Help, Rear Brake Drum Removal

I worked for hours on my 32 bb including heat. What worked for me was to install the puller and sprayed CRC where ever I could around the axle and hub, I suppose most any penetrant would work. Left it in the air with the puller as tight as I could safely make it, then went to bed. Next more penetrant and more *** on the puller. Next day went out and just barely tapped the puller and bang. Took a couple days, but nothing was damaged.
 
sonny said:
I worked for hours on my 32 bb including heat. What worked for me was to install the puller and sprayed CRC where ever I could around the axle and hub, I suppose most any penetrant would work. Left it in the air with the puller as tight as I could safely make it, then went to bed. Next more penetrant and more *** on the puller. Next day went out and just barely tapped the puller and bang. Took a couple days, but nothing was damaged.
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Sonny,

This is the direction I am going to try until I can get the KR Wilson style puller. I plan on re-clocking the current puller I have. I'm not sure if this puller is placing equal pressure.

Thanks,Norm
 
Here is an old post on this subject. Not sure if you have already seen this or not. I posted pictures of a puller I made from scrap steel I already had in my shop. Looks crude, not real pretty, but works great and the price was right. Has never failed to remove an early Ford rear drum for me.

http://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=104260&highlight=rear+drum+hub+pullers

PS...that 3/4" electric impact wrench is used to pull the really tight ones.
 
johnny said:
I suggest jacking the other wheel of the floor and then thump the end of the puller
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There's merit to this suggestion as well...and one I forgot about.

I have a '32 Dodge PU with tapered axles as well, the book for it talked about a "filled nut" so to speak that you would screw on and bottom tightly to the axle shaft and give it a solid rap with a sledge hammer...with opposite side in the air.
 
Well I ordered the KR Wilson reproduction from Winfield. Wow:eek:, $$$$$, but from the comments so far, I trust it will be worth it!:D
 
I have used both the wilson puller and the one you have and I like the one you have better. Keep the outer bar perpendicular to the axle. Keep the nut on the axle. Tighten it up and let it set overnight and resnug bolts in the morning. Stand with your rear against the fender pushing back and give a sharp rap with your medium hammer on the flat bar. If it does not come loose put penetrating oil on and try again in the next morning.
 
I destroyed the puller that I was using in my first post. I bent the retaining ring that the halves bolt to.

I am waiting on the KR Wilson style puller that I have ordered. I hope that this puller will do the job.
 
"it talked about a "filled nut"...commonly called a "Knocker", Ford 5/8 ones are available from all the repro places. I'm scared of them...but many use them successfully.
 
Van Pelt Sales (on here the Ford Barn)rents the KR puller. I rented mine from them a few months ago. Worth the price!!

Of course if you plan on removing your drums on a regular basis, I guess it's worth purchasing one.

Rich O.
 
I received my new KR Wilson style rear hub puller from Winfield Tooling. Installed the tool on the left hand hub and it worked as advertised, the hub popped right off. Now the right hand hub is a different story. This hub is still stuck.

I cut off a plastic bottle top that was coned shape to soak the axel with penetrating oil. I let this sit overnight and tried to remove the hub this morning. No luck. I added heat to the hub, and still no luck. I used an impact to install the hub remover and have used a hammer on the tool bolt to shock the press fit. IT IS STUCK!!!:mad:

I have reinstalled the bottle cap with penetrating oil and will let this soak until the weekend and will try it again.
 

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I can't add anything, but at least one of them is off. A previous poster said to leave the puller on with pressure on. Be patient, it will come off. That is tighter than any I have encountered, but I think you will need some sort of bar attached to the wheel studs to stop the hub from turning, and keep torquing that puller up. Leave for a while and keep going back and tighten it a bit more. Eventually it will bust the taper loose.

If the car is drivable (with care, obviously) it may be possible to install a thin nut under the puller axle protector and drive the car with the puller attached (I don't know if that would practical in your location) some hard cornering towards the side opposite the stuck hub might be enough to get it free. Obviously, other than the cornering, the car must be driven gently, as once it comes free, you will be driving on the key. If does break free, you could remove the puller and retorque the hub to a low figure just to get home. Busting it loose the second time from the lower torque figure will be easy by comparison.

I've never done the above, I'm just thinking out loud what would I try if it were me.

The hub will make a loud bang when it does come off so you will know when it has happened.

Mart.
 
Like I mentioned before, just be patient. Try to get as much penetrant as possible and keep tightening the puller. It might take several days but if your there when it pops it will probably scare the hell out of you. My 32bb sounded like a shot gun blast. Good luck.
 
I can't see penetrating oil/lube...helping much on a tapered press fit.

Question..when you say "heated it up"...with what did you heat it with, and for how long?

I/e a propane bottle torch isn't going to do it (IMO), you need to get an O/A and put the fear of ....in it.

You need to concentrate the heat around the center of the drum...that's where the thickest material is at...and you need to constantly be rolling the heat all over that area, not just in one or two spots.

Trust be, unless the pin sheared and the axle/drume is galled together...heat (correct heat) will work:)
 
NormC said:
I am in need of some assistance with the removal of the rear brake drums on my 36 Pickup. I am unable to remove the drums.:mad: I have removed the axel nut and washer. Question, Do I need to remove the keyed washer that is inside of the drum to remove the drum? I’m not sure how this washer is installed, from the outside or from the back of the drum. Attached is a picture of the removal tool I am using. I have tried all of the “Tricks of the Trade” that have been offered by the “Barners”, heat, loosen nut and driving. Any suggestions?:rolleyes: Thanks, Norm:)
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The puller I use is the same as the one you pictured. The way I get the stubborn ones off is to tighten the pulling bolts as much as possible. Keep the side you are trying to remove on the ground. Jack up the other side. Hit the cross bar of the puller with a heavy hammer. I've been able to remove them every time this way.
 
Under the heavy mounting nut and washer is a fiber packing washer that gets crushed into the end of the axle taper and brake drum hub. This packing prevents water from entering the end of the axle. use a pick and remove the washers before soaking . You should be able to see the end of the square recess for the axle key way both on the drum and the axle. Are they both aligned? Has the axle key broken and the drum turned on the axle taper?
 
NormC said:
I am in need of some assistance with the removal of the rear brake drums on my 36 Pickup. I am unable to remove the drums.:mad: I have removed the axel nut and washer. Question, Do I need to remove the keyed washer that is inside of the drum to remove the drum? I’m not sure how this washer is installed, from the outside or from the back of the drum. Attached is a picture of the removal tool I am using. I have tried all of the “Tricks of the Trade” that have been offered by the “Barners”, heat, loosen nut and driving. Any suggestions?:rolleyes: Thanks, Norm:)
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Did you back the barke shoes
 
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