Had to remove my rad.

B

buddyholley19

Member
Look what happened to me.


Im new to the barn ,thanks everyone for all the tips.
Looks like my fan pulley warped a bit , the four blade kissed my rad. Not sure if it can be repaired or if I need a new one . I'll need to get a new fan. I hope my water pump will be ok .

Any thoughts or suggestions are of great help. I couldn't do it without the help you guys are great .

Gord.
 

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Don't know about your radiator. You could take it to a shop and have them check it out and advise you. But I do suggest you get a nice aluminum two-blade repro and consign that 4-blade to the scrap heap.
 
Re: Had to remove my rad.-Four blade fan failure

BH19,

Thanks for photos and posting ...

That is the first I have seen for that type of failure on a four blade.
 
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700rpm said:
Don't know about your radiator. You could take it to a shop and have them check it out and advise you. But I do suggest you get a nice aluminum two-blade repro and consign that 4-blade to the scrap heap.
Click to expand...

You got my vote Ray.

I will be getting two of them.

Pluck
 
Sorry about the damage, did coolant come out of the damaged area ?... like above, take it to a rad. shop and maybe they can repair it.
And please get a two bladed alum. fan, That's what real "A" model men use :rolleyes:.
 
It did not leak , many fins were bent flat, It took about two hours to try to straighten them out as best I could with a very small screw driver. It looks a lot better .I can see thru the rad now. I'll still take it to the rad shop for inspection, and I'll go from there.
 

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A alum repro fan should ALWAYS be used,no matter how good the original may look.The first thing I do when I buy an A is to change to the alum fan if it has the original or tha replacement4-blade Ford fan or other after market fan .One time I had a car with the ford replacement fan & the rivets were loose.That one got changed in a hurry!As for the rad,Ive sen them as bad as that & they didnt leak.With some time spent,you can use a couple knives or thin screw drivers & get them fairly straight & improve the airflow.Even if some tubes leak Its not hard to solder them if you have a good soldering copper to hold the heat .Much better than an open flame on the core which could make it worse.The 2-blade makes it easy to remove WP as you only need to put blades horizontal to get the pump out You may have to loosen the FRONT nuts on rad support rods & push rad ahead until it hits HL bar.Always put a piece of cardboard behind rad core.A person should always remove water inlet from side ofblock--I know hardly anybody does-but it takes the strain off the lower rad outlet due to the angle change..the rad mounts are OK as they are spring mounted.Never have the springs to tight as they will become coil-bound & defeat the purpoce of the springs.The springs also protected the rad on rough roads.Thank goodness the rad was damaged on the back side as it dont matter if it is less than perfect.If you were building a trailed-to-meets show car,then no choice but to get it recored with the exact core type it had originally.On your car,if the front was like that,then you can always use a stone guard.that would be the only time I would use oneas I think they look corny on an A,,remember, its not a Caddy ,Packard etc.JMO
 
Looking at your picture I'm trying to figure how the conduit holes line up with your shell. Is it just the photo, or do they come out the front of your radiator? :confused:
 
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