first distributor timing attempt

insomniacshotrods,

I find that if I watch the pin while slowly cranking by hand that I can see the pin drop into place.

Sometimes the movement is so subtle that it is hard to feel, but I can see the movement.

Darryl in Fairbanks
 
Taking the spark plugs out like Tom suggested makes finding the pin hole a whole lot easer. You can then gently with your hand, sometimes turn the fan pulley to adjust back and forth a bit.
 
Hey you inventors, Dog:cool: here, sumbody should cobble up a tiny unit to screw into the timing pin hole, like: a micro-switch, a small battery, & a buzzer, to find thet DANG dimple! (Why do they call it a dimple? It's really an UN-DIMPLE, which is really jist a HOLE!) AND, I git 10% ROYALTY, fer thinkin' it up:D (GOD, you should see the price uf HIGH quality DOG:cool: FOOD!) Buster T.:cool:
(Ol' Bill "THINKS" he read about one, sumwhere thet goes, "CLICK"???? But maybe he's mistaken, he also "THINKS" he hears a "BIRD CHIRPING" sound in his LEFT EAR!!!) Should I WURRY?? Buster T.:cool:
 

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When I have trouble with the timing pin, I use a short philips screwdriver. The sharper point finds the dimple more easily. Once I find a shallow one, I use a drill and BY HAND remove a little more material to enlarge the dimple. I do this through the timing pin hole.
 
700rpm said:
When I have trouble with the timing pin, I use a short philips screwdriver. The sharper point finds the dimple more easily. Once I find a shallow one, I use a drill and BY HAND remove a little more material to enlarge the dimple. I do this through the timing pin hole.
Click to expand...
I once had a whistle that popped onto my compression guage adaptor, it had a low note, and changed to a high note, after you passed TDC! By rockin' back & forth, you could get within a few degrees of actual TDC.
Chief said, "It's close enough for all PRACTICAL purposes, & FARM equiptment" LOL
If yo' car does this:
1 Full retard=A smooth & rhythmical-TADA-TADA-TADA-TADA.
2 Half Advance=A faster, smooth idle.
3 Full Advance=An even faster, but a "ROLLING" idle.
THEN, IT'S PERFECT, DON'T DOODLE WITH IT!
Timing ONLY changes when the point rubbing block wears & decreases the point GAP! Just simply reset your point gap & timing will be PERFECT again. Lube yo' dist. cam with GOOD dist. cam grease, & oil the little pull out oiler in the side of the dist. & while you at it, oil the generator oilers & them 2 little "oil funnels" on yo' throttle crossbar, behind the engine! Do NOT use Vaseline to lube the dist. cam lobe!:eek: VASELINE has more important uses!:D (Life is too short to spend ALL yo' spare time checkin' yo' TIMING!! You'll probably miss all the cute ladies thet pass by:D) Bill W.
 

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Yo Bill, I jist sent you a PM I ment post 25 instead of 21 in the Pm. Still laughing. Thats jist the way that I pitcher it .

Yer brother Purdy
 
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Have the two tooth but the bolts at top of column tube are frozen and no way to use penetrating oil. I'm thinking rather than try to drill off the bolt heads, I'll make an extension to the spark rod with a thread-long nut.

Looks like some kind of gasket was 1/2 removed up at the column tube bracket for securing to the dash. appears digging it out would loosen tube enough to rotate & resolve retard travel.

thinking I could glue some kind of split seal into the bracket. I remeber something on an engine rear seal long ago.

what do you think?
THanks, Dick
 
You don't move anything at the top of the column, you loosen the one bolt that
hold the clamp at the bottom of the column and twist the whole mast .

Bob
 
30 A Ripper said:
Have the two tooth but the bolts at top of column tube are frozen and no way to use penetrating oil. I'm thinking rather than try to drill off the bolt heads, I'll make an extension to the spark rod with a thread-long nut.

Looks like some kind of gasket was 1/2 removed up at the column tube bracket for securing to the dash. appears digging it out would loosen tube enough to rotate & resolve retard travel.

thinking I could glue some kind of split seal into the bracket. I remeber something on an engine rear seal long ago.

what do you think?
THanks, Dick
Click to expand...

I would go through my screw driver collection and find one that fits the slot exactly. Iwould then clamp vise grip pliers to the shaft of the screw driver for leverage. With any stuck screws or bolts , I always first try turning them in the tightening direction to break loose any rust. If the screw will move the slightest amount in the tightening direction first, they will then back right out. Removing stuck fasteners can be a headache with old cars.
 
Man I hear you about finding the recessed dimple with the pin. I tried all kinds of stuff, knitting needles, wooden dowel, screwdriver, mirror and flashlight like the Romans used to do with mirrors and the sun to illuminate the Pyraminds ,etc. Got so mad I took off the front cover, installed a new cam gear and enlarged the TDC mark on the gear with a drill. End of problem.

Now if I only had an operable distributor to time !!
 
Duhh, I forgot about the clamp at the gas tank. I thought he was talking about
something at the top by the steering wheel. :o

Bob
 
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