Missing Suddenly

Brambleworth

Brambleworth

Junior Member
My mechanic put a rebuilt distributor in last winter that has the modern top plate. The timing was too retarded so I moved it up to 0 with lever up and about 28 with lever advanced. I did about 100 perfect miles that way and then last week noticed a miss while going up hill. It became worse until it wouldn't even move in the driveway, it would just loose power, sputter, backfire and almost, but not quite, stall.

After reading some threads here, I swapped the coil, no change. I then swapped the condenser (The one from Snyders with the red wire), cap and rotor. Ran great for about twenty miles, now I am back in the driveway sputtering, backfiring when I step on the gas, not quite stalling. When I put it in gear and apply gas, it goes no where. Seems to always start though.

I have gas, bowl is clean and the test light shows a spark at each cylinder. I didn't check points yet, need to get a feeler gauge.

Any ideas would be appreciated.

Thanks

Ted
 
The symptoms you explain indicate the wear block on the points has worn down. There are some cheap aftermarket points that will not last. The insulator on the mounting post of the points on some of the cheaper points are of nylon and also fail, shorting out the 6V.

Replace the points with a set from one of the recognized suppliers or a set by manfactirers Borg Warner, Echlin from NAPA, or Wells. There may be others also but be sure to avoid the brand STANDARD (in the green box). Hope this helps!
 
Adding to what James G. said, also check the points cam to see if it's polished or rough surface. A non-polished distributor cam will wear down even the most high-end points rubbing block in no time flat.
 
I think this is the Distributor kit my mechanic installed.
 

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Do you still have your old distributor? If so, switch back and see how it runs.

FYI- I had the modern upper plate setup (like your picture shows) in the Tudor to begin with. Had similar intermittent missing and performance problems over and over. Switched to the original type (stock) setup and haven't had a problem since.
 
P.S. said:
Adding to what James G. said, also check the points cam to see if it's polished or rough surface. A non-polished distributor cam will wear down even the most high-end points rubbing block in no time flat.
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Polished as in no crud i assume you mean PS??
 
Yes, double-check your points. I has a similar problem and found that the spring part of the points (that which forces them to close) had snapped off. All that was left was the copper conductor, and it had JUST enough spring tension to start it up, and idle. But, it sputtered somethin' terrible at speed. You can imagine the amount of 'points-float' that I had.

Somehow, I made it home 70 miles... in the dark.
 
Re: Missing Suddenly - Fixed!

Condenser Again!!!! The one on the left came with the modern kit and lasted 100 miles, the one on the right only lasted 20 miles! So now I have installed the third, also from Snyders. Thinking about buying a good quality Mallory condenser maybe. I guess I will go back to original design when I have some time to do the work. This is NUTS!!
 

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Yes, that's the same experience here with the "modern upper plate" setup.

At the urging of Tom Wesenberg here on FB, I went back to the original style setup. Not a single problem since!

I vote to ditch the "modern" style and go with original if you want trouble-free.
 
There was a similar thread last . Do a search . Lots of responses . I had a similar problem . Bought a new condenser and points from NAPA . 2,000 miles to date ,no problems.
 
Re: Missing Suddenly - Fixed!

Brambleworth said:
Condenser Again!!!! The one on the left came with the modern kit and lasted 100 miles, the one on the right only lasted 20 miles! So now I have installed the third, also from Snyders. Thinking about buying a good quality Mallory condenser maybe. I guess I will go back to original design when I have some time to do the work. This is NUTS!!
Click to expand...

But it is a ford licensed part? :cool:
 
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the problem these days with the "modern" condenser is that it is no longer modern. The replacements are cheap repros. Presently, the good quality, original A style, burn out proof repros are better condensers than the repro "moderns" which were modern in the 70's, but no longer.
 
Coincidence.

Last night had a strange experience -- slightly missing -- suddenly -- not every revolution.

Turned GAV, no change. Had just checked point gap.

While running & missing, opened hood -- no work light over engine, garage a bit dark.

No. 3 spark plug connector was very close & almost resting on the top of the distributor body -- sparks were intermittingly flying from no.3 spark plug connector to distributor body.

Stopped engine -- readjusted no. 3 spark plug connector to clear distributor body -- missing no more.

Hope yours is this simple.
 
I’ve had no problem using any of the burn proof condensers offered by Model A parts venders. Along with a stock point setup with good quality points you should have no problems for a long time.

Technically you could buy or use any condenser for any car from any auto parts store and it would work fine. The original condenser was rated at .3 Micofareds tested at 540 DC volts. I think all modern type condensers that are available today are around .26 Microfareds.

You can also remove the condenser from the distributor and hook a new one up directly to the coil post that contains the wire that leads to the ignition switch. That wire makes its way through the switch into the distributer points. Don’t forget to ground the condenser body. You can attach it to one of the a coil mounting screws.
 
There have been numerous posts on this lately. The 'newer' conversions are supposed to be good now. The points/condensers are not however. Good points/condensers can be had at NAPA but are kinda expensive. Someone recently posted the part numbers, I can't remember them. The parts are for 50's-early 70's Fords, but, I can't remember whether they are for 6cyl or 8cyl.
 
If the points look good then pull the plugs. Those could also cause the problem. A quick and easy check.
 
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