Juice Brake Kit

R

Ross6860

Senior Member
My '36 came with a full juice brake conversion kit from Early V8 Garage. Not installed.

I've been driving the car as is, and other than some rattle from the brake rods (I think they may hit the exhaust pipes when going around curves and hitting bumps), I really don't think the mechanical brakes are all that bad.

Anyone use Early V8s Garage kits? Other kits or home builts?

I imagine an improvement in braking, but without changing (modernizing) tires and suspension is it really worth the effort?

Never blow a line with mechanical brakes;)

Your opinions are appreciated.
 
Using the floaters on my '35 mechanicals and they feel as good if not better than some '39 to '48 Ford hydraulic brake cars I have driven. It does seem like you need to keep after the adjustments more with these floaters installed. Maybe with improved braking it causes more wear on linings and drums.
I am not presently planning to convert to hydraulic brakes on my '35 but, if I ever did, I would use the Lincoln brakes.

Edit: this post was not meant to say anything negative about the Early V-8 Garage and their brake conversion kit offerings. If you prefer hydraulic brakes on your Early Ford, Richard Lacy and his EV-8 Garage offerings are an excellent choice.
 
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Ross....I had to make a choice as well.After re-assembling my '36 I found out what defensive driving was all about.The problem wasn't the braking system,it was me and my lack of knowledge.I screwed them up.If mechanicals are set up correctly,they work just fine.Needless to say,mine weren't. So,I installed a set of floaters (energizers) from C&G.They were under $60.Money well spent.Now the brakes are as well as, if not better than hydraulics.It can be done in an afternoon but adjusting takes a while.Flathead Ted sells a floater kit too and I've heard that they're easier to adjust.MHO Gene
 
We have three EV8 garage kits installed. One car, 28 Model A RPU on deuce rails with an overhead 4 Banger has 40 Ford brakes all around. Stops well. 32 fenderless roadster, 8BA on a basically stock 32 chassis Lincoln brakes in the front 40 brakes in the rear. Stops really well. Last car is a stock bodied 32 Tudor, 265 Chevy. Lincoln brakes all around. Stops really well as this is much heavier than the two open cars. All 3 are using the EV8 kit and with 6K plus miles combined we have no complaints.
 
Ross6860 said:
My '36 came with a full juice brake conversion kit from Early V8 Garage. Not installed.

I've been driving the car as is, and other than some rattle from the brake rods (I think they may hit the exhaust pipes when going around curves and hitting bumps), I really don't think the mechanical brakes are all that bad.

Anyone use Early V8s Garage kits? Other kits or home builts?

I imagine an improvement in braking, but without changing (modernizing) tires and suspension is it really worth the effort?

Never blow a line with mechanical brakes;)

Your opinions are appreciated.
Click to expand...

JM 35 Sedan said:
Using the floaters on my '35 mechanicals and they feel as good if not better than some '39 to '48 Ford hydraulic brake cars I have driven. It does seem like you need to keep after the adjustments more with these floaters installed. Maybe with improved braking it causes more wear on linings and drums.
I am not presently planning to convert to hydraulic brakes on my '35 but, if I ever did, I would use the Lincoln brakes.
Click to expand...

Willit Stop said:
Ross....I had to make a choice as well.After re-assembling my '36 I found out what defensive driving was all about.The problem wasn't the braking system,it was me and my lack of knowledge.I screwed them up.If mechanicals are set up correctly,they work just fine.Needless to say,mine weren't. So,I installed a set of floaters (energizers) from C&G.They were under $60.Money well spent.Now the brakes are as well as, if not better than hydraulics.It can be done in an afternoon but adjusting takes a while.Flathead Ted sells a floater kit too and I've heard that they're easier to adjust.MHO Gene
Click to expand...

Showing my ignorance here...

What the heck are "floaters"?

$60 is loose change working one these old babies, so if it's an improvement it has to be well worth it.

Any info you can share would be appreciated.
 
the 53 to 60s f-100 brakes work well and the parts are still available at most auto parts outlets (napa)etc.:D
 
I have the Early V-8 Garage brake line kit on
My 34 5 window and the fit like they had been
made by Henry in 1934! Can't say enough good
Things about Richard Lacy.
 
Ross-

I have one of each ('35, '36). The '35 has '47 hydraulics with a '55-'57 Ford vacuum booster. This car really understands the word "stop!" In many ways it as good as my two newer daily drivers. The '36 has mechanical brakes with floaters. At speeds under 45 and no panic involved the brakes do their job "somewhat."

For me, the problem with mechanical brakes is there are a lot of mechanical parts that must be in top condition. Any wear (even slight wear), in the system will compromise everything. As mention previously, adjustment is an on-going thing.

As it stands now, my winter project is a hydraulic conversion on the '36. I have an Early V8 Garage conversion kit which should facilitate things.

Tom
 
The f1/f100 brakes do work well, but only if you do not want to run wire wheels. You can only run 40-48 steels on these hubs and drums.

Ok you CAN run wires but the Thick wheel spacer/adaptor required is not desirable due to the increased kingpin offset and increased stress on wheelbearings.

For some reason Ford engineered the 40-48 hydraulics so they are compatible (with a little work) with the wires, so these are ideal for the hydraulic conversion.

Mart.
 
Ross6860 said:
Showing my ignorance here...

What the heck are "floaters"?

$60 is loose change working one these old babies, so if it's an improvement it has to be well worth it.

Any info you can share would be appreciated.
Click to expand...
Floaters or energizers replace the adjusting wedges and adjusting links.Basically,they are the same thing as adjusters on newer cars.They allow the shoes to float so equal pressure is applied to the drum from both shoes resulting in improved shoe to drum contact.A stock system works fine unless the leading shoe and trailing shoe are of unequal thickness.Then, the thicker shoe will contact first and the thinner one will have little effect.I hope this helps.
 
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