aa leave springs
- Thread starter Hondamate
- Start date
Check this tread http://forums.aa-fords.com/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=4172&hilit=rear+springs
This one has lots of pictures http://forums.aa-fords.com/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=4003&hilit=rear+springs
Bob
This one has lots of pictures http://forums.aa-fords.com/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=4003&hilit=rear+springs
Bob
Last edited:
Joe K
Well-known member
IIRC, the rear springs are only more difficult in that you want to have them "unloaded" however you can do it to them. And that includes loading by virtue of gravity. Also, the cantilever spring front attachment AND the mid attachment have a tendency to wear "egg shaped" and you try to get the spring off and the shoulder thus formed in wearing the egg prevents removal of the spring. You have to "fiddle" with the spring in two locations to get it to come off both pivots - a task worthy of Schwarzenegger at his prime.
The front is not much different from the car. A spring spreader as used on the car front helps, but only to get the spring eye positioned nicely to get the shackle removed with a large punch/BFH.
I have to admit, working on the AA was physically more demanding than working on the Model A. Parts are typically about three times the physical weight and volume, and AA bolts are in the size range of 1" to 1-1/2" instead of the easier removed Model A 3/8" to 3/4". I had to borrow a 650 FP air impact wrench with a 3/4" drive socket in the right sizes to get the lug nuts and hub/axle nuts off. And even then it took heat on those double aspect nuts used on the double rear wheels.
Don't forget that the lugnuts are marked to indicate removal turning. I may remember correctly that drivers side lugnuts tighten normally as in "clockwise," and passenger side lugnuts tighten "anti-clockwise." I believe Snyder's catalog has the lugnuts and points out correctly the tightening-loosening requirements for each.
Hope this helps
Joe K
The front is not much different from the car. A spring spreader as used on the car front helps, but only to get the spring eye positioned nicely to get the shackle removed with a large punch/BFH.
I have to admit, working on the AA was physically more demanding than working on the Model A. Parts are typically about three times the physical weight and volume, and AA bolts are in the size range of 1" to 1-1/2" instead of the easier removed Model A 3/8" to 3/4". I had to borrow a 650 FP air impact wrench with a 3/4" drive socket in the right sizes to get the lug nuts and hub/axle nuts off. And even then it took heat on those double aspect nuts used on the double rear wheels.
Don't forget that the lugnuts are marked to indicate removal turning. I may remember correctly that drivers side lugnuts tighten normally as in "clockwise," and passenger side lugnuts tighten "anti-clockwise." I believe Snyder's catalog has the lugnuts and points out correctly the tightening-loosening requirements for each.
Hope this helps
Joe K
SeaSlugs
Well-known member
yea one side is left handed threads for lugs. The top of them is stamped with an L
for rear springs you better be able to lift and carry about 90 lbs to move em about and somewhat safely slide them off.
When i took mine off i found it easier to remove the front shackle so its only being held by the big pivot shaft, then spray with liquid wrench and rock it back and forth (granted the rear clam is removed and axle is out of the way). then should slide off. Usually the spring pivot shaft thats riveted to the frame is worn because of lack of grease on the brass bushing.
Disassembling the leafs themselves its pretty straight forward, there isnt much tension at all when their fully together so not much to worry about. They might spring a tiny bit but wont send it rocketing around.
that pin is usually worn. vendors sell new ones for about $21 a pop along with the new bushings (not too cheap tho)
yea i will agree the AA is about 3x beefier parts...Better get a nice impact 6-point socket set and invest in PB blaster or liquid wrench. Along with various "torque multipliers" slid over breaker bars....
So moral of all this if you cant lift 90+ lbs and be able to support this at weird angles (dont want to damage the threads on that pivot shaft) definitely get help. They are a weird object to carry as it always wants to flip upside down (so dont leave them sitting upright in the garage - lay em flat as they can fall over and smash toes and fingers)
For those of you who need a size comparison that socket rachet and socket are all 1/2 drive... bottom leaf is a good 2 feet long and about 1/4" thick.
for rear springs you better be able to lift and carry about 90 lbs to move em about and somewhat safely slide them off.
When i took mine off i found it easier to remove the front shackle so its only being held by the big pivot shaft, then spray with liquid wrench and rock it back and forth (granted the rear clam is removed and axle is out of the way). then should slide off. Usually the spring pivot shaft thats riveted to the frame is worn because of lack of grease on the brass bushing.
Disassembling the leafs themselves its pretty straight forward, there isnt much tension at all when their fully together so not much to worry about. They might spring a tiny bit but wont send it rocketing around.
that pin is usually worn. vendors sell new ones for about $21 a pop along with the new bushings (not too cheap tho)
yea i will agree the AA is about 3x beefier parts...Better get a nice impact 6-point socket set and invest in PB blaster or liquid wrench. Along with various "torque multipliers" slid over breaker bars....
So moral of all this if you cant lift 90+ lbs and be able to support this at weird angles (dont want to damage the threads on that pivot shaft) definitely get help. They are a weird object to carry as it always wants to flip upside down (so dont leave them sitting upright in the garage - lay em flat as they can fall over and smash toes and fingers)
For those of you who need a size comparison that socket rachet and socket are all 1/2 drive... bottom leaf is a good 2 feet long and about 1/4" thick.