Babbitting service

[Wisconsinjimmy]

Mr. W. J., What is the Black thing on your two pictures at the bottom of your pictures that makes it look like the side of the cap is missing?

I see in one of the catalogs rods are available with new Babbitt what needs to be done to get them ready to put on a crankshaft?

 

[Wisconsinjimmy]

My post got lost in cyber land, the pic of the caps has a shadow cast over them if you look close you can see the bearing edge.

 

[Dave in MN]

The crankshaft rod journals need to be ground first and then the proper babbitt rods ordered to fit. If you are going to go with inserts for the mains, both the main journals and the rod journals are ground at the same time.

 

[PC/SR]

The oil grooves are too deep, but that is not fatal. See Kohnke's pics for how they should be done.
I wonder about the little missing chips in the lower pic if that is not the start of a crack/separation, but maybe not.
The shims are between the rod and cap in Kohnke's pics. They are shown in the lower left corner of his last pic.
New rods, whether from a catalog, or anywhere else, have to fit the crankshaft. You need to measure the journals, and get rods that fit. Clearance is .015". Since you have already talked to a babbitt guy, I would show him your rods and talk to him some more.
How do the mains look?

 

[AlfinCT]

What is the spray method of babbitting? What are it's asvantages? Can it be used to build up worn babbitt and save stripping the old babbitt out?

 

[Kohnke Rebabbitting]

Looks like a shadow from the lip of the drawer or toolbox that the rod cap is propped up in. Quite the optical illusion!

Thanks, Herm.

 

[colin1928]

The oil grooves are too deep, but that is not fatal. See Kohnke's pics for how they should be done.
I wonder about the little missing chips in the lower pic if that is not the start of a crack/separation, but maybe not.
The shims are between the rod and cap in Kohnke's pics. They are shown in the lower left corner of his last pic.
New rods, whether from a catalog, or anywhere else, have to fit the crankshaft. You need to measure the journals, and get rods that fit. Clearance is .015". Since you have already talked to a babbitt guy, I would show him your rods and talk to him some more.
How do the mains look?

Clearance is .0015

 

[gilitos]

Also the dippers face the hole on each side of the rod that is clostest to the part line.

Hey, Herm, those rods in post #16 look really familiar! They powered me to work this morning and the motor runs fabulous. Thanks for a great job.

 

[Wisconsinjimmy]

After some serious thought and discussion with my bride we are going to sell the car, this model a thing is just way over my check book. Again I thank all of you for your help.
Jim

 

[PC/SR]

"Clearance is .0015"

Colin--Thank You. I was wonderin' what that noise was.

 

[ABento]

When the OP said babbiting my little mind whet directly to inserts, as I've been in discussion about making some new bearings for White engines, and Rod had said he was now spraying babbit on the shells, I know nothing other than he says its been working real well.

 

[Kohnke Rebabbitting]

Hey, Herm, those rods in post #16 look really familiar! They powered me to work this morning and the motor runs fabulous. Thanks for a great job.

Well, what a coincidence Giles, Happy Motoring. Herm.

 

[Kohnke Rebabbitting]

Spraying Babbitt.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zU2JeURtdZ4

 

[tbirdtbird]

sure is beautiful workmanship, Herm...

 

[George Miller]

Well, what a coincidence Giles, Happy Motoring. Herm.

Nice locking job Herm

 

[Duffy1]

Are you suppose to take the notch in the babbit all the way to the edge of the babbit ?

 

[Ross/Kzoo]

Is spraying babbitt a form of "metallizing"?

 

[tbirdtbird]

"Are you suppose to take the notch in the babbit all the way to the edge of the babbit ?"

I don't think so, else the oil will not stay in the bearing space, it will just leak out;
but I wish Herm would address this.

 

[Kohnke Rebabbitting]

Are you suppose to take the notch in the babbit all the way to the edge of the babbit ?

I am not sure what you call the notch, the oil groove, or the oil well, but in any case that is the way it should be.

The oil well which is the oil gully, is on the part line, and the diagonal groove is the oil spreader groove. That groove is fed from the oil wells and should be on the far ends of each oil well, and no the oil wells do not go clear to the ends of the bearings and yes the oil would run out. They should stop about a 1/4, to 3/8's from both ends.

If you don't have the oil groove out to the ends of the oil wells, the two ends of the crank bearing does not get wiped with oil like having a cap or block with No oil grooves in that area.

These two Diagrams I hope show where the oil would wipe, and where it would not. The first one is right, the second one is wrong. The X's are where you would not get a continuous oil wipe.



Thanks Herm.

 

[Kohnke Rebabbitting]

"Are you suppose to take the notch in the babbit all the way to the edge of the babbit ?"

I don't think so, else the oil will not stay in the bearing space, it will just leak out;
but I wish Herm would address this.

Well Mr. T Bird, I dug around and found two wore out rear main caps that are Ford factory.

The first one is the model "A" , worn, but you can plainly see the oil well, and spreader groove. Notice where they are laided.

Now the second cap a Ford Factory Model "B" cap, with the oil wells and oil spreader groove showen where they were put. the short groove that is in the middle is not factory, as somebody really thought they were going to cause that rear main to stop leaking. That kind of stuff never works.

So when you any time move the ends of the oil spreader groove in, you are taking oil away from the area you could have oiled.

When the Running clearance gets to great, that is what makes the oil run out a bearing.

Thanks, Herm.