Sheared axle key?

Patrick L. said:
Geez, thats too bad. I was thinking it would just be the key. Now your hands are going to get even dirtier.
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I was hoping as easy as it let loose, literally just leaving a stop light.

When the rough railroad tracks were mentioned I remembered we had a section of a main highway that would do a similar thing until they ground down the heaves in the road. My guess is it was a result of that over the last year.
 
The LH axle shaft is fairly easy to change.No need to pull the rear end.Spread the rear spring and remove LH shackle .Have RE just clear of the floor & block up banjo & RH axle hsg.Remove front radius rod bolt & LH banjo bolts.Remove RH hub.Then pull off LH axle hsg & radius rod as a unit. Axle & diff assy can then be pulled out.Take note of thickness of LH banjo gaskets. Make sure that both 1/2,s of diff case have line - up marks so it will go back together the correct way.Good idea to have jack stands under frame as well.
 
29ModelA said:
I was REALLY hoping this is not what happened, but it was. :( It couldn't have been the $2 fix... Jacked up the car, the wheel was loose, grabbed it and it fell off with a slight tug



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There is a way to replace the broken axle without removing the rear axle housing assembly from the car. This is often done when the task is just to get the car back on the road. Were it mine I would remove the entire rear axle assembly from the car and completely overhaul it.

If you plan to do that go to www.ocmafc.com and on the left menu scroll to "tech articles" and click. It will bring up a new menu. At the top is my name, click on it and it will bring up a list of articles. Scroll to the one on rear axle differential overhaul. You are welcome to download it and print it out.

If you want to just replace the axle you can spread the spring and remove just the left axle housing and then pull the axle assembly out from the left side. The axle assembly includes both axles and the carrier and ring gear. Take the assembly to a work bench and separate the carrier halves and replace the broken axle. Measure the thickness of the gasket(s) on the left axle housing and replace them with the same thickness to preserve the carrier pre-load (if one is actually still there).

Either way you approach this, first obtain a proper spring spreader. If you pull the entire rear axle assembly, leave the spring under the car, do not pull the rear out with the spring still attached as it is not a safe thing to do.


Good luck with your project.

Tom Endy
 
Mitch//pa said:
ouch::: that there sucks
looks like you got your work cut out for you. while your at it switch the e-brake pins around so the cotters face out
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The cotter pins are supposed to face inboard. The clevis pins have a very thin head on them for a purpose. When installed backwards as in your photo the ends of the clevis pins and the cotter pins can scrape on the inside of the brake drum. The fellow with the broken axle has them installed correctly.

Tom Endy
 
Tom Endy said:
There is a way to replace the broken axle without removing the rear axle housing assembly from the car. This is often done when the task is just to get the car back on the road. Were it mine I would remove the entire rear axle assembly from the car and completely overhaul it.

If you plan to do that go to www.ocmafc.com and on the left menu scroll to "tech articles" and click. It will bring up a new menu. At the top is my name, click on it and it will bring up a list of articles. Scroll to the one on rear axle differential overhaul. You are welcome to download it and print it out.

If you want to just replace the axle you can spread the spring and remove just the left axle housing and then pull the axle assembly out from the left side. The axle assembly includes both axles and the carrier and ring gear. Take the assembly to a work bench and separate the carrier halves and replace the broken axle. Measure the thickness of the gasket(s) on the left axle housing and replace them with the same thickness to preserve the carrier pre-load (if one is actually still there).

Either way you approach this, first obtain a proper spring spreader. If you pull the entire rear axle assembly, leave the spring under the car, do not pull the rear out with the spring still attached as it is not a safe thing to do.


Good luck with your project.

Tom Endy
Click to expand...

I have to go through the front end this winter. I probably will just try to get it back on the road for now. I eventually need to bring the chassis back 100% but with a 2 year old and no good place to do it I have to put a full chassis restoration off down the road. Thank you for the info!
 
If it's a broken axle, once it's replaced, drive 100 miles or so. Then remove the rear wheels and re tighten the axle nuts to the next cotter pin hole. Loose axle nuts is one of the main causes of broken axles. If you've never done this, you'll be surprised at how loose yours are.
 
On the bright side, the wheel didn't come off and take out your fender and backing plate.:)

You could try Bert's for an original axle. 800-321-1931.
They are closed on Sunday's and Monday's.
 
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