39 PU doors - removing creases?

malpais

malpais

Well-known member
My doors have some creases from close encounters with signs, farm equipment, etc. I can't get behind them. I've searched body work web sites, and all they say is stud weld and slide hammer out, then fill. I'm trying to keep body filler to a minimum and very thin where needed.

Any hints on removing creases?

Thanks,

Gordon
Livermore Colorado
 
When pulling the crease out try to use the hand tool as much as possible rather than the slide hammer. The slide hammer may stretch the metal more and then you'll have a heck of a mess.
 
I've got a welding tool for the studs/nails. I've used it before and had troubles with pulling up "nipples" and stretching the metal. I'll try the hand tool as you guys suggest. Saw on youtube where a guy made a clamp so he could pull on 4 or 5 studs at one time. Was thinking about trying that, but wondered if experienced body guys had a better method. Was thinking folks got these out somehow before we had these welding guns..........

Thanks for the thoughts.

Gordon
 
You COULD cut our the inner portion of the door so you can get to the crease from both sides. When the crease is out, weld the inner panel back in. I have done that a couple of times on cars I have restored. Just a thought.
 
Lawson,

Sounds like a good idea.

'Bout a week ago, I thought "cab's about ready for primer - I'll just throw on those nice clean bare metal doors". Now I'm resigned to a lot more work. Little cuttin' and weldin' won't hurt now.

I shoulda known!

Thanks, Gordon
 
There is a tool called a door dolly I have used , it has a long handle on it to go down inside the door. You put outward pressure on the crease from inside the door and unfold the metal from the outside using a wooden mallet along both sides of the crease. The wooden mallet will not stretch the metal. It takes time but if you do it right you will be able to metal finish it.
 
x2 on Lawsons suggestion. With that much work ahead of you it's the easiest and fastest way.
 
The multi-stud pullers are commercially available. I had to use one on one of the doors on my 39 where the bead had been pushed in...they work well for distributing the pull.
I am not looking at your door, but it might be a good job for one of the paint free dent removal companies. They have a variety of tools for working dents.
 
Everyone,

Thanks for all the replies. I've got a couple of doors with creases, so I may try more than one idea. Guess the door dolly was sort of what I was wondering about. Old fashioned body men did some pretty amazing stuff.

The multi-stud puller looks easy to experiment with.

Likely I will end up cutting out the inside of the door as a couple of you suggested - I'm not that great with dollies - of any kind.

Thanks much,

Gordon
 
oldandtired said:
The multi-stud pullers are commercially available. I had to use one on one of the doors on my 39 where the bead had been pushed in...they work well for distributing the pull.
I am not looking at your door, but it might be a good job for one of the paint free dent removal companies. They have a variety of tools for working dents.
Click to expand...

Actually, the dent removal companies have some neat rollers and levers...sliding dollies...but when presented with 18-20 gauge steel, these guys simply state they can't do it!

My son had one of those guys out to the house to fix my granddaughter's new Mustang. Great job, took 1/2 hour.
Then, son Rich asked about the simple fender dent in his '65 Galaxie.
The guy said, "Metal's too thick. Wouldn't even try it...they cautioned us at school about that."

The guy DID do a show & tell, and Rich took some pix of the tools...then made up a lever-roller from a piece of cold rolled 1/4" strap and a dual set of 2" sealed ball bearings at the end.
His tool is quite a bit heavier than the Dent guy's...
 
May I suggest two methods to work creases if you can drill a couple of holes in the inner panel in the area of the crease so you can get a flat blade screwdriver through the hole. Keep the blade on the crease,and then lighty tap the crease out . Don't pound the devil out of it all at once. Move along the crease bringing a little out at a time .go over it 2-3 times. 2nd we used to punch a hole throught the edge of the door under the door rubber ,[the rubber would hide the hole ] and then we used long prys to gently ,slowly pry out the crease. The tosion bars that were used to hold trunk lids up on cars of the 50ies worked well for this job if the reach wasn't too long # 3 method take a beat up cold chisel the has lumps on the hitting end reach through the access hole in the inner panel and pick the crease out. [not recommended for beginner. Al for now Johnny.
 
I have been straightening metal for over 60 years and it is quite simple . I use a tapered spring leaf putting pressure on the inside and a flat file on the out side bent to accomadate my hand and the file not only straightens the dent but cold shrinks it at the same time. I have the slide hammers and nail weld gun but I'm concerned I will mess up some thing so I just do it the way I know how. I hope this helps
 
Thanks for the reply - never thought of using a spring - most stuff I tried wasn't long enough.

I remember body guys in Ohio, when I was growing up, doing stuff like this, but didn't know what they used. Wish I had worked with some of 'em.

Was more interested in other stuff back then!

Gordon
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top