowdy understanding and answer may be correct but I can't comment on it. The standard way of measuring brake drums is on the diameter. Did you mean to say that your drums that were originally 11.000 diameter are now 11.080 diameter? If that is the case you should definitely replace them. In some states the maximum legal limit is .060 oversize. Also note that installing the bands will frequently distort the drums and require a clean up cut.

Charlie Stephens
 
My understanding was the .080 was the present wall thickness, which is the way I normally measure them when considering to keep or scrap using Rainmaker Ron's ball bearing method. Either way I think replacement is the best option. Rod
 
Thanks guys. I was sort of afraid of that. The wedge on the fronts do have to go quite a way our to adjust. I just wasn't expecting the extra outlay of bucks at this time. Can the old studs be reused and pressed back in to the new drum?
Pete
 
Peter J said:
Thanks guys. I was sort of afraid of that. The wedge on the fronts do have to go quite a way our to adjust. I just wasn't expecting the extra outlay of bucks at this time. Can the old studs be reused and pressed back in to the new drum?
Pete
Click to expand...

The old studs need the swage cut off and can not be reused.

The price of 4 new cast iron drums and studs is quite a bit, but it is less than the cost of not stopping in time. :(
 
Peter J said:
Thanks guys. I was sort of afraid of that. The wedge on the fronts do have to go quite a way our to adjust. I just wasn't expecting the extra outlay of bucks at this time. Can the old studs be reused and pressed back in to the new drum?
Pete
Click to expand...

Pete,
"REUSE STUDS"...NO!
 
mickeyb said:
Rowdy what is rainmaker ron's ball bearing method ????
Click to expand...

You use a ball bearing to contact the inside drum surface. The diameter known, you can use a micrometer to measure the drum thickness. A piece of bar stock would also work.
 
Model A wheel studs are not like modern studs that have a serrated shoulder and just press-in from the rear; the Ford studs have a plain shoulder that is then swaged (peened) down tight against the drum/hub using a press and swaging tool. They are a one-use device; you have to destroy them to get the hub apart from the drum.
 
Thanks again for the advice guys. I think I'll finish my break rehab and keep the old lady close to home to test the functions. Meantime, I'm going to check out some swap meets with a mic. and marble hopefully to find some better drums. Failing that, I guess I'll bite the bullet and get some new ones from a supplier.
Pete
 
Peter,, PLEASE do not re-use those paperweights. If you had an accident because you could not stop and they could prove you chose to overlook this safety issue you would be found neglagent if they could prove you knew. Besides that having an A that won't stop gives the hobby a bad name. Yes I know they are abit spendy, but still cheaper than being sued. Rod
 
When you order your new cast iron drums, order them with the new hubs installed, and new studs already swedged in place. Usually the supplier will ensure that the drums have been checked for true, and if nessesary a skim clean-up cut has been completed. IMHO Don't use those .080" oversize drums. Life is too short as it is
 
You can use a hole saw that will fit down over the stud. Use lots of cutting oil and low speed. Just enough to cut the swedged portion of the metal. You may have to tap the stud with a hammer to remove.
It's your call when it comes to re-using the original hubs. Quite often the outside race Timkin bearing fits are shot, and unless the new swedging job is done correctly, it is quite easy to distort the hub.
Once again.....have it done by an expert with the proper equipment. Cheaper in the long run.
 
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