crack in block / HELP

hello
jim rogers at dreamworks did the rebuild on my 1930 tudor motor and have had no problems with the motor i had him do a long block with a high compression head he is in ashville nc his web site is model-a-ford-4banger.com he will do the engine right he all so has inserted motors also give him a call he is a member here also that is how i found him and he has a quick turn around here is a photo of eng back in frame
kevin
1930 tudor
1923 model t
 

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I agree with Bill, I would not try to repair a cracked block and in particular a valve port crack. My engine builder said it is foolish to put money into a cracked block, that a repair will only last for a period of time and then the crack will show its ugly head again.

Just my opinion !!!

Ron
 
ed s. said:
The jury is in and the rebuilt short block with a high compression head is what I will be looking for in Hershey ..Their are a number of builders out there that offer this ... Can anyone recommend a good one ? Thanks , Ed
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Make sure you ask if the block was crack free or has cracks that are repaired or sealed?
 
Ed, Metal stitch the block, sleeve the cylinder, and insert a new valve seat. I had this same work done on my own block by J&M above, and the engine runs like a dream with thousands of miles on it. Half-measures will inevitably fail... Good Luck!
 
Chris in CT said:
Ed, Metal stitch the block, sleeve the cylinder, and insert a new valve seat. I had this same work done on my own block by J&M above, and the engine runs like a dream with thousands of miles on it. Half-measures will inevitably fail... Good Luck!
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Yes that is the way to go. I have 19,000 miles on my engine since I put in two sleeves two valve seats and stitch the block. Years ago in my Dads garage we did many that way. If done right they will last as long as the engine.
 
Ron in Quincy said:
I agree with Bill, I would not try to repair a cracked block and in particular a valve port crack. My engine builder said it is foolish to put money into a cracked block, that a repair will only last for a period of time and then the crack will show its ugly head again.

Just my opinion !!!

Ron
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Nonsense. Your builder has selfish motives. A job for a complete new engine, will be far more profitable than the repair, or, he just doesn't like doing those repairs, or, he is not skilled in doing them. The repairs properly done will last forever.
 
I once stitched a cracked Super 8 Packard block with interlocking, tapered, threaded pins, even some in the cylinder walls. It ran good for 10 more years. I've also pinned a few Model A blocks with good results. The hard part is drilling that first hole.
 
Hi Ed: this is just another 2 cents worth, but in time - all the 2 cent offerings will add up! Look up Lock-N-Stitch on the internet and do some research about them. I have watched them in person, been to their promotional booth at the Hot Rod restoration show, and have had them stitch a block for me too; I know others that have used them also and everyone has found favor with their process.
 
I guess the jury is 50/50 on crack repairs.
Here in the Northeast about 99% of the blocks and heads/flywheel housings are cracked and need repairs.

The cracks are repaired by using threaded tapered screws and pins.

Finding a crack free Model A block of 82-85 years old is like winning the lottery.

Below are some pictures of typical crack repairs we do on Model A engines.

The last two pictures are of a Seagrave fire engine cylinder head that was brazed.
The brazing caused the iron to crack on either side so we removed the braze,cut out the damage made a piece and stitched back in.

There are only so many engines left why not fix the cracks.?
http://www.jandm-machine.com/metalStitching.html
 

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J and M Machine said:
I guess the jury is 50/50 on crack repairs.
Here in the Northeast about 99% of the blocks and heads/flywheel housings are cracked and need repairs.

The cracks are repaired by using threaded tapered screws and pins.

Finding a crack free Model A block of 82-85 years old is like winning the lottery.

Below are some pictures of typical crack repairs we do on Model A engines.

The last two pictures are of a Seagrave fire engine cylinder head that was brazed.
The brazing caused the iron to crack on either side so we removed the braze,cut out the damage made a piece and stitched back in.

There are only so many engines left why not fix the cracks.?
http://www.jandm-machine.com/metalStitching.html
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This has been my experience... two of my three blocks are cracked (deck between exhaust seats and cylinder bores), not from winter freeze-ups...

Uncracked blocks may have been plentiful and cheap 10-20 years ago ( or more), but that no longer seems to be the case.

Lock'n'Stitch developed their process for castings that were too large or unique for "scrap & replace" to be an option. It also works for auto engines.
 
Gentlemen , Whats your preference Babbitt or insert bearings ? Spent the day talking to engine rebuilders across the country of which ALL were very knowledgeable ..


Never worked so hard in my real job !!! Ed
 
Russ , This is my first " A " .. Right now I am actively seeking a rebuilt short or long block and have discussed this with a number of rebuilders.. They have offered babbitt & bearings ... I am leaning towards babbitt but just wanted the input of others besides the builders themselves .. I will also be installing a Berg HD radiator ... Depending on which way I go the SB & radiator will cost around $5000. , and the LB about $7000. with me doing the install .... Ed
 
I would take the chance and spend less than $500 to stitch and lock, valve seat and sleeve the one cylinder back to your present piston size.

Re-core your radiator, install a Snyder 5.5 head and save those thousands to go on tours with your new Model A friends.

Check with some big truck shops. They stich and lock every day with excellent results.

Richard
Anaheim CA
 
Ok, lets look at this with open eyes. If the engine is ready for a rebuild, I suggest finding a block and rebuild an uncracked block. A repair will be around 500$ + any other parts replaced, an uncracked block is about 350$ give or take. If the engine does not need rebuilding or is a numbers matched motor, it will still need pistons and rings and boring to be safe if all other components are reused. Which way would you go?


BTW, successful repairs can and most often will outlast the rest of the block.
 
ed s. said:
Russ , This is my first " A " .. Right now I am actively seeking a rebuilt short or long block and have discussed this with a number of rebuilders.. They have offered babbitt & bearings ... I am leaning towards babbitt but just wanted the input of others besides the builders themselves .. I will also be installing a Berg HD radiator ... Depending on which way I go the SB & radiator will cost around $5000. , and the LB about $7000. with me doing the install .... Ed
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Price sounds a little high I paid about $4000 delivered to my home for a complete long block, with a different block as my my cracked and a high compression.
see link below
http://www.antiqueenginerebuilding.com/MODELA.html
 
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