Deck Lid Handle Lock Cylinder Removal

You need the key......then you turn it 90 degrees and press the little pin down then pull the cylinder out.
No Key.....That's when the trouble starts.......I have never been able to "pick" them soooo....you may have to drill it out. The trunk locks are fairly common/available...if you know what it looks like. Call me and I'll try to help over the phone. 845 457 3546 Phil
 
You don't need the correct key, any key that will fit into the cylinder is OK, the key in this instance is being used as an extraction tool. As 32Phil says, turn cylinder 90 degrees and insert a piece of wire into the little hole, push down on the plunger at the bottom of the hole and extract the cylinder.

When using lubricant on the lock please don't use a liquid, use powdered Graphite, this way dirt and debris won't stick to the internal workings of your lock.
 
Fe26 said:
You don't need the correct key, any key that will fit into the cylinder is OK, the key in this instance is being used as an extraction tool. As 32Phil says, turn cylinder 90 degrees.
Click to expand...

You are going to have to tell the rest of us how to turn an incorrect key.
 
32phil said:
You need the key......then you turn it 90 degrees and press the little pin down then pull the cylinder out.
No Key.....That's when the trouble starts.......I have never been able to "pick" them soooo....you may have to drill it out. The trunk locks are fairly common/available...if you know what it looks like. Call me and I'll try to help over the phone. 845 457 3546 Phil
Click to expand...


What pin are you referring to? The only one that mine appears to have is the square brass pin that moves up and down as the key is turned but it doesn't seem to press in at all.
 
O'oops! I misread the year of the car I thought it was 1938, also the key need only be moved enough to tighten itself in the cylinder to promote a grip, then the cylinder may be withdrawn. As this lock is a 1948 I don't know if a plunger pin is in operation on this lock.
 
It has the plunger. I'm not sure on the 90 degrees, my memory says about 45, but don't make no nevermind...you just turn in small increments until you feel something springy in there with your paperclip.
As I recall the hole for the pin is very unlikely looking*, but is the only stray hole in the area. If you have trouble I have a good handle with cylinder indoors where I can find it and bring it to work/computer and I can then write up the process with all the bits in hand.

*I think it may be tucked in under the cylinder, behind the actual handle lever. It is not right in your face like early 1930's ones.
 
Last edited:
Unfortunately on the handles '41 - '48, the cylinder must have a working key to remove it conventionally (rotate key clockwise approximately 80 to 85 degrees and depress the detent pin at the top/front of the lock cylinder (you must insert a small L-shaped stiff wire or rod into the hole in body of the handle above the cylinder, and puss toward the turned key so that the pin will depress into the slot of the key). Then withdraw the whole cylinder with the key in the turned position. I am usually able to find a working key by sorting through/trying keys from my accumulation of couple thousand keys in my collection. Sometimes found in the last handful. Lacking a working key the last resort is drilling the cylinder out. Replacement cylinders are plentiful if you manage to extract it. And they can be repined to match your glove box lock. You may be able to find an old school locksmith that could pick and turn the cylinder to the desired extraction position and follow the above procedure to remove it.
 
Thanks to all for the help. It looks like I have an early repro handle/lock of some kind. Now I am on the hunt for a factory handle and lock cylinder.
 
OK...finally made it all the way to the basement and grabbed a handle with a key...FHC has it, the aperture in the handle is immediately above the cylinder. You can see the part that needs to be depressed if you have good light, and a paper clip with a short bit bent 90 degrees will engage it adequately. Good spot is a bit less than a quarter turn.
There are front and rear retainers on this model but they move as one.
Repro...look at top of cylinder, top here meaning top when trunk is latched. A Ford-Hurd type cylinder has a rectangular penthouse containing the ends of the tumbler stack protruding at top with matching slot in the handle. I believe repro handles in general have entirely round cylinder faces. Repro keys will be very simple, like cheap padlock stuff.
Ford keys are beyond at least my amateur grade picking, and they seem very precisely cut...I've never gotten a hit on a keyless cylinder with my little collection of 25 or so Ford keys, while on 1960's stuff I know if I have 3 or 4 keys one of them will jiggle open the cheap locks with no need for a pick.
 
I think we can put this one to bed.....dullchrome sent me some pics of his handle and it appears to be aftermarket of some kind without the usual access hole. As far as "picking" a Hurd lock I have never been able to do that, nor have I found a 100 year old locksmith who could. Maybe someone is out there who can but I never met them. I'm sure someone will reply with a "pickin" story, I just hope they post a contact name and phone number.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top