Dragging cluch

R

Rokkern

Junior Member
Hi evreyone, I´m new to the forum..

Bought my first Model A, a tudor 31. It rough with patina, but in driveable shape and has plates.

The clutch is dragging even when fully depressed. I have to give throttle imiidiately for it not to kill the engine. It did this when I bought it but have become worse every time I drive it.
I have to be pretty quick when going into reverse and first.

It also shakes badly when taking off. Driving around is doable, as long as I hit the desired rpm for the gear I´m going into.

What could be wrong ?
There´s 4-5 drops of oil under the trans/engine area after each trip. Thinking it might be a worn main seal and oily clutch, but would be great with some advise before I start to tear her up. It sat from 1964 to 2012 and had almost only been driven to the gas station by the guy I bought it from.

Thanks for any guidance.
 
Have you checked the adjustment? The clutch peddle should only have a little free travel. You adjust this with the linkage between the peddle and the clutch arm.
 
There is no seal in the rear main if it is original. Get used to the little drip, a couple of drops is normal. I would get under the car and adjust the clutch first thing by unhooking the linkage and screw it in a couple of turns. You will see the link connecting the pedal to the lever that operates the clutch. You should have 1" of free play at the top of the pedal before you feel it contact the pressure plate. Any more and it will drag and be hard to shift. As for grinding gears at change, you will grind them lots till you learn the double clutch technique. The gearbox is unsynchronized in all gears.
 
I would adj it and DRIVE it. The chatter might go away. Make sure the ****** is full. Better yet, drain the ****** fluid and refill with the 600W available from all the vendors. You're probably going to get a dozen+ recommendations of what fluid to use but if you use the 600W you'll be good to go.
Paul in CT
 
That's pretty good news guys.
I don't scratch between gears, the problem is going into rev or first from a stop.
There where some slack (about an inch) i'll adjust it so it's almost gone and see what happens.
It's getting a service soon. Will be filling trans and rear with 600w. Man that sounds thick!!
Thank's guys!
 
Rok, Dog:cool: here,
It's 'bout as thik as Ol' Bill's head,:D naw, jist teasin'! It's not REALLY 600 W, them folks sellin' it jist lie some.:eek: Buster T.:cool:
 
You said it got worse every time you took it out so I would ask you to make sure the cast lever is not cracking. That is a common failure and might be exciting if it lets go.
 
When you step on the clutch while stopped, do you wait long enough for the input shaft to stop rotating? When you have the correct thick oil, it should take about 5 to 10 seconds before you try to shift to first or reverse. Once you are moving, you can shaft without grinding if you double clutch or wait the correct amount of time. If you are new to Model A's try shifting to 2nd at about 5 MPH and 3rd at about 12 MPH for less chance of grinding. As you get better with practice there will be times when you upshift at higher speeds, like when climbing a hill.
 
Tom Wesenberg said:
When you step on the clutch while stopped, do you wait long enough for the input shaft to stop rotating? When you have the correct thick oil, it should take about 5 to 10 seconds before you try to shift to first or reverse. Once you are moving, you can shaft without grinding if you double clutch or wait the correct amount of time. If you are new to Model A's try shifting to 2nd at about 5 MPH and 3rd at about 12 MPH for less chance of grinding. As you get better with practice there will be times when you upshift at higher speeds, like when climbing a hill.
Click to expand...
? :eek:
 
Tom Wesenberg said:
When you step on the clutch while stopped, do you wait long enough for the input shaft to stop rotating? When you have the correct thick oil, it should take about 5 to 10 seconds before you try to shift to first or reverse. Once you are moving, you can shaft without grinding if you double clutch or wait the correct amount of time. If you are new to Model A's try shifting to 2nd at about 5 MPH and 3rd at about 12 MPH for less chance of grinding. As you get better with practice there will be times when you upshift at higher speeds, like when climbing a hill.
Click to expand...

like tom says earlier shifts are easier and less likely to grind. give it time before 1st and rev.
its not a 4 spd muncie:D
 
Since I`m new to Model A`s I had a friend try to drive mine, he gave up and refused to drive it. He has driven A`s alot. Just to rule my shifting abilities out of the equation.. But yes, it`s easier shifting at low rpm`s. Still won`t go into rev or 1st no matter how long I wait. Haven`t adjusted the clutch yet.
 
change the fluid,
and another thing is to make sure your base idle is not high which will affect getting into gear at a stop. the A can and likes to idle looow
 
It has to idle low to get it in gear, it goes chump chump chump, and you can count the bangs if you like.. Low revs, throw it in gear, hit the throttle before it stalls;)
 
It's not that bad to change the clutch disc, if that's what it needs. If you do change the disc, then also make sure the pressure plate 6 fingers are all adjusted evenly, and I'd give the flywheel and pressure plate a light sanding with an electric palm sander.

This would also be a good time to dial in the flywheel cover.
 
And no offense to your friend, but there are people that have done something for years, and still are not good at it, nor qualified to form an opinion. What did he say when he "refused" to drive it? Find a local club member and look them up, and ask them for help. I would bet they would be glad to.

Furthermor, if you tell us where you are there might be a Ford Barner nearby who could take a listen.
 
Great info guys. First impression is that this is one of the good forums out there.
Are there any vendors out there with a good partslist online? Pm me if needed.
Is it easier to get the trans out or the engine to replace the clutch IF need be?
 
To replace clutch you're either going to have to pull the engine OR pull the rear end out.
If you had filled out where you're at I would post a supplier near you and/or there may be a "Barn" member near you. Snyder's, Bratton's, Tam's, Bert's.
Paul in CT
 
ooops, beginners mistake. I`m in Oslo, Norway. there are atleast one supplier here but uhm, they could give me a discount on a new radiator and the price was 1428 dollars. yikes.

A warehouse like summitracing only doing Model A parts is to much to ask I guess ;)

Drove the A to my workshop today. Usually half an hour drive. Took me an hour:)
Running on three cylinders ain´t all that fast. Redneck fixed that after checking spark with the same plug, faulty distributor. Nr. 2 not following along unless I push the dizzy clockwise. Cleaned the plugs, adjusted gap, blah blah, some wire between the intake and dizzy voila. And here I was thinking people where joking that you could fix anything with wire and tape on these cars ;):p
anyways drove it for the first time on all 4. I`m surprised how fast it was. Going up steep hills at 30 was not even pushing it all that much.

oh, yes the clutch.. I was out of adjustment. Adjuster all bottomed out. Either have to give it more threads, or cut and weld. The good thing is that I will probaby be able to adjust it more once I do because this is probably why it´s not working properly. Previous owner gave up I guess.
 
Bought a new clutch. Wasn't all that expensive. Will be pulling the engine one of these days. I'm gonna drive the car alot, seemed like the best option, will be tuning the engine too, so having a great will save me from a lot of grief. Thank's for all the help!
 
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