Wax in thread Trick ???

BILL WZOREK

BILL WZOREK

Well-known member
Trying to use this way to remove rusted Part.
How is best way, (1)Heat warm enough so wax will melt. then try to
un-turn when warm, (2)warm wax / cool off in water fast then try to un-turn
(3) warm wax then let cool off naturally then un-turn


I know wax ON wax OFF
 
BILL WZOREK said:
Trying to use this way to remove rusted Part.
How is best way, (1)Heat warm enough so wax will melt. then try to
un-turn when warm, (2)warm wax / cool off in water fast then try to un-turn
(3) warm wax then let cool off naturally then un-turn


I know wax ON wax OFF
Click to expand...

Be sure to use paraffin wax, not bees wax.
 
Thats 1 good idea!

I used A candle ( Yankee candle ) I don't know if that is Paraffin wax or hot.
My daughter workes there & said that the " wax " comes in pellets and is pressed into a candle not melted as one would think.
 
I have used the wax method with good results when nothing else worked. I heat the part and melt the wax on it. I let it cool and then reheat it and the heat will draw the wax toward the heat. If possible, heat the opposite end to draw the wax into the part.
 
John :

I Don't Know; It's apart but I had help with 8' pipe on a 4' handled 3/4" drive ratchet My friend pulling Quite hard and me reheating Red hot. It came apart so what of the previous made it work I don't know.
When Lee goes shopping this week I will have her pick up some paraffin wax.I think that is what my Mom use to use to seal off the canning Jars.
And if I am lucky I will not have a reason to try it out.

Old Henry:

I have used that mixture in another application maybe I was to impatient but it did not work as I expected.
 
On the advice of someone here, I think it was Bruce, I tried the candle wax 'trick' on some very rusted, and thoroughly stuck, flathead drain plugs. Worked like a charm. As Bruce said, practically unscrewed themselves. The snake oils, including acetone and MMO or trans fluid have there place, but they didn't hold a candle (sorry) to the wax 'trick'. I think where the wax trick really demonstrated its usefulness, is on those block plugs (galley plugs), where they are usually stuck to break every tool known to man. JMO
 
Bill, I had an idea that might work well along with Vic's suggestion. The next time you need to take something rusted apart, light the candle as Vic said, so you can see what you're doing, then just use a pencil to draw the part out. ;) :D
 
Anything that will work its way between parts will work when using heat. Paraffin is good for the higher temps but believe it or not water will actually work too. You don't usually have to heat as high as a red color in the metal. Anything above the boiling point of water will work but not over 275 to 300 degrees F. Some metals will lose their heat treat (if they have any) over that temp. I use this method to break down Loctite products when removing bearing races from transmission components. When you see the water boil out from between the parts you know the job is done. The heating and rapid cooling is what breaks the bond. Sometimes it takes several heating/cooling cycles to get it done.

If parts have galled between each other due to internal corrosion or cross threading then I doubt if any good results can be had from any particular method.
 
Bill,
I once asked you how in the world you loosened the rusty parts on those old Ford shocks. Your reply was a simple one. "I could tell you but then I would have to kill you." I never asked again. :rolleyes:
 
rotorwrench said:
Anything that will work its way between parts will work when using heat. Paraffin is good for the higher temps but believe it or not water will actually work too. You don't usually have to heat as high as a red color in the metal. Anything above the boiling point of water will work but not over 275 to 300 degrees F. Some metals will lose their heat treat (if they have any) over that temp. I use this method to break down Loctite products when removing bearing races from transmission components. When you see the water boil out from between the parts you know the job is done. The heating and rapid cooling is what breaks the bond. Sometimes it takes several heating/cooling cycles to get it done.

If parts have galled between each other due to internal corrosion or cross threading then I doubt if any good results can be had from any particular method.
Click to expand...

Thermal expansion and contraction causes the bonds of the corrosion to break.
 
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