Shock links

I just put a new set of reprops on my 1930 CCPU and they work great. I don't have a set of originals to compare them to, but they do work. Got them from Snyders.
 
The repro links are ok. If the shock arm balls or the shock balls on the front perches or rear end housings are worn, the original tube type links will fall off and be lost. I use the dog bone links, this was Fords better idea on the V8 cars. My cars are not for national judgeing. With dog bone links , the rubber ball covers will need replacement from time to time but you will never have the link fall off.
 
I just installed re-built Houdaille shocks on Henrietta and used reproduction original-type links I bought from one of the part houses. What Purdy says about the shock balls is true. It is possible to replace worn ones, but may be easier to use dog-bones if you don't care about judging standards. If you go with original links you'll probably have to rebuild them anyway using reproduction spacers, springs, ball seats, zerks, etc so the only original part you'd have would be the link housing. I installed the teflon ball seats just to see how they hold up. You might also search the Forum for other threads on shocks... there are many. Let us know what you decide.

Mike
 
Purdy Swoft said:
The repro links are ok. If the shock arm balls or the shock balls on the front perches or rear end housings are worn, the original tube type links will fall off and be lost. I use the dog bone links, this was Fords better idea on the V8 cars. My cars are not for national judgeing. With dog bone links , the rubber ball covers will need replacement from time to time but you will never have the link fall off.
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Two questions:

1. I am going to install new dog-bone links. Are you supposed to put any lubricant inside and around the rubber ball covers?

2. I got the links from Snyder's and they have some kind of a black finish on them, but the arms, which I also got from Snyder's are not painted. Does anyone know whether or not the original arms had paint on them - if so, I want to paint them before I install them.

Thanks,
 
On this subject, awaiting my 4 shocks from Bill Stipe, the ball joint on my frame where the links attach are painted, they appear in good shape but when I attach the links I should remove the paint I'd think... anything else one might do to prep the ball joint?
 
Reproduction links will work just fine if you can't obtain originals. The reproduction links that I have seen through the years look different than originals, and aren't as hefty..
 
I bought reproductions because they were available. Got them from Snyders or Brattons.
They were nothing like originals. Once again disapointed in reproduction parts. I threw them in a box and got some originals. The originals fit around the rubber balls and capture the balls all around unlike the repros.
I would look and wait to find originals.

Cal
 
I don't use any lubricant with the rubber balls on the dog bone shock links . Like some others have said oil can have a negative effect on rubber, after a while. The rubber seems to hold up well dry on my cars .The shock arms and links on mine are painted semi gloss-satin black. some may use gloss black .
 
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A and L Parts Specialties (860)693-0112 or 2620 (Connecticut) claims to have perfect reproductions that they had made. I have them and they seem to work just fine.
 
Thanks to all of you who replied to my questions. I am going to paint the shock arms and dog bone links with a spray can of Rustoleum Primer and then apply a top coat of Rustoleum Gloss Black.

It sounds like the rubber cushions in the dog bone links work fine with no lubricant at all, so I think I will just leave them dry.

I am now just waiting for my shocks from Robert Paul in Yoder, Colorado. I found out about Robert in another thread, and apparently he does a great job restoring shocks and has a number of happy customers. He is a little slow, but he says they are finally in the mail now and I am expecting them next week.
 
Elcastor said:
A and L Parts Specialties (860)693-0112 or 2620 (Connecticut) claims to have perfect reproductions that they had made. I have them and they seem to work just fine.
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I agree, A&L parts are very good. There is nothing wrong with original tube type shock links. The problem is that when the metal balls on the spring perch, rear axle housing or the shock arms are badly worn, the original style shock links will fall off and be lost. The dog bone links with rubber ball caps hold on better, don't have metal to metal contact and even if one end of the link slipped off the ball, the other end would hold and prevent the loss of the shock link. Not so with the original style links, when one end slips of the ball, spring tension is lost and the link falls off
 
Four Lazy C Boss said:
Thanks to all of you who replied to my questions. I am going to paint the shock arms and dog bone links with a spray can of Rustoleum Primer and then apply a top coat of Rustoleum Gloss Black.

It sounds like the rubber cushions in the dog bone links work fine with no lubricant at all, so I think I will just leave them dry.

I am now just waiting for my shocks from Robert Paul in Yoder, Colorado. I found out about Robert in another thread, and apparently he does a great job restoring shocks and has a number of happy customers. He is a little slow, but he says they are finally in the mail now and I am expecting them next week.
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+1 on Mr. Paul, wait wasn't too bad considering I had no cores to send him. Properly functioning shocks make a big difference!
 
some of the earlier shock links were just plain junk
heres two that were used
I have no idea how they worked ,as I cant even start to get the ball into the hole
they are the same size as model A ones,but the hole is much smaller
compare them to an original link
tom
 

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