Riveter in NJ?
- Thread starter jerseyboy
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jerseyboy
Well-known member
Pete,
Why don't we get together and do each others? No, this is not a come on.
Keep V-8ing and 4-banging!
PeteVS
Well-known member
What do you have to rivet in place? From what I've seen in the video, it looks like a two man job in order to get the rivet out of the heat source, into the hole, set and headed while it's still hot. I have an A frame that I cut off the last 4". I have to rivet those pieces to the rear crossmember, get that assembly welded to the rails and then rivet in the front and center crossmembers.
yachtsmanbill
Well-known member
Do yerself a favor, when you have the rivet almost WHITE HOT, slip it in the hole and its gonna cool almost (unworkable) immediately. Make a rig to hold a decent sized brazing tip idling while youre getting it in place. Then heat the rivet and the frame, concentrating on the rivet. The cold frame will want to suck the heat out of the rivet.
In the "HOT" state, youll have about 5 seconds to work with it. You don't need the frame to turn blue, just preheat it to chase out the cold.
Personally, Id have the cold rivet installed and bucked up tight, then heat the "header" end to REALLY hot. The whole advantage to riveting is to get the body to expand in the hole and keep everything tight. Itll probably go without saying, but have you tried to drive out an old one yet? Theyre in there pretty tight. ws
My entire front and back lowering job was done with grade 8 bolts, tightened with air and locktited... Never weld on the frame rails if you can absolutely avoid it!
In the "HOT" state, youll have about 5 seconds to work with it. You don't need the frame to turn blue, just preheat it to chase out the cold.
Personally, Id have the cold rivet installed and bucked up tight, then heat the "header" end to REALLY hot. The whole advantage to riveting is to get the body to expand in the hole and keep everything tight. Itll probably go without saying, but have you tried to drive out an old one yet? Theyre in there pretty tight. ws
My entire front and back lowering job was done with grade 8 bolts, tightened with air and locktited... Never weld on the frame rails if you can absolutely avoid it!
yachtsmanbill
Well-known member
Steve Jelf can give you some pointers on that. Its kinda time consuming yet Ford made millions at a time. ws
Steve Jelf
Well-known member
Bill is right, it's easier to heat the rivet in the hole. In theory you can do the job yourself, but in the real world it's easiest to have one guy hold the torch the the other guy mash the rivet. Big Flats Rivet Company can supply the rivets and the tools. For the front cross member you need 1/4" and 5/16". Before you start riveting, put everything together loosely with bolts. Once all the bolts are in, tighten them. Now that you know everything fits together, remove the bolts holding the cross member and the braces to the frame, but leave the cross member and the braces bolted together. You can rivet them off the frame before installing them. Remove one bolt and install a rivet in its place. When the cross member and the braces are riveted together, you can then rivet them into the frame. If you're replacing a cross member that was improperly installed with bolts years ago, you may find some of the holes "wallered out" too big for the rivets. I had to fill some holes in the braces and redrill them the right size.
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Steve Jelf
Well-known member
yachtsmanbill
Well-known member
One time you have somebody helping you and he tries to heat the wrong head! ws
(they wouldnt get that one across the hall in Special Ed!)
(they wouldnt get that one across the hall in Special Ed!)
PeteVS
Well-known member
Question: If you have rivets that are too long, what's the best way to shorten them? I remember reading not to use a cutoff wheel because the heat will alter the temper making them harder to head. I think that they're supposed to stick out 1-1/2 diameters on the end that's being headed.
PeteVS
Well-known member
I'll have to check, but Big Flats has kits for the individual cross-members on an A and the same kit should also apply to a '32.
jerseyboy
Well-known member
I was just reading an article that recommended using a hacksaw to take off the extra for the same reason.
Note number five in the Big Flats catalog page:
[FONT=Arial,Helvetica,Univers,Zurich BT,sans-serif][SIZE=-1](5. If a rivet is too long, cut it with a saw, if you grind it and quench it. It will harden and you won't be able to install it.)
[/SIZE][/FONT]
Keep V-8ing and 4-banging!
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Steve Jelf
Well-known member
Yep, a hacksaw works fine.
PeteVS
Well-known member
That's where I saw it! Thanks!!