Intake problem!

40Ford!!

40Ford!!

Senior Member
I recently noticed the intake on my 35 was significantly cracked and a very good welder looked at it and said it too far gone to weld. So I picked up a '36 and was told it would work. When I went to put it on I noticed the oil stack tube that sits under the intake is too tall by about 1" and the intake will not sit flat. The bolts are shorter on the 36, the height of the intake itself at the oil fill is shorter on the 36 again by an inch. This also means the fuel pump plunger tube is too long for the '36 intake. So my question is should it just look for the exact year replacement intake or can I make this work? I really just want to do a simple swap and be done with it. I will attach 3 pictures (they may be in separate posts but I will post them all). The first one will be the two intakes side by side. My old 35 cracked intake is in the foreground and the clean 36 in the background. Pic 2 shows the height difference at the oil fill area and pic 3 shows my crack in the 35. Can someone tell me EXACTLY what year my old intake is? The car it came off is a 35. Thanks
 

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Useing "The 1935-1936 Early Ford " book as referance the manifold on the left is Early 35 and the one on the right is Late 35. The 1936 intake had a smoother slope from the generator support to the carbuerator mount and had no flutes on either side of the carbuertor mount. The cracked one of yours is definatly a early 35.
 
40,
Yep the cracked one is a very early '35 and all '34. The clean one is a '36. The
difference between a non very early '35 and a '36 is additional material around the
heat riser passages on the '36. Get the shorter f/p push rod and temporarily forget
the oil stack tube until one turns up.
Charlie ny
 
Sorry Charlie, not quite correct; the cracked one is 35, however, 34 version, whilst appearing at first glance to be the same, differs inas much as the fuel pump hole is sorta diamond shaped, and it is smooth between the carb riser and fuel pump mount, whereas the 35 version has a protrusion sticking up.
There was quite a discussion about these features, on here, some time back.
 
Thanks for the input. So does everyone agree I could use this "late" 35 intake and also use a shorter f/p plunger tube and forgo the oil stack until I find one? Well this work?
 
It looks like the taller stand for the fuel pump would put the fuel pump up higher away from the in take manifold. The fuel pump being close to the intake will get hotter in hot weather causing ethanol gas to boil and vapor lock the pump. I made a spacer to raise the fuel pump when doing vapor lock tests. They make a long and short push rod. G.M.
 
So does everyone agree I could use this "late" 35 intake and also use a shorter f/p plunger tube and forgo the oil stack until I find one? Well this work?

What you mean is 'shorter push rod', and yes, that will work.
 
On the tube what you have is 48-6756-A and you need 48-6756-B . Both listed as 35 only in a June 35 parts book . This means yours is 1" too long . That should be easy to fix or just get one for a cast iron intake . Same on the pushrod . The part the pump actually bolts to fits both . This pipe should be in place as it is a major part of the ventilation system .Your early 35 intake is a little rare and they have a way of starting " discussions " as they look like 34 intakes if you are unfamiliar with them . Pretty sure if you use the early style cast iron intake all your stuff will work . Ever notice the short fuel pump pushrod is listed as aluminum intake and the long is listed for cast iron intakes ? Well this is accurate ONLY if you ignore the 34 and early 35 intakes .
 
I'm not sure how much these intakes are worth, but it really would not be hard to pull that stud out, grind out a big groove where the crack is and fill it with weld. And while yr at it, build up the sides of the genny slot to repair them. Easy to mill it flat if necessary.

Just a thought, Tom.
 
Hey 40Ford,
I'm in Maryland too, in Carroll County, and have an early 35 Tudor with the original intake. I also have another intake which was on my 35 Convertible, which may be a 36. I'll have to get some pics, but you are welcome to visit to compare what is on my Tudor.
Bob
 
G.M. said:
It looks like the taller stand for the fuel pump would put the fuel pump up higher away from the in take manifold. The fuel pump being close to the intake will get hotter in hot weather causing ethanol gas to boil and vapor lock the pump. I made a spacer to raise the fuel pump when doing vapor lock tests. They make a long and short push rod. G.M.
Click to expand...
Here is your anwser. Build a spacer and solve two problems at once and no need for other parts??
 
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