basic engine questions

K

kenny in k'zoo

Junior Member
I'm new at model A and flathead engines so I have some questions.
Will hot tanking the block destroy the babbit bearings?
Is there supposed to be an opening between the valve chamber and the timing gear area? How big?

Thanks, Kenny
 
Yes to both questions. (Most hot tank solutions are caustic...and will damage babbitt.) You should ask the shop with the cleaning tank if it is safe...if they are not sure...be very careful...research their product before trying. The solution I use will damage babbitt along with anything made of aluminum.

The opening you question is quite large as it allows some oil to pass out the valve chamber to lube the timing gear. If you study the area to the front of the front oil dam, near the valve chamber cover, you will find the delivery opening for the oil pump circuit. Some of the delivered oil will splash over the base of the opening to the timing gears. Size about 1.5" x 1.5"....I’m away from my shop but that is pretty close.

The opening looks kind of suspicious...kind of like something is missing...but it is normal.
Good Day!
 
Last edited:
Thanks Dave, that opening kind of looks like a picture window blown out by a tornado, and I was afraid that the hot tank would destroy the bearings.
I'll ask the shop what they use.

Thanks again,Kenny
 
If you have good babbit to save, then I'd clean the block with diesel and a wire brush. I'd then clean off the residue with a syphon gun and gas. I have cleaned blocks with gas and a stiff parts cleaning brush, but you have to be carefull with gas, as one spark can start a fire. A friend of my neighbor was cleaning up his Caterpillar with gas. When he bent over a wrench fell out of his shirt pocket, made a spark, and burned up the dozer.
 
Tom,

I agree completely. Diesel is an effective replacement for using gas. It doesn't ignite as easily, and acts as a very good cleanser. NEVER use a steel wire ANYTHING with gas; use brass brushes. Brass brushes don't spark like steel. Trips to the ER/burn unit/intensive care are very expensive and painful...it's much cheaper/safer to buy a $.50 brush.
 
Before you worry too much about your babbitt take a look at it.

First, what color is it? Is it a whitish silver like tin or a dark grey like lead. Can you easily scratch it, especially with your fingernail. If it is a darker color then it is may be lead and not worth saving. If it is soft it is lead and not worth saving.

Go to the edge of the babbitt and press on it. If oil squeezes out or you see movement of the babbitt then it was not peened properly and is not good. Inspect closer for faults. If your intend on driving the car you probably do not want to use it.

I recommend that you get some stiff wire, screwdrivers and an air hose to scrap as good as you can the walls of the water passages. Turn the block in all sorts of directions and upside down to get rid of all rust scale manually. This is important for improved cooling and is cheap and easy to do. You might be surprise at what comes out.

Some quick thoughts.

There is a lot to a proper evaluation of the engine. But then I get into precision measuring of everything and full inspection for cracks and such.
What you really need to do is very dependent on your budget and intentions. Clearly a engine for a 30 mile a year car is different then the guy running the car like a factory built car (55+MPH all over the place) and keeping it stock.
 
I plan to drive it a lot as a replacement for my big Harley. I do plan on a total rebuild, just haven't found someone local to handle the Babbitt yet. I wanted to have the block hot tanked so it's clean enough to measure and Magnavox.
I will definitely check the bearings for color and soft spots,and I'll report back.
 
I plan to drive it a lot. Hot tank in prep for precision measurements and magnaflux.
I'll check the bearings for color and softness, then report back.

Thanks, Kenny
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top