Inline tubing, poor workmanship

35 coupe

35 coupe

Senior Member
I posted a few weeks back about stainless brake tube that I could get to seat, 4 out of 5 tubes had bad fittings. I sent pics of the flares and they said there was nothing wrong but could not come up with an answer. Spoke to the asst. manager and he gave me a return number, so I sent them back cost 12.00. Well somebody turned the box away because it did not have the right r/a number on it. So I called and got a new r/a number, and sent them back again 12.00. They received them last week, so I called today, I was told there was nothing wrong with them, even with the shavings under flares, uneven flares. They would not replace them and refunded my money. 163.00 with shipping plus 24.00 shipping them back twice. They are refunding the price without any shipping, and they take out 20% restocking, so I am getting 114.00 back. I am out 73.00 because they do shoddy work to say the least.
 
As I also posted a couple weeks ago if you still want to go this route try Classic Tube in Lancaster New York. They have regular steel bolt on lines or for a little more stainless,I have put on three sets of their stainless steel lines,no problems.
 
No I am done with stainless, classic tube is almost double the price,but I guess you get what you pay for. I bought steel lines from napa, a flaring tool online and I am going to do my own. INLINE TUBE SELLS JUNK
 
There is no advantage to stainless line on a restored car that only gets driven on nice days. Its harder to flare and form

I've always made new lines from bulk stock from napa. Once you get the hang od flaring and bending its easy. I salvaged a set of lines off a 40 ford along time ago I use for patterns. Bend them up on a table and tweek them when installing.

The trick is buy a good flaring tool and bender. I like imperial eastman.
 
There (in my mind ) is only one place where it makes any sense to use stainless brake line.
In open wheel street rod type cars where you see the lines.
 
Here in pennsylvania they use salt brine on the roads, it even turns the sides of the cars white. I have a 2010 f150 4wd with 18000 miles on it and the chrome running boards are starting to rust in spots, and I plan on driving this 50 f1 as much as I can, spring, and into the winter as long as there is no snow on the roads, thats why I went to stainless.
 
After you make the new lines. Sand them lightly and clean them real well. Then buy a spray can of galv-brite zinc paint. Will last a long time. Its what fence guys use on galvanized pipe when welded at the joint for making gates ect. Just don't breath it
 
I've gotten the copper nickel alloy tubing at Autozone before. I like it because it comes in 25' rolls.

Red
 
The issue I've with SS, is the ability to seat the flare, SS is so dang tough, I wonder if you had the same issues?

In fact my flaring tool will not make a double flare in SS, hence why I stick to steel.

Best of luck.
 
I have used stainless tubing from Pure Choice Motorsports out of Az. It's pricey, but top quality aircraft grade. It is annealed so it flares easily. I use an Imperial 37 degree flaring tool.
 
Thats pretty sad Coupe,Not to hard to do,just did my 5 lines for about 50 bucks. These lines are coated. I used coat hangers to mock up bends then tweaked when installing. Took me about a day to bend and install. Good luck.
 
35 coupe said:
Here in pennsylvania they use salt brine on the roads, it even turns the sides of the cars white. I have a 2010 f150 4wd with 18000 miles on it and the chrome running boards are starting to rust in spots, and I plan on driving this 50 f1 as much as I can, spring, and into the winter as long as there is no snow on the roads, thats why I went to stainless.
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That's almost comical. If you don't drive when there is snow on the roads, then why would you need stainless?
 
They spray the salt brine before it snows on the interstates, and during the snow they put salt and it lasts for days, it coats everything. I live about 1/8 mile from interstate 81. And our local townships use salt
 
34PKUP said:
That's almost comical. If you don't drive when there is snow on the roads, then why would you need stainless?
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Here in northern delaware the state panics at the first threat of snow and coats every road in brine and salt. Then when the snow doesn't come evey car truck bus is solid white so I know what he is talking about. I see a lot of late model 4X4 trucks rotted out
 
Reds34 said:
I've gotten the copper nickel alloy tubing at Autozone before. I like it because it comes in 25' rolls.

Red
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Seems readily available now, I bought some at a local parts house. Jegs has it mail order. I used it on a SUV to replace a rusted line, very easy to work with, softer than steel line,
 
Use the stainless with a suitable double-flaring tool, annealing the ends before flaring.
A butane torch (around $10 at Harbor Freight) will anneal stainless nicely.
 
48 Merc said:
Use the stainless with a suitable double-flaring tool, annealing the ends before flaring.
A butane torch (around $10 at Harbor Freight) will anneal stainless nicely.
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How much heat..or how long? does it take to make it workable?

Thanks
 
34PKUP said:
That's almost comical. If you don't drive when there is snow on the roads, then why would you need stainless?
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Hey 34PKUP,
Where you at/from..nothing with your avatar? I'd guess to make a statement like this, that you do not live where salt is used extensively..as Coupes does!
Where do you think all that salt goes when the snow melts:) Hint not far from where it was put ! Ever see the indigenous animals on and alongside the roads....eating salt? Ever wonder why so many dead anmals along those roads? Well that salt, year after year..doesn't know any better than to stay out of a car...rain/shine/snow !
 
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