Stumbling 8BA went drivable to bad

Hutch07 said:
Mart,

I just got it on the road. It must have had blocked jets. It runs well with throttle and I am still working on the idle- kind of jumpy. It used to idle better even before the rebuild.

I started at 1-1/2 turns out on the idle adjustment needle and dialed in the idle screw. - I'll keep tuning......:)

Is there an inline fuel filter that would look correct but do a little better job than the glass bowl?

Thanks guys.
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Why did you set needles at 1 1/2 turns. i penciled in to set @ 1 turn ??? ken ct/ I think im going to eliminate putting in special notes as nobody follows them any way. Just a waste of my time.
 
Thanks,

I did turn it down. The float is set to 1-7/16 on the money. It is better but something is still happening when it warms up. My temp gauge is in the middle but I am thinking about pulling the thermostats to keep it cool and check it out.

Also thinking about the fuel pump..........
 
Ken,

Sorry the 1 was covered by the circle so it just looks like the word "turn". It does not seem like that is the problem.
 
Either something else is wrong or you didn't do a very good job of rebuilding it.I have no idea what you did with it sorry. ken ct. Sorry but a lot of DIYS rebuilds dont always turn out correct.
 
Hutch07 in your first post you said you unhooked the vacuum advance and had no change in performance. If your car is stock this advance signal is really a venturi signal which advances the spark as more air is pulled through the carburetor. From what you discribe the advance is not working. EIther no signal from carb or advance in ditributor not working or line leaking or plugged. Good luck.
 
I always blow out that hole w/hi pressure and stick a straight paper clip through it to make sure its open.Most likely a non funtioning adv. mechinizm. ken ct.
 
http://youtu.be/Z22h2qNSbmI

It idles well but and I can see the squirtters working and the nozzle bars spraying fuel. As soon as I give it throttle, it's like the ignition is shut off. It is defeating me so far..... I'm tearing apart the distributor tomorrow and learning about vacuum break.
 
Long shot - Check the wires inside the distributor, maybe there is a bare piece of wire that is shorting as the advance mechanism moves. It is ok when there is advance at idle, then shorts as the load comes on and it retards a bit.

I actually had this happen on a '63 Consul Capri with a Lucas distributor.

Mart.
 
Mart said:
Long shot - Check the wires inside the distributor, maybe there is a bare piece of wire that is shorting as the advance mechanism moves. It is ok when there is advance at idle, then shorts as the load comes on and it retards a bit.

I actually had this happen on a '63 Consul Capri with a Lucas distributor.

Mart.
Click to expand...

Very common! I had a Triumph Spitfire that would idle like a dream, but die as soon as I gave it any gas. One of the screws holding the points down was a bit too long and cut thru the insulation on the wire under the plate. It shorted the wire when there was a change in advance.
 
All,
The econimizer valve was dumping fuel into the bottom. I did find this shortly after the post but wanted to finally follow up.
 
All,
I am now looking for an additional carb (Holley 94 8ba) for my new dual intake? Does anyone have an extra?
 
I had stumbling at normal speed issues after I had changed the fuel pump to a newer pump ('34 TO '48) that's when the stumbling started so I thought the pump had something to do with it... checked the pump... seemed fine (Walt said the pumps seldom over pump...).. so then it was on to the carbs, they were just rebuilt and seemed fine... then I checked the points they were good too, but the rotor button on the cap was fried to a crisp (running 12 volts), changed caps.. still ran like $hit... Explained it to Walt and Ken, they said change the coil, then the condenser .. the old do one thing at a time fix ( I still had the 6 volt coil on it) no change, changed the condenser! Voila! It ran fine on the test drive!
 
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