grinding stones
- Thread starter ole39
- Start date
Kurt in NJ
Well-known member
What are you trying to do ---if you are trying to remove a lot you want coarser stone to start, then fine to finish -----do you want stones for hard seats ---or cast iron
Have you looked here-- http://www.goodson.com/
If you post pictures of what you have it will generate more interest, and you can find information on what you are missing
Have you looked here-- http://www.goodson.com/
If you post pictures of what you have it will generate more interest, and you can find information on what you are missing
Zeke...PA
Well-known member
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Ronnie
Well-known member
Before you get knee deep in trying to do a valve job,did you get in this score a pilot for flatheads?Who makes it Sioux, k line, quick way,snap on ,black and decker Give us a hint.Have you ever used one before?There are roughing stones finishing stones ruby stones stellite stones the list goes on and on.There are 30 deg stones 45 deg stones 60 deg stones.You can also dress them to desired angles.Did you get a stone dresser with this set?How are you going to knurl the guides?
R
ole39
Senior Member
the seats are in an 8ba block and look good, so maybe they just need to be "hit" lightly. they do look like someone went a little crazy in an earlier rebuild, but fiqure a slightly oversize valve will cure that. yes, it has a flathead pilot and a stone dresser. its a b&d. it came with no stones, the reason for the post. yup, ive done a few valve jobs. dont have anything to knurl them with, otherwise i would, they look to be in good shape, so, knurl them, or new?
Ol' Ron
Well-known member
I knurl All my guides. I find most new guides are too loose. However the knurled can be fit tighter and a knurled guide is better lubricated and last longer. The flathead does not have any lateral forces acting on it. I fit them with .0005/.001" clearance and use no seals on the guides, just a thin film of RTV on the intakes and never seize on the exhaust.
GOSFAST
Well-known member
Before you get knee deep in trying to do a valve job,did you get in this score a pilot for flatheads?Who makes it Sioux, k line, quick way,snap on ,black and decker Give us a hint.Have you ever used one before?There are roughing stones finishing stones ruby stones stellite stones the list goes on and on.There are 30 deg stones 45 deg stones 60 deg stones.You can also dress them to desired angles.Did you get a stone dresser with this set?How are you going to knurl the guides?
R
There's no need for "dedicated" Flathead valve-guide pilots, you simply use a new (or "good" used) valve guide and the conventional pilots used on Ford, Chevy, etc! We do have the "correct" Flathead pilots but don't use them!
Just to add, if you do choose the "dedicated" ones you would need them in -.002", -.001", Std., +.001", and +.002". This would cover any differences in the block holes.
We've been doing this method for more years than I can remember!
Thanks, Gary in N.Y.
P.S. Here's a shot of the pilots side-by-side, the Flathead is on the right. You can see either setup gets the job done!
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Walt Dupont--Me.
Well-known member
That is a Black and Decker, I have one just like it. I like the Ford piolet, it sets up in the in lifter bore and the guide bore, The seats come out perfect. I also have a Souze, that Ford piolet just set up in the guide, if the guide bore is worn some the seat come out not in consentric. I also have a Hall seat grinder set. Walt
Ronnie
Well-known member
The way i do it is loctite the cut to length 2"guide with a bronze liner.The cut to length allows easier installation of a pos seal after the seats are cut.Install in the block and treat it as a normal valve job after the cure.The fit of the guide in the block is too loose for a lot of valve jobs.It is hard to maintain close run outs when the guide is only at best kinda tight in some situations.I can't remember using a ford pilot .I was just asking if he had a pilot for my own observations without giving a tutorial about how to do it.You well know that we always get someones own opinions of how it is done.Ford used the 1 1/32" pilot when you and i were in 3 cornered pants.It worked but we now know how to get a better job done with closer run outs.Using a serdi or some other kind of machining is the ultimate.I also don't use stones converted over to newway 25 years ago and haven't looked back.Your way is also well respected routine repair.That's my 2¢
R
40Pickup
Senior Member
Ol 'Ron, Can you show us the tools and procedure when you knurl guides. Some pics would be appreciated!
/ Jorgen
GOSFAST
Well-known member
Knurling valve guides is an excellent method of repair, absolutely nothing wrong with this procedure.
What I strongly recommend is installing "bronze" liners in the original guides. This helps avoid "sticking" valves during long periods of storage.
Today we have the option of installing the "inside-spiraled" liners. This gives the best of both worlds. You get both, "bronze-lined" and "knurled". They will literally last forever!
For the cast guides we have dedicated "knurling" lube used with the tool, after cleaning, the guides are reamed dry! We also have dedicated lube for the "bronze" liners, in this case the guides are reamed dry then the lube is used for "broaching". We do not use reamers on any "bronze" liner installation!
We are also in a fortunate position owning a head machining center capable of handling the Flathead blocks for valve/guide work, most head machines are dedicated to heads only! (A "highly-respected" forum member up here saw it a while back)
Thanks, Gary in N.Y.
P.S. Not certain if anyone is aware, but Oldsmobile had "knurled" guides from the factory. Without the "knurling", the valves would ALWAYS eventually hang in the guides, we learned this very early in engine building! Here's a shot of some of the valve guide equipment! Same fabricated tooling for "bronze" lining and "knurling". Also a shot of the "knurling" tool! With this fixture ALL the guide work can be done in a simple drill press!
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Getting back to the original questions----if the guides are actually in good shape why do anything? Use them.
With regard to stone grits--Those which are used outside of the sealing area, such as 30 and 60 degree, can be coarse. The sealing area(45 degree) probably needs both a coarse for "roughing" and a fine grit for finishing.
With regard to stone grits--Those which are used outside of the sealing area, such as 30 and 60 degree, can be coarse. The sealing area(45 degree) probably needs both a coarse for "roughing" and a fine grit for finishing.
Karl Wolf
Well-known member
I use fine stones for both the 30 and 45, the 60 can be course- use the 60 just enough to get a full line (mark of the stone) around the inside. I there's a lot of grinding, dress the stone at the end of each seat for an accurate finish... Most of the time, one dressing or maybe two will do a V8.
I keep a light spring under the (mandrel that carries the stone) this makes it possible to get the stone up to speed, then push down lightly to grind the seat...
Best to get a scrap head and practice on that... I turned my first cyl head into scrap.
Neway cutters are a better way to go. There's newer stuff too...
Karl
I keep a light spring under the (mandrel that carries the stone) this makes it possible to get the stone up to speed, then push down lightly to grind the seat...
Best to get a scrap head and practice on that... I turned my first cyl head into scrap.
Neway cutters are a better way to go. There's newer stuff too...
Karl