flathead Ford 6 / no spark at coil

waynerod

Member
hey Ford Barn... I picked up this 1948 Ford F1 flathead 6 motor and installed in my shoebox coupe.. long story short, I installed the motor and now attempting to start after installing new spark plugs, new wiring harness, convert to 12V, changed wires on coil as such.., using stock ign switch with push button start.. Problem.... I have no spark to the coil , dizzy.. I've read some similar issues that I'm having on this forum, but most of what was said I've checked or done with no success yet but determined to hear this flathead run... Is it a good idea to change out the ign switch to 12V... I'm thinking it could be the coil and/or dizzy.. I also checked the timing and when engine turns over the points open and close as they should but no spark noted.. Thanks for any help.
 
I don't see a ballast resistor listed there?

The wire from the coil to the points often gets frayed under the points plate and shorts out.
 
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If you have voltage to the coil check points, condenser, and rotor. Any one of these will do it. If you have fire on the points then points and condenser are ok and the rotor is bad.
 
First off buy a 12 volt coil and resister for a 56 Ford ,and a new condenser.
the guy i bought the flathead from said it was a 12 v coil ...but at this point , best replace.. thanks for the tip...let you know when she fires up..
 
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If you have voltage to the coil check points, condenser, and rotor. Any one of these will do it. If you have fire on the points then points and condenser are ok and the rotor is bad.

that's the prob., I don't have voltage/spark to any of the above...
 
First off buy a 12 volt coil and resister for a 56 Ford ,and a new condenser.


George/Maine; today I purchased a new coil with built in resister, new condenser and filed the points..also took apart the dizzy to the point of replacing the copper wire inside and pulling and reinstalling the points, put together, attempted again to start the flatty, still no spark.... anymore diagnoses would be cool..., let me know...the points look good (only part not new besides plug wires). Anyone else with a possible solution, hit me up...
 
Did you ever ck for voltage at the coil? Also ck ign sw if no voltage .to and leaving sw
 
power to coil??...if not, start tracing wires to figure out where you have power and what happens to it before it gets to coil/distributor....Mike
 
Put a jumper across sw after determining the hot wire and the wire going to coil,bet it starts..
 
As others have said, if you don't have voltage at the "+" side of the coil with the ignition switch "on", nothing is going to happen. Trace hot wire to coil back to ignition switch, making sure there are no breaks or bad connections. Make sure the "I" terminal on the ignition switch is hot with the switch on and be sure the wire to coil is on the correct terminal of the switch.

A quick and dirty test would be to install a jumper wire from the hot side of the battery to the "+" side of the coil. You should then have power to the coil and the engine should start if the rest of your ignition is proper.
 
apprec. the possible cause and solution... , ran a wire from + side of bat to + side of new coil...with start ign sw on... no spark.. This is a new wiring harness installed also, not much is old at this point... could possibly be a bad orig ign sw? It does turn the engine over, but do have the push button still connected.. to dash..
 
You have way to make engine turn over under power right.
If you have a OHM meter remove screw from condenser.
Then put one end on case of dizzy what a stupid term.
The onter end remove from coil and see if makes and brakes by turning over under power. See if you can pull off end of wire connector.
Good
now put back with good condenser.
piece of wire from + then to + on coil.
Now take the end of coil wire that goes into cap and hold 1/2 to grd turn over under power and see if it sparks.
And make sure you have a known good coil .most need a resister.
 
40cpe has it right. Jump from hot side of battery to coil + post and bypass ignition switch. It's quick and easy. If it starts, it tells you where the problem is.
 
40cpe has it right. Jump from hot side of battery to coil + post and bypass ignition switch. It's quick and easy. If it starts, it tells you where the problem is.

nope, tried that quick check last night, no spark what so ever at + side of coil from + side of bat....picking up a new set of points today, everything else is pretty much replaced...

George/Maine.. yes engine turns over under power as it should...just no spark... will break down and look for a ohm meter today also.. this is one challenging project..

40cpe.. I'll check the points this morning for volt before I go out and pickup a new set... not giving up here...
 
Quick test
Use c clamp or vise grip and piece of wire.
Now put battery on bench and set coll next to it.
Take and put round base of condenser to neg.
wire end from condenser, with nut and piece of wire hold wire in hand.
now take another wire and run to coil pos.
coil wire sparkplug kind end in center of coil other 1/2 from neg post battery.
Now the wire in your hand just touch to neg when you let off it should spark.
You will need a 12 volt coil and good condenser.
 
Quick test
Use c clamp or vise grip and piece of wire.
Now put battery on bench and set coll next to it.
Take and put round base of condenser to neg.
wire end from condenser, with nut and piece of wire hold wire in hand.
now take another wire and run to coil pos.
coil wire sparkplug kind end in center of coil other 1/2 from neg post battery.
Now the wire in your hand just touch to neg when you let off it should spark.
You will need a 12 volt coil and good condenser.

hey George..... I bought and installed a new 12V coil and condenser yesterday and installed.... I can try that procedure, to ensure new parts are functioning properly.. I used to live in Maine...nice state...especially in the summer...
 
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