What should I know about 36 coupe

H

Hgiljr

Member
Hello all... I am looking into buying a restored 36 Ford 5 window coupe. Always loved this model, never owned one. I have owned a restored a 29 Model A, I know both cars are very different, but share some basics. If anyone that has experience with the 36 and can share what I should look out for or know about this model car, I would greatly appreciate it. Thanks again...
 
The '36 is a popular model! Good luck with that! As you must know, the term 'restored' means different things to different poeple. The best advice I can give you is to take along a friend who is knowledgeable about the V8 era and the '36 in particular. Don't rely on your own expertise with Model A Fords, there are too many differences to compare the two. Others will offer details to check, but nothing can take the place of a friend who knows what to look for. One more piece of advice that is of great value, check the registration against the car itself. Too many cars don't match the number on the registration. Look for the number stamped on the top of the driver side frame near the steering box. The seller should be able to point to it for you.
 
Check the floors from the bottom up.
Jack up the rear of the car and pull on the rear wheels and check for extra play.
Jack up the front of the car and check the front wheels for extra play.
Check the brakes and adjust if necessary (not sure if mechanical brakes).
Check Radiator for leak stains.
Check water pumps for leaks.
Check engine for compression.
Ask for any service records (always a huge plus).
Check the electrical system visually

This is just some of the things off the top of my head, I'm sure more will be added.
GOOD LUCK !
H36
 
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You have been given good advice here. Make sure you are buying the best sheetmetal you can find. A car full of patch panels and bondo is not the way to go. In addition many of these cars have rumble seats. You need to determine if anyone will ever ride back there or not. If not I would recommend you buy a car with the trunk lid. Much easier for touring as you can easily retrieve your luggage. Getting luggage out of a rumble seat car is a huge pain.
 
3 more cents worth here, I would really look closely where the center cross rail comes back to meet the side rails in front of rear wheels. Notorious for rot from trapped debris and dirt over the years from 33 on.
 
Being unfamiliar with this car, can someone be so kind to post a picture of where the serial number is located? I know the complete number was stamped on top of the left frame rail forward of the dash (firewall) near the steering gear and crossmember rivets, but an image would be better to have a better understanding. Thanks
 
Look the car over with a camera in your hand. You'll be amazed what you see later on. Take many photos of all four corners underneath and from above/outside, well from everywhere, under then dash too! Post a few here and you'll get some more feedback.

The car, if original, should have a 6v positive ground system, a generator not alternator, mechanical brakes, one tail light if standard (painted windshield trim & grill) two tail lights if deluxe (chrome), a two barrel carb, and a helmet distributor, water pumps in the heads, kneeling shocks not tubes, no sway bars, wide five wheels with 6.00x16 bias tires, single exhaust.

Whether you get the car or not, the V8 Club '35-'36 restoration book is a great resource. Look around the earlyfordv8.org website.

Many other thoughts will come later.

-VT/JeffH
 
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Bob, You got me right between editing out that little mistake. I originally typed negative ground, but when I re-read my post I slapped my forehead!

I think I've learned if you edit in the first few minutes after posting, it doesn't say 'edited...' at the bottom.

-VT/Jeff
 
here's a link to MacVP's website giving info about serial numbers, etc.... http://www.vanpeltsales.com/FH_web/flathead_serialnumbers.htm .... and if original transmission, the same number is stamped on pad above the inspection window on trans. bellhousing, but that would mean taking trans. cover off, etc.....have you seen car yet and have questions about what you've seen??....couple on epay now.....good luck.....looking forward to seeing pics....Mike
 
Good morning everyone and thanks for all the info. Mike in AZ, I have only seen the car in pictures as it is about 7 hours away from me. So right now I am gathering all information, creating my check list so once I see the car I know what to look for. So all information being shared is greatly appreciated.

Also in looking at the link, it is in the same location as the 29 Model A I once owned. On the Model A, it was very hard to see. Hopefully on the 36 it's much easier.

Hector
 
Here is a picture of the engine I received today. What can you guys tell me about it?
 

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First thing I see is what appear to be aluminum foil balls crimped-around the fuel line from pump to carburetor, possibly indicating perceived (or not) "vapor-lock" symptoms. DD
 
Hgiljr said:
But from my readings, vapor lock was common with these fuel pumps. Am I correct in this? Thanks
Click to expand...

I guess that if one wanted to perpetuate this "can-o-worms" tale that vapor lock came built-into these old Fords from the factory as a "normal" accessory...well I ain't gonna re-open that already-opened can. DD
 

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I have a question for '36 experts. Is the center distance between the engine mounts on a '35 / '36 the same as '37 and later. The latter is 20 inches but I have heard that the '35 / '36 is 19 inches. Reason being if I was to use a '37 or later frame under a '36 body, the engine mounts would not line up. I've heard that '35 through '40 frames are much the same but now I would assume that the front cross member would be different.
 
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