Anyone use a "B" Carburetor?? thoughts??
- Thread starter msmaron
- Start date
Tiny
Well-known member
I have one I played with for a bit. My car was having other issues and I pulled it and went back to a Tilly. I would like to put it back on in the future. They have a power jet in them.
Heres some reading for you:
http://www.model-a.org/model_b_carb.html
Heres some reading for you:
http://www.model-a.org/model_b_carb.html
Kevin in NJ
Well-known member
A good operating A carb on an engine with a standard head and a B cam will run 60+ MPH and get over 20 MPG.
I had a B carb on a very standard engine. It went great, ran 55+ all day long. Never did fuel economy.
Switched the carb to a stock A carb with factory jets. Still went great and ran 55+ all day long.
That was on my 30 fordor I had that just loved to run fast. The engine was rebuilt in 1955 and I just ran it.
I had a B carb on a very standard engine. It went great, ran 55+ all day long. Never did fuel economy.
Switched the carb to a stock A carb with factory jets. Still went great and ran 55+ all day long.
That was on my 30 fordor I had that just loved to run fast. The engine was rebuilt in 1955 and I just ran it.
klawockvet
Senior Member
I'm running one with a B head and cam in a 28 roadster. I can't compare it to anything else as I have it on a new motor that has never run anything else. It runs great, starts great and I'm satisfied with the mileage. Drove down from Alaska to the states and averaged around 18mpg as I recall. Cruised around 55 all the way. Only reason I was thinking of changing was to put headers on the car but I decided against it as I hate to mess with a good thing.
lindy williams
Senior Member
I ran a "B" carb for several years . It worked fine . Maybe slightly better acceleration. It was the B-2 style with the rectaugular float and the slotted idle feed hole. Air Maze flame arrestors don't fit without modification.
Fred K-OR
Well-known member
My mechanic that rebuilt my huckster motor said I had a B carb on it. It is a stock A engine. What I found is that the mileage on the huckster with the B carb is not as good as the coupe with an A carb. But the huckster with the wooden body weighs more that a std 29 coupe. So don't know if this is a good comparison but that is what I found.
Mike V. Florida
Well-known member
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J Franklin
Well-known member
I have used one on an A manifold and wasn't impressed. Bought a B manifold but decided against it due to the muffler mod because I have an Aries. So- I am running a new made Zenith/ tractor style carb.
Mark,
One of the A's I worked on several years ago had a "B" carb... and I wasn't that impressed that it did any more than a stock good running "A" Carb. I currently have a '29 roadster I'm working on for a guy and doing a host of work on... it has a "B" carb. I have yet to go through the carb but probably will this weekend as I need to get this one out! My guess is they don't do any better than a good "A" carb. Wilth overdrive my Tudor will run 75 + so I'm not too worried about needing more performance. That's probably fast enough.... The stock "A" with snyder HC head and ryan overdrive 23% along with my 3:54 cruises very nicely at 60 on the highway. Still have plenty of throttle left when needed.
I think the larger bore engines might benefit from a little more carb... I'm kind of a purist and like the stock zeniths, have tried a few things in the past opening up the jets and the venturi bore.
it's out of my scope but have you tried a weber setup? I'll keep you posted on the "B" carb on the '29 and let you know in a few days.
Best Regards,
Larry Shepard
One of the A's I worked on several years ago had a "B" carb... and I wasn't that impressed that it did any more than a stock good running "A" Carb. I currently have a '29 roadster I'm working on for a guy and doing a host of work on... it has a "B" carb. I have yet to go through the carb but probably will this weekend as I need to get this one out! My guess is they don't do any better than a good "A" carb. Wilth overdrive my Tudor will run 75 + so I'm not too worried about needing more performance. That's probably fast enough.... The stock "A" with snyder HC head and ryan overdrive 23% along with my 3:54 cruises very nicely at 60 on the highway. Still have plenty of throttle left when needed.
I think the larger bore engines might benefit from a little more carb... I'm kind of a purist and like the stock zeniths, have tried a few things in the past opening up the jets and the venturi bore.
it's out of my scope but have you tried a weber setup? I'll keep you posted on the "B" carb on the '29 and let you know in a few days.
Best Regards,
Larry Shepard
jim1932
Well-known member
A 1932 Ford with a 4 banger was called a "Model B". This motor had a fuel pump higher compression and a few other changes. the references to "B" stuff are from this motor. The confusing thing is there is a "B" head which was a model a police head. the model B engine had a head with a "C" stamped on it. So you have to be careful when discussing the heads to know which one they mean.
msmaron
Well-known member
thanks all so far, I run a B dizzy and get 18 city and 22 highway with a Touring engine, high comp head and was thinking of the B carb to go with it, I have been told by Renners corner to bore out the A intake to match..they will do it for you if you like..Curious on what others who use them thought..Anyone run one with the B dizzy???
SSsssteamer
Well-known member
I first ran a B carb on our 1928 Roadster and it was snappier as compared to the A carb. I then put a B carb on our 1929 Tudor and it gave us about a 10% increase in power. Since then, I have also installed a B carb in our 1930 Standard phaeton with the same good results. I have opened up the A intake manifolds to match the larger intake bore of the B cars. I have found to not use the carb jets in the carb rebuild kits. They all have the wrong jet sizes and it fouls up a good carb. Reuse the old jets as they do not wear out. To tell the heads apart, the B head has a three bolt water pump where the A head has a four bolt water pump. The B head also has a little higher compression ratio. For a higher compression ratio on an A head, I use the new high compression model A heads sold by the Model A Ford parts jobbers. They look stock.
1931 flamingo
Well-known member
Mike: Purdy hasn't chimed in yet but I believe he has some experience with the B carb. The A intake manifold has to be enlarged to gain full effect. FWIW
Paul in CT
Paul in CT
msmaron
Well-known member
YES i agree to get the full effect and use of it...I have also been reading on the Ford Garage about the Model B Zenith Carburetor Power Jet Tube
the power jet tube used in the Model B Ford carburetor. From the web site:
"This jet enriches the airflow with added gas in open throttle conditions. It performs the same function as an accelerator pump, but without a pump diaphragm or complicated linkage mechanism.
The tube is immersed in a gas well in the lower carburetor body casting. The gas is metered into the well by the power jet orifice in the float chamber. The suction on the tube is controlled by an air passage valve machined into the throttle shaft and upper body. It is very common to find broken, damaged, or missing tubes in Model B carburetors. Unfortunately, the original tube is made from fragile brass and is pressed into the upper carburetor body casting. The tubes are easily damaged when disassembling or handling the upper body.
A non-functioning power tube negates the potential benefit of the Model B carburetor compared to the Model A Zenith, since the B power tube is what creates the much improved throttle response and power on demand.
There are three primary failure modes of the Model B power jet feature:
It will not function if the tube is plugged.
It will not function if the tube is cracked above the fuel level and leaks air.
It will not function if the air bleed hole in the casting is plugged.
Thank you Vince!!
Even with a non-functioning power jet, the B-carb will still outperform an A-carb at higher speeds, provided you have the intake manifold bore enlarged to match that of the the carb throttle bore. All you will miss is the stronger and momentary throttle response provided by the power jet when you step on the gas. One nice thing about the B-carb is the improved design and positioning of the float, which pretty much eliminates the fuel starvation and stalling after sudden stops or sharp turns.
AL in NY
Well-known member
Mark, I run a B carb on a B manifold and get 22 mpg at 50mph in Overdrive. I also run a mechanical advance distributor (The Zipper) from FS Ignitions. Timing is 15 degrees BTDC at 1750 rpms, my engine doesn't like a lot of advance below 1500. Car has excellent throttle response and very good low rpm torque. I'd also recommend not using the aftermarket jets, use the originals if you can. I run with GAV in the off position all the time. Can't really tell any difference between open 3/4-1 turn or closed.
*********Mark: Did you ever install those C&V bulbs from Australia?
PS: I'm also running a 180 degree thermostat which probably helps gas mileage a little.
*********Mark: Did you ever install those C&V bulbs from Australia?
PS: I'm also running a 180 degree thermostat which probably helps gas mileage a little.
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The #19 main jet on a B-carb is slightly narrower that the #20 main jet found in most A-carbs. I once found an A main jet in a B carb and when I replaced it with a #19 B main jet, the gas mileage improved by 2-3 MPG. I have wondered if putting the B-jet into an A-carb would improve the gas mileage? Anybody ever try that?
H. L. Chauvin
Well-known member
Hi Mark,
Have an excellent B carburetor with all original jets, & an excellent B distributor, where both are in like new condition because both were previously owned & maintained by my Uncle, (born 1905), who was a very meticulous professional school trained vintage mechanic who was taught everything mechanical & electrical from pouring Babbitt to repairing vintage auto 6 volt radios.
The previous owners of vintage vehicles & vintage parts can make a huge difference in the maintenance of items & current condition of same.
Have both, i.e., this B carburetor & this B distributor on my Town Sedan with a Mr. Ron Kelley installed counterweighted crank on an A engine with a lightened flywheel & an A timing cover; B Police Head & a 302 Stipe Cam, with ported engine intake chambers, ported A manifold, & eased circumferences on all valves; & a 3:27 R & P -- lots of pick up with B items -- never checked gas mileage -- "yet"; & never drove wide open -- "yet". LOL
Run the B distributor with an original pop-out switch, armored cable etc., & carry a complete Model A distributor spare already timed with correct point setting -- I can switch to all original A distributor in less than 5 minutes & continue rolling.
Carry a spare rebuilt A Zenith carb & can switch to an original A carburetor in about 10 minutes & keep rolling.
With four (4) grown children, just figured the Babbitt would last longer with a B distributor & not have to worry about them forgetting to adjust the A spark advance.
Very well pleased with all four (4) functional above mentioned items; however, it appears to have better performance & quicker pick up with the two (2) aforementioned B items.
Hope this helps.
Have an excellent B carburetor with all original jets, & an excellent B distributor, where both are in like new condition because both were previously owned & maintained by my Uncle, (born 1905), who was a very meticulous professional school trained vintage mechanic who was taught everything mechanical & electrical from pouring Babbitt to repairing vintage auto 6 volt radios.
The previous owners of vintage vehicles & vintage parts can make a huge difference in the maintenance of items & current condition of same.
Have both, i.e., this B carburetor & this B distributor on my Town Sedan with a Mr. Ron Kelley installed counterweighted crank on an A engine with a lightened flywheel & an A timing cover; B Police Head & a 302 Stipe Cam, with ported engine intake chambers, ported A manifold, & eased circumferences on all valves; & a 3:27 R & P -- lots of pick up with B items -- never checked gas mileage -- "yet"; & never drove wide open -- "yet". LOL
Run the B distributor with an original pop-out switch, armored cable etc., & carry a complete Model A distributor spare already timed with correct point setting -- I can switch to all original A distributor in less than 5 minutes & continue rolling.
Carry a spare rebuilt A Zenith carb & can switch to an original A carburetor in about 10 minutes & keep rolling.
With four (4) grown children, just figured the Babbitt would last longer with a B distributor & not have to worry about them forgetting to adjust the A spark advance.
Very well pleased with all four (4) functional above mentioned items; however, it appears to have better performance & quicker pick up with the two (2) aforementioned B items.
Hope this helps.