Do not believe in nuts for tank cleaning

If you cut them open, grit blast will do the trick. Beats chemicals any time but it required more equipment and skill than a lot of folks posess. A friend of mine uses reverse electrolisis to remove the iron oxide but it takes a long time and uses up a lot of anodes to get the stuff off.
 
I cut the top off mine

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Scraped all this crud out - the metalwork wasn't too bad.

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And welded the top back on. Little bit of distortion, not too bad.

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Still had a little bit of trouble with clogged filter, but getting better the more it gets used.

Mart.
 
The rocks treatment worked for me before that is why I like it. It would depend on the baffles scheme. Maybe molasses would be fool proof.
 
Is there any way other then a sealer to clean a tank WITHOUT ruining the paint?. I have some old woodgrain on the tank face that I want to keep and I'm going with the sealer.
 
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Brent>>>Roger, how do you propose to get all those items to get into ever nook & cranny with the tank baffles in place.>>>

Roger>>>The rocks treatment worked for me before that is why I like it.>>>

I like it too, Roger. You did say something like *small* sharp rocks. They probably do get to almost every nook and cranny. And the ones that don't, a good fuel filter will take care of the the rest of the rust. No need to defend your small sharp rock treatment. 8^)

Jack E/NJ
 
Bumping a great thread. It looks good as new to me.

Bruce, any more shots of this project on your hard drive?

-VT/JeffH
 
Bruce in southern OH said:
VeryTangled, will get photos for you, will be of tank with sealer installed.
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Are you going to seal it after it's welded back together? I was thinking that if you put sealer in the halves, then weld them together, the heat might turn some of the sealer into ash... and you'll be starting out with junk in your nice clean tank.
 
Don is a true craftsman and a gentleman, I have seen his work and have done business with him.

I was fortunate enough to find new new tanks for my `35 and `51 as they both had sat for too long. I figured it would be grief from now on if I didn't replace them. Bruce and Don just proved me right...
 
Mig top on, air test, took more sealer and rotated around tank top, this is the best way for this type tank. Could you see me putting filters on the gas line and wonder why it looks clean in the fill hole and ruining fuel pumps, dirty filters and carb bowl would always have that rust mud. I imagine there is some ash, I still run a Holley screw on filter, just one way to clean a tank, not a exact science.
 
Richard I helped Briuce cut his open,and when he seals it ,use a brush and not seal up to close to where the weld or edges will be .don't think there would be any burning of the sealer by only doing about 1/4 inch then move to other side for a small weld,when finished ,pour in some sealer and roll the tank to s seal seam ,,I did my 36 this way and worked fine.
 
We have clean many tanks successfully with a mixture of lemon juice and water. 20 percent juice 80 percent water. Duct take the openings, 3 hours per side, then turn over. Removes most of not all the rust. Rinse out a few times.
 
Don said:
Richard I helped Briuce cut his open,and when he seals it ,use a brush and not seal up to close to where the weld or edges will be .don't think there would be any burning of the sealer by only doing about 1/4 inch then move to other side for a small weld,when finished ,pour in some sealer and roll the tank to s seal seam ,,I did my 36 this way and worked fine.
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Yup, that makes sense.
 
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