Brake Job - How far to go

Four Lazy C Boss

Four Lazy C Boss

Member
NEW GUY ON THE BLOCK. I am the proud new owner of a '30 standard coupe (as of one month ago). It underwent an almost-complete restoration in 2008 and has hardly been driven since. It is GORGEOUS and runs like a little sewing machine. But one thing that wasn't completed before the owner decided to sell was a brake restoration. The brakes seem to work great, stop efficiently and evenly, with no pulling. But I pulled the front drums to check and repack the wheel bearings and saw that the front linings are into the rivets and the drums lightly scored. This is when I realized the brakes were not part of the restoration. I haven't pulled the rear drums yet.

I have never done a brake job on any car, but it seems like it would be fairly straightforward just to replace the shoes and springs and see how everything works. A complete rebuild seems a little intimidating. I have checked all of the actuator rods, clevises and pins and I have ordered a new set of brake shoes with bonded woven linings.

1. Do you think it is reasonable to just replace the linings since everything seems to be working well now?
2. Do I need a brake-shoe centering tool to replace the shoes?
3. Do I need to take the new shoes and the drums to a shop and have the shoes "arced" to match the drums or will they do this on there own with a little use?
 
Brakes are one of my forte's... and I can without a doubt say you should/need to do a very thorough brake job. Checking all shafts/levers/bushings for wear... repair/replace as necessary. Ensure drums are turned/replaced as necessary. Yes, once relined the shoes should be arced to fit the drums for optimum fit and shoes Centered with a centering gauge. Be sure to chamfer the ends of the shoes so there is no high spots on the ends that will cause brake chatter.. etc.

Wear points exist from the brake pedal and rods/pins to the cross shaft, brake rods, brake actuating rods, front brake cross shafts, operating pins, and the rear brake camshafts..... all of this on a "restored" car should have absolutely been done.

Unfortunately, I see far to often where cars "appear" to be restored to many.. but are unfortunately just paint jobs and cosmetics instead of complete comprehensive restorations. In all honesty if the brakes weren't done properly I would suspect the rest of the mechanicals as well. If brakes aren't done.. then typically steering gears, front ends/rear ends, and other driveline components weren't done or done well either.

A comprehensive brake job will depending on drums will run about $800 + in parts.. plus if you farm out for labor. Proper restoration of parts/proper assembly, and adjustment is all equally important. A well restored /adjusted/broke in brake system will stop on a dime.... I'd put them up against the hydraulics on my '40 any day!
The last thing you ever want to say is " I couldn't stop"!!!

Don't ever compromise or shortchange doing brakes! Hopefully I got my point across....

Larry Shepard
 
Just riveting the bands on the shoes is easy enough. The tools are available from the suppliers at little cost. Finding a shop that can turn the drums will be harder.
 
Actually, if it has scored the drums, you really need to consider purchasing new drums.

Larry is speaking from experience. It may be to your advantage to remove all of your brake housing plates, cross-shaft, actuating shaft housings, and even the brake pedal and have all of them properly restored, ...either by yourself or someone who has knows how to do it correctly. When they are done correctly, I'm almost certain you will shake your head in amazement how well they will stop.
 
You will find the vendors will supply you with a Backing Plate already set with new brake parts following a core exchange. You should also strongly consider replacing the original drums with "Cast Iron" or "Ductile Steel" drums which are almost three times thicker than the originals and will stop better and strongly resist brake fade. The original steel drums get thin and expand and at just the wrong time you will need braking power and not have it since the thin drum expanded beyond the throw of your brakes.
Good luck and consider treating your beauty with great stopping power. Mechanical brakes work very well if properly equipped.
 
Thank you Brent.. .well said. I had a fellow one time ask if my brakes were good... he was of course riding in the passenger seat. I said "please buckle your seat belt". I hit the brakes doing about 30+ and he about bonged his head against the windshield... of course all 4 all skidded to a stop. He never again professed how bad Model A brakes were to me again. All too often folks don't restore/adjust them properly.. and gauge their performance on worn out cars.. We are lucky to have the good selection of repro and still obtainable original brake parts available to us to restore them to the new performance they were capable of.

Larry
 
i agree with larry. The car is 83 years old and you need to know the condition of all the components. You will be very happy with the original brakes when properly restored. I would strongly consider new drums if the originals are scored. They really work great.

Just my opinion,

Chris
 
Thanks to you all for the advice. The car was restored at a professional shop that does only Model A's, and it had a frame-off paint job and power train restoration, etc, etc, etc. I have every receipt. The things that were done were done very well, but the owner decided to sell it before they had a complete brake restoration. So it never got completely finished. It looks like the brakes were the only thing left.
 
Get Les Andrews' book, Vol I. It has a step-by-step guide in rebuilding brakes (and just about everything else, too). You need this book in your library. All good parts houses carry it.
 
larrys40 said:
Thank you Brent.. .well said. I had a fellow one time ask if my brakes were good... he was of course riding in the passenger seat. I said "please buckle your seat belt". I hit the brakes doing about 30+ and he about bonged his head against the windshield... of course all 4 all skidded to a stop. He never again professed how bad Model A brakes were to me again. All too often folks don't restore/adjust them properly.. and gauge their performance on worn out cars.. We are lucky to have the good selection of repro and still obtainable original brake parts available to us to restore them to the new performance they were capable of.

Larry
Click to expand...

Seat belts??? What are seat belts?
 
Get someone that has experience in rebuilding model A breaks rebuild the brakes. Just finished mine $1,300 in parts $400 in labor ( club member ) . cast iron drums ,new shoes and hardware. Snyders furnished the drums and pressed on my hubs ($900). Wished I had done this before we drove the Natchiz Trace. Had some close calls.
 
Thanks again for all of your advice. I'm not driving it much and only on fairly flat country roads right now. After the Fourth of July Parade I will have lots of down time to get into this.
 
CWPASADENA said:
i agree with larry. The car is 83 years old and you need to know the condition of all the components. You will be very happy with the original brakes when properly restored. I would strongly consider new drums if the originals are scored. They really work great.

Just my opinion,

Chris
Click to expand...
Plus 10. I went through my brakes a-z and Im glad I did, they stop great.
 
You guys have all given me good advice. I am way into this now and have everything off of both front backing plates. I'm doing the works on it and installing a Flathead Ted floater kit too. Once I got into this I realized you can't just stick new shoes on. I am quickly becoming a Model A brake expert.
 
Well you start at the brake pedal and work your way to the drums. The part you leave will be the one that fails. Go over the system part by part and rebuild as required. Make sure everything is tight (rods, pins, bushings etc.) get the shoes arched to the drums for full contact, new linings and you'll be surprized how well the brakes will work. It could be worse, how about cable activated brake like a Studebaker!!!!! stretch, adjust, stretch, adjust etc.etc.
The Old Tinbasher
 
Tinbasher said:
Well you start at the brake pedal and work your way to the drums. The part you leave will be the one that fails. Go over the system part by part and rebuild as required. Make sure everything is tight (rods, pins, bushings etc.) get the shoes arched to the drums for full contact, new linings and you'll be surprized how well the brakes will work. It could be worse, how about cable activated brake like a Studebaker!!!!! stretch, adjust, stretch, adjust etc.etc.
The Old Tinbasher
Click to expand...

Thanks. I'm doing it all.
 
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