Best cam gear?

29ModelA

29ModelA

Well-known member
What is the best cam gear right now? I am pretty sure i wiped mine out today and will be tearing into it tomorrow.

Engine lost all power while driving, distributor rotor doesn't spin, and engine doesn't seem to have compression.

How bad is it to change while in the car? I have read on here it can be done.

Thank you
 
I've been using the firber gears, but the aluminum gears should last longer. Check the condition of the crank gear, and be sure to replace it if it's bad. I've seen just the cam gear get changed in 2 or 3 hours while the engine is in the car. You'll often see this get done a time or two at the national meets.

I wouldn't use a two piece cam gear. That would be the one with the aluminum center and fiber outer.
 
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Changed my noisy fiber/metal timing gear recently to a quiet Mr. Tom McEachern aluminum timing gear while engine was in car.

(If metal timing gears are researched on the other Model A Forum, a few years ago there used to be a typical Model A Heresy that all metal timing gears, (bronze or aluminum), were unbearably noisy until one (1) Model A Forum Cleric on the other Forum protested & launched an adamant verbal crusade that Mr. Tom McEachern's metal gears were not noisy if one used his metal timing gear with his metal crankshaft gear -- then a few remaining Forum Clerics changed the Model A Forum Dogma after a few tried his quiet metal gears).

For timing gear removal & installation, here are a few tips:

1. Place a piece of wood between the oil pan & mechanical jack, (not a normal leaking hydraulic jack), to protect the oil pan; then, slightly lift the engine to remove the front engine support & timing cover.

2. Naturally, the fan belt & generator has to be removed -- don't forget the hidden "recessed" timing gear cover bolt.

3. Broke the plastic handle off of a 1/2" socket type screw driver & turned same with a small wrench to get to the tight areas for front oil pan bolt removal.

4. To avoid neighbors calling 911 because of (4) letter word usage, with a mirror, align existing timing marks on the timing gear & the crank gear "prior" to removing the existing timing gear -- makes it so easy to re-install the new timing gear & not having to rotate the engine a hundred times for new alignment of angular gears while fighting with a mirror & using (4) letter words.

5. Be careful not to damage the oil pan gasket & front crankshaft seals when removing the timing gear cover.

Others may have more to add -- just takes a little thinking associated with a little patience.

Added note: If you want a total lengthy renovation project over the next few months, just jack up the front of the engine high enough to crack the flywheel housing at the rear engine supports -- some loosen the rear mounting bolts for extra precaution -- others don't & lift the engine only very slightly.
 
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there are 2 types of fiber gear presently available. The laminated one is much better and lasts longer than the cheaper one. Of course metal lasts longer than the engine in most cases, but installing only the cam gear without a matching crank gear means the engine will probably sound like a diesel.
 
I've never had a problem replaceing just the cam gear. I only use bronze or aluminum cam gears. Bronze is said to be quieter, I've never noticed noise with either. Replaceing timing gears is a PIA, worse if you have to replace both gears. Dan McEachern makes the best gears but they cost more.
 
Is the tool, the gear, and the timing cover gaskets (side and front) all that is needed to do the job?

I want a metal gear, my engine has always been noisy compared to others i hear anyway.
 
Get the tool that fits around the nut on the cam. It'll be we'll worth the money. Put an aluminum or bronze timing gear in it. No sense in waisting you time putting in another a fiber one to have it break agAin on you. The job isn't hard, you'll spend most of your time taking the radiator and shell off. I hit the nut with an impact to get it on and off. Some people use a hammer and a chisel for loosening and tightening, but that isn't enough in my opinion. I've seen people change the gear with the radiator and everything In place. But I think that's just like pissing into the wind. It doesn't make since, you have more room to work if you get the radiator out of the way, and you can see what your looking at.
 
That seventh recessed bolt is down under the generator( driver's side of the eng,). You'll take the six visible bolts off, but the timing cover will still be on. And don't forget the cam spring and follower in the cover. Good luck!
Terry
 
I use the modern camshaft nut, it is a hex nut. I use a six point 1 1/2 inch socket to install the modern hex camshaft nut. It is easier to torque with the modern nut. I think that the torque is around 100 ft. lbs. but check. The part number for the modern nut is 8780 and lists for $12.00 and is on page 40 of the new Brattons catalog. I use a cold chisel and hammer to remove the old original cam nut. The cam nut wrenches that are sold vary in size and seldom fit the original type cam nuts properly. I bought two or three of these cam nut wrenches from different sources before I quit wasting time and went with the modern style nut. I would replace the cam plunger and spring that fits in the timing cover and be sure to grease the spring before installation. The timing mark on the crank gear is at the keyway and may be Ford script instead of an indentation , if its an original part. You may have to bend the oil slinger to see and align the timing marks. I always use a 5/16 drill bit to enlarge the timing dimple on the cam gear, this will make it easier to find the dimple with the timing pin when you time the distributor.
 
In response to relpy #6:

1. If your crank gear is an original Ford gear, chances are Mr. Dan McEachern's gear will work fine because his gears are made per original specs.

2, He also has timing gears in oversize increments if your crank gear is worn -- always call him first for advice prior to ordering -- real gentleman who has lots of experience with many timing gear replacements -- he can also tell one in detail what & what not to do if one would ask.

3. You may want to add a spare oil pan gasket to your gasket order just in case one is needed.

4. Each to his own on materials & methods used in changing timing gears -- e.g., no (2) people even make biscuits alike -- some may always buy can biscuits, & some do not even like biscuits for breakfast, & some do not like breakfast -- why should one expect that there is only one (1) way to replace timing gears or do anything else in life? Have fun!
 
Purdy Swoft said:
I've never had a problem replaceing just the cam gear. I only use bronze or aluminum cam gears. Bronze is said to be quieter, I've never noticed noise with either. Replaceing timing gears is a PIA, worse if you have to replace both gears. Dan McEachern makes the best gears but they cost more.
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that's amazing to me that either you have great luck with them, or I have had bad luck with them.. I had a matched set of metal gears sold by Sac Vintage, that sounded terrible from the first. I have replaced three cam gears with aluminum gears sold by Brattons and Snyders, all made lots of noise which is fine in a speedster, but not a touring car. Only Dan's gears sounded ok. I've never replaced only one with his, because he said I should replace the set. Speaking of Dan, we are restoring a 22 Studebaker now, and could not find timing gears for it. We made a call to Dan and he said he could copy them for us. What a guy.
 
my newly rebuilt Dreamwerks engine has an aluminum timing gear, and it is a bit too noisy to suit me.

will stick with the green fiber in the future, but I'm too lazy to change this one.......
 
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