Non-detergent oil

Ok.....thanks. Trying to decide what I need to do as far as the oil on my AA truck. It's been sitting up since the 70s and I got it running. No doubt it needs an oil change. The oil looks good on the dip stick but I'm sure there is a sludgy mess on the bottom. I guess I need to pull the plug and see what comes out then decide if I should just change it or drop the pan.
 
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I think you should drop the pan and clean it out, also the valve side cover. It is not that big of a job. I would recommend detergent oil.
 
High Tx,

Agree that if you follow George's sincere advice in reply #5, no matter what you discover in the oil pan & valve chamber, you will definitely have peace of mind that these areas will be free from sludge, as well as having an engine that can last a long time with far less subsequent future sludge build-up when using non-detergent oil.

A joking example on maintenance & cleanliness was posted on a sign years ago in a Dentist's office which read:

YOU REALLY DO NOT HAVE TO BRUSH "ALL" OF YOUR TEETH ............................

JUST BRUSH THE ONES YOU INTEND TO KEEP !
 
There is an oil dealer/distributor up on Shepard called Jones Oil that sold me a 5 gallon pail of non-detergent oil last time I needed it. I no longer have that engine. I still have a lot of it left, if you want it. Come get it (up in Spring).
 
I used some non-detergent oil that I had from years ago to oil the foam inside my new front & rear spring covers.

Hope nobody shoots at me for using non-detergent oil. LOL
 
If you have doubts as to wether you should drop the Pan, take a look at a current thread on this forum titled WHY YOU SHOULD DROP THE PAN. posted by Bob c
 
Tom,

Bought these about 18 years ago & installed them only last month -- all four (4) were undersized & tore when assembled over the spring's clamps -- thank goodness this vendor is no longer in business -- wonder why? -- will order new ones shortly.
 
H. L. Chauvin said:
Tom,

Bought these about 18 years ago & installed them only last month -- all four (4) were undersized & tore when assembled over the spring's clamps -- thank goodness this vendor is no longer in business -- wonder why? -- will order new ones shortly.
Click to expand...

I know there are (or were) at least two makers of spring covers. I'm not sure who sells which one, but when I bought some for guys, the sets from Bert's and Little Dearborn were better than the other repro set I saw.
 
Recently, I "refreshed" an old engine. When I got to the oil pump, it was a miracle that it didn't blow a rod or worse. The screen was about 80-90% clogged with sludge. this was due to the prior owner's use or non-detergent oil. It is a foolish belief to maintain the use of N-D oils when much better oils are available. I use Rotella and Castrol 10/30 oils. I don't believe one must go broke buying super sophisticated oils for a low reving, low bearing pressure engine like a model A. Always remember, the best oils of 1930 are nowhere near as good as the worst oils of 2013.
Terry
 
I used non detergent years ago but not anymore except for break in oil when I overhaul an engine. The rings need to wear in to the honed cylinder walls in order to seat . Non detergent oil has no antiwear additives and helps the rings seat quicker. I change the oil often in the break in period. After break in I use Walmart 20W50 high detergent oil. I see no need in paying premium price. It is my understanding that the Walmart 20W50 detergent oil is actually Mobil. Whatever, it works for me.
 
There was no cell phone, then there was the brick, and now we're talking iPhone 6.

In 1991, I used non-detergent oil to break in my newly built VW engine; but in 2013, we have Purple Power "Break-in Oil." Really, the only use for non-detergent oil in the 21st century is to spray it onto the undercarriage of your winter mule to prevent rust. Don't forget to pressure was it off when winter is over.
 
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