Who installs "your" tires?

I agree with Tom on talcum powder. I didn't see mention of it on this post but do use the age old trick of duct taping tire irons. Also for us neophytes if you can find the little tool that screws on to the valve stem and has a small chain attached makes getting the stem thru the hole a breeze. I brought one for 75¢ a month ago.
 
Tom Wesenberg said:
Kevin, Mitch, and Bill have pretty well covered just what I was going to say. Be sure to use a powder, such as talc on the tube. I bought some body powder at K Mart that works well on inner tubes. I sprinkly it on fairly heavy and rub it to completly cover the tube. This is important not just for mounting, but so the tube doesn't stick to the tire from age and heat. I removed an old inner tube once that was just as though someone had glued it to the tire. I inflate the tube to about 2/3rds full, install it and then install the other tire bead. I just did 4 inner tubes on two lawn tractors and used Vaseline on the tire beads to help them slip over the rim. I then bounce the tire as I turn it around to help settle the tube. Then as Bill said, inflate it without the core, just enough to push the tire to it's position on the rim. I then let the air back out of the tube, and shake it a little to make sure the tube is in the correct position. Then I insert the core and inflate to 32 pounds pressure. BTW, the instruction sheet that came with my inner tubes said to start the tire bead on the side opposite the valve stem, and finish installing the tire at the stem.

As carefull as I was trying to be I used a screwdriver on the 12" tire and poked a small hole in the new tube. Nothing worse than having to patch a brand new tube.:mad::o The Carlise tubes are much better than the ones at Fleet Farm.:)

On Model A 21" wheels I will use a tire tool to start the removal of the tire, but I've always been able to install tubes and tires without any tools.
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Just bought a tube, "FOR FARM USE ONLY" to go in my OOOLD LESTER spare tire. It's a "Carlisle" & it's made in CHINA!!
How fast do modern TRACTORS go?:confused: Bill W.
 
Tom Wesenberg said:
Kevin, Mitch, and Bill have pretty well covered just what I was going to say. Be sure to use a powder, such as talc on the tube. I bought some body powder at K Mart that works well on inner tubes. I sprinkly it on fairly heavy and rub it to completly cover the tube. This is important not just for mounting, but so the tube doesn't stick to the tire from age and heat. I removed an old inner tube once that was just as though someone had glued it to the tire. I inflate the tube to about 2/3rds full, install it and then install the other tire bead. I just did 4 inner tubes on two lawn tractors and used Vaseline on the tire beads to help them slip over the rim. I then bounce the tire as I turn it around to help settle the tube. Then as Bill said, inflate it without the core, just enough to push the tire to it's position on the rim. I then let the air back out of the tube, and shake it a little to make sure the tube is in the correct position. Then I insert the core and inflate to 32 pounds pressure. BTW, the instruction sheet that came with my inner tubes said to start the tire bead on the side opposite the valve stem, and finish installing the tire at the stem.

As carefull as I was trying to be I used a screwdriver on the 12" tire and poked a small hole in the new tube. Nothing worse than having to patch a brand new tube.:mad::o The Carlise tubes are much better than the ones at Fleet Farm.:)

On Model A 21" wheels I will use a tire tool to start the removal of the tire, but I've always been able to install tubes and tires without any tools.
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thanks tom forgot about mentioning to use talc/powder on tube
 
Do-it-yourself verses Tire Shop

One thing I have not seen mentioned; What size tire (wheel) are we talking about. I have not mounted a Model A tire in 30 years, but from what I remember from the twenty years that I did change / mount Model A tires is this: the 21" tires mounting on the rolled edge of the 21" wheel rim is a 'piece of cake', doing it the 'old-fashioned' way, with a couple of tire irons, talcum powder and a little 'oomph'. The 19" rims, with the open straight edge rim - were noticeably more difficult. The tight circumference 16" rims nearly impossible.

The next time I need to change a tire, I may or may not change the tires myself on a 19", but I will most definitely have a shop change a 16", V-8 wheel. With out the 'Tire-Changing-Apparatus' (the wooden home-made types described in earlier posts) the 16" tire will be a '*****' ! What was once a 'no big deal' project while I was twenty - thirty - forty - fifty years old - now that I am approaching 75 years old, my 'umph' ain't what it used to be.

That being said, I am anxious to try out this new (to me) wooden box / black plastic bag method. It sounds like a great idea and should bring me into the 21st century !

As been said before - while the tire is off the rim, check the rim interior for possible clean-up (rust) and apply anti-rust dressing, and rubber rim liner. Also a good time to check carefully for bent spokes and other issues the wheel may have (i.e. cracked hub, bent rim, etc.).
 
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As long as we're on the subject of tires and tubes, a month ago I noticed the valve stem on my 28 Phaeton was crooked on my right rear tire. I jacked the tire up, let the air out and it was very easy to rotate the tire and tube to get the stem straight again. Makes me wonder if fast acceleration or hard braking will make the tire slip on the rim?
 
I do my own, mostly by hand. I mount the wheel on the rear spare tire mount for the operation. I use original style Go-Jo hand cleaner as a lubricant on the bead of the tire. I slip the backside of the tire on the rim. I install the tube and put in a little air to remove wrinkles and reduce the danger of pinching the tube. I then work the outer bead in place. I sometimes need to use the original tire iron to get the last few inches of the outer bead in place over the rim on 19 inch rims. The 21 inch rims with the round edges are much easier and need no tire iron. The hand cleaner washes off easily with water. There is a product called ruglide that also works well as a lubricant.
 
Tom Wesenberg said:
As long as we're on the subject of tires and tubes, a month ago I noticed the valve stem on my 28 Phaeton was crooked on my right rear tire. I jacked the tire up, let the air out and it was very easy to rotate the tire and tube to get the stem straight again. Makes me wonder if fast acceleration or hard braking will make the tire slip on the rim?
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interesting point tom i guess its possible.
drill the rim and put some sheetmetal screws into the bead ;)
 
Tom Wesenberg said:
As long as we're on the subject of tires and tubes, a month ago I noticed the valve stem on my 28 Phaeton was crooked on my right rear tire. I jacked the tire up, let the air out and it was very easy to rotate the tire and tube to get the stem straight again. Makes me wonder if fast acceleration or hard braking will make the tire slip on the rim?
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What is your time at the drags?
 
I use tire irons & soap. I also use bondo spreaders (flexible Plastic) between the rim & tire to protect the rim. Haven't marked or scratched a rim yet. good luck
 
I recently tried the plastic bag method with the wheel off of the car and on some blocks so the rear of the wheel could face up, then I could use tire tools on it on the back side. I did one wheel this way and then went looking for an easier method.

I found a youtube video showing how to do it on the car so I tried it. For me, this was a much much easier way of mounting my new tires. I only needed a tire iron to start the bead for removing the tire, that's it. With a little talc or soap this is the way to go as far as I'm concerned.

I recommend you have your car on solid jack stands because you need to push/pull pretty hard on the tire getting it started off/on.

Videos -
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R8iOSPLXR_4
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x7CL5ms21pI
 
Ditto P.S. in California. Les Schwab did a great job for me. They also do a great job of powder coating wheels. I don't work for them, never have, but appreciate their work here at the local shop.
 
Lee Mitch said:
Ditto P.S. in California. Les Schwab did a great job for me. They also do a great job of powder coating wheels. I don't work for them, never have, but appreciate their work here at the local shop.
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Can you get powder coating to match original Ford colors? Dunno much about powder coat.
 
Mitch//pa said:
interesting point tom i guess its possible.
drill the rim and put some sheetmetal screws into the bead ;)
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Good idea, put 1 or 2 on the backside. When I saw the"MORMON-METEOR" in the Utah State Capitol, the tire beads were screwed to the rims with a Kazillion SQUARE head LAG screws! Bill W.
(By the way, don't underestimate the skills of young tire changers, at the tire shop recently, I observed a whole crew of youngsters changing & balancing tires & they were DAMNED impressive & extremely careful!! They ARE specialists in their field & they REEKED with evidence of intensive training!! I WOULDN'T be at all hesitant to let them mount tires, even on newly powdercoated wheels, OR painted wheels, IF the paint was cured well.) Bill W.
 

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Can you get powder coating to match original Ford colors?

Huddy , YES, Les Schwab will paint your wheels original FORD colors, if YOU supply the paint. This will be at an extra cost however. Otherwise they have the standard basic colors, but nothing as specific as Ford's colors, i.e. 'Vermilion', 'French Grey', 'Straw' etc. So you would have to 'settle' for something near the color, but not original Ford Colors - i.e. for Ford's 'Vermilion', you get Red. Les Schwab does supply a small color chart, but paper color charts are known to be notoriously 'off-color' to the finial product. But if you are not too overly concerned with authentic accuracy, they do provide a good service, at a reasonable cost, with a color that may be 'close enough'.

As to whether or not to have your tires mounted by them (or any other tire/wheel shop), what I do is find a 'beater' wheel with a 'beater' tire and tube and watch them mount the tire. I talk with the installer and get a 'sense' of his sensitivity to my concerns. It only cost a few bucks for them to do this. If I like what I see, I bring in my 'real' tires/wheels, making sure I get the same guy to install them.

On the other hand, with this new wooden box platform / plastic garbage bag idea, the job sounds relatively and gives one a chance to participate in an age-old ritual, and 'inter-active living history' by re-living those 'thrilling days of yesteryear' !
 
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I've changed many, many tube-type tires over the years, from tractors to motorcycles. I think the ones on my Model A are the easiest mounting I've ever done-two 8" tire irons, and each new Firestone was on in just a few minutes, with no sweat at all. No lube, either. I think I mostly just "walked" the tires on with my feet. The only hints I've got: inflate the tube enough to round it out, and make sure the beads of the tire are always in the center "well" of the rim as you are working them on-that's what it's there for. Otherwise, You'll need the strength of Superman to pull that last section of bead over the rim if the rest of the bead is already seated against the edge of the rim.
 
Just mounted a 21 inch on a new wheel for a customer. Used a shipping blanket and my thumbs, took about 15 minutes. Bob
Idaho Brett said:
Hello, I'm restoring a family Model A that's been in storage since the early 80's. As for installing tires......What do most of you guys do?

Do you take your wheels and tires to a place like Discount Tire and hope they get it right? Or do most of you do it yourself to reduce the risk of getting your wheels messed up? Thanks.
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huddy said:
Can you get powder coating to match original Ford colors? Dunno much about powder coat.
Click to expand...

Les Schwab's red powder is close to Ford's Aurora Red. Schwab's Fruehauf Yellow is sorta close to Ford's Tacoma Cream. White is white, black is very black (not gray looking), etc.

If you want perfect color match and still using powder coat, then use this- http://www.modelawheelcolors.com/
 
I think they only had a few standard colors. I chose black, but a friend was able to get the straw color from them as well.
 
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