Dry lubricant for leaf springs

"Originally Posted by Rich in Tucson
For those of you who have used any form of brush or spray-on dry film lubricant (particularly spray Slip-Plate which I have):

A - Did you paint the springs before coating?

B - Did you paint the springs after coating and assembly?

If B, how did you keep the Slip-Plate from the spring sides or can it be painted over?

I was planning to assemble cleaned leaves, paint springs as an assembly, then disassemble to apply the Slip-Plate, or is that unnecessary work? Thanks."

A- No
B-Yes
As noted in an earlier post, I use ZepDryMoly on the spring rub surfaces and wipe the surface to be painted with lacquer thinner before painting. The overspray will come off easily.
ZepDryMoly is far superior to graphite sprays because of the molybdenum disulfide in it.
It can be obtained many places including Amazon.
http://www.amazon.com/ZEP-Dry-Moly-Film-Lubricant/dp/B00C6Q5EZM?tag=atomicindus08-20
 
I would only paint the friction surfaces with the coating you use. Then I would assemble the spring and paint it as an assembly. Do not know that this is the best technique, however.
 
  1. Yes I did paint my springs before coating
  2. Yes I painted the springs after coating on the sides only.
  3. Do not be concerned with painting over it.
 
I did not paint the springs before coating. I painted the assembled spring after coating. I brushed the slip glide graphite on and only wiped the excess off the outside of the assembled spring. I painted right over the areas that had graphite residue. It looked great, the spring s ride better than any I have done another way. I will do all of mine this way from here on.
 
midgetracer said:
I did not paint the springs before coating. I painted the assembled spring after coating. I brushed the slip glide graphite on and only wiped the excess off the outside of the assembled spring. I painted right over the areas that had graphite residue. It looked great, the spring s ride better than any I have done another way. I will do all of mine this way from here on.
Click to expand...

If you put 1/16 Teflon or UHMW strips between the 4 bottom leaves, you will be amazed at how much softer the ride is over what you have now.

By the way, I used to race midgets also.
 
Tom Endy said:
... I discovered that the John Deer dealers here in California no longer carried the product. I think it is a Califorina clean air issue. I was able to locate the product in Chicago. Superior Graphite www.superiorgraphite.com . I ordered a case of it for our club and when received it had the exact same label on the can except all reference to John Deer was missing.

Bratton's carry a similar product, part number 7250.

Tom Endy
Click to expand...
NAPA has it, part # 330403
 

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  • Slip Plate 330403.jpg
    Slip Plate 330403.jpg
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They sell the spray as well as the roll on quarts. I prefer the quarts and use a 3 inch roller.
 
Pete said:
If you put 1/16 Teflon or UHMW strips between the 4 bottom leaves, you will be amazed at how much softer the ride is over what you have now.

By the way, I used to race midgets also.
Click to expand...

This is what I did, front and rear, (Teflon, not midgets....:) )
 
On my 34 which rode like a dog,I took the springs apart,cleaned them,layed chassis grease between each leave and put graphite powder in between each leave as well,the assembled the spring and wrapped it in DENSO tape,it now rides like a dream.
Lawrie
 
After reading so many opinions on the various posts here is what I conclude:

1. Disassemble and wire brush well
2. Relieve the sharp edge on the ends of each leaf with a grinder
3. Brush on a coat of "Jasco Metal Prep" per instructions
4. Spray on a very light coat of primer (etching is what i use)
5. Brush on a good coat of "Slip-Plate" on the mating surfaces only
6. Assemble and finish spray the unit the color of your choice
 
lasjts said:
After reading so many opinions on the various posts here is what I conclude:

1. Disassemble and wire brush well
2. Relieve the sharp edge on the ends of each leaf with a grinder
3. Brush on a coat of "Jasco Metal Prep" per instructions
4. Spray on a very light coat of primer (etching is what i use)
5. Brush on a good coat of "Slip-Plate" on the mating surfaces only
6. Assemble and finish spray the unit the color of your choice
Click to expand...

Missed a step, smooth out any grooves in the leaves.

Keep V-8ing and 4-banging!
 
My mentor, an old time mechanic, taught me a trick about squeaky springs. Unload them until you get a gap between the leaves and put a penny on the bearing spot. No squeak! Better hurry though, Canada just did away with pennies, can the US be far behind?
 
JackA said:
My mentor, an old time mechanic, taught me a trick about squeaky springs. Unload them until you get a gap between the leaves and put a penny on the bearing spot. No squeak! Better hurry though, Canada just did away with pennies, can the US be far behind?
Click to expand...

Today's pennies are zinc with a very thin copper plating, so you'd be better off with a thin piece of copper stock from the hardware store. I'll stick with grease and graphite sprinkled on the grease.
 
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