Rebuild stock 31 box or replace with F100 box?

skryla

skryla

Senior Member
I need to have my steering box rebuilt. Should I go for an F100 box or just have my 31 box rebuilt.

If the 31 box rebuilt, who you would you suggest? Anyone in NJ? Prices?

If F100 same questions.

Should I go for the shortened pitman arm? Will it interfere with the 32 front axle, brakes, kingpins, brake actuators I am going to put in?
 
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What's wrong with the steering? Is it just loose, as in too much play, or is there wear in the sector shaft, or leaking too much fluid? Is this something you really don't want to do yourself? Or, at least try?
 
Do yo0u have a copy of the service bulletins?? Detailed instructions and it's 4 adjustments done in sequence, if not right, repeat.
Fellow in CT restores boxes, adv in the Restorer. Mel Gross, ck swap section does the F-100 boxes as well as someone else here whose (sorry) name I can't remember. You could also do a search at top of this page re: F-100 strg box. Curious as to why the changeover to 32 parts??
Paul in CT
 
I modified my 2-tooth box with needle sector & needle sector thrust brgs,short P-arm round steering balls & teflon ball seats & I wouldnt trade it for a F-100 unit.
 
I use the original steering box with shortened pittman arm and teflon buttons. I prefer the sector housing to have bushings, not needle bearings due to their tendency to brinnell the shaft. If the spindle balls are worn or rough, they must be replaced to use the teflon kit. Even if you use the old steel buttons, worn spindle balls make the steering hard.

As far as rebuilding the box, you can get them done by Brattons, and quite possibly by some other vendors like Snyder or Berts. Call 'em and ask. . OR ask around your local club for a Model A mechanic in your area.
 
There is nothing wrong with the standard Model 'A' Two tooth steering box. Great just the way they are.
I feel that 99.9% of all modifications are completely unwarranted.
The Model 'A' is perfect the way it was made.
 
I went with the rebuilt one from Snyder's. You exchange your old one. It's a little pricey but all you have to do is bolt it in. I didn't need to adjust mine after install. I have replaced them on both of my As with them and I'm totally satisfied.
 
RHD said:
There is nothing wrong with the standard Model 'A' Two tooth steering box. Great just the way they are.
I feel that 99.9% of all modifications are completely unwarranted.
The Model 'A' is perfect the way it was made.
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I was just weighing my options.
 
I've rebuilt two 2-tooth boxes and one 7-tooth box. The 2-tooth boxes are a breeze next to the 7-tooth.:eek: I don't know how mechanically inclined you are, but it is worth a try to do it yourself.:) In fact one
of the joys of "A-ing" is doing it yourself as much as possible. I am in no
way a mechanic, more like a glorified parts-changer.;)

In 1932 didn't Ford go to 12" drums vs Model-A 11" drums, but everything
else is pretty much the same?:confused:

Bob-A:D
 
I had Bratton's remove and press on a new worm gear and rebuilt the rest myself. It's not that hard to do, and though this was some time ago, it didn't cost me anywhere near $600. I have the needle bearings (much maligned) and the shortened pitman arm (also much maligned) but can't imagine having steering any better than what I have. No play whatsoever and no leaks. It's not power steering, but damned close.
 
The steering gear that came in my truck was in pretty bad shape, and beyond my level of comfort to rebuild myself. I considered my options and made a real big mistake in getting an EZ-Steer unit. It turned out to be just as bad after a couple of months (or maybe a little worse) than the original that I had.

So . . . Third time is the charm. I got one of the F100 units on eBay. Have had it now for 2 years and really love it. Still using the original length Pittman arm, might consider the short one some day.
 
32-36 axle lowers the car 1 3/4". 32-34 Brakes are 12" cast iron with open centers (like the late 31 brakes)...was a popular modification prior to the advent of dropped axles in the mid-to-late 40's.
 
gwhite said:
32-36 axle lowers the car 1 3/4". 32-34 Brakes are 12" cast iron with open centers (like the late 31 brakes)...was a popular modification prior to the advent of dropped axles in the mid-to-late 40's.
Click to expand...

Yes I just think the car will look better (for me) lowered a bit.

As for rebuidling the box I'd rather use someone who is referred versus someone who has a "nice" website.
 
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