Rusty Cowl Repair Complete

Donvito

Member
After welding the last of my two cowl patches on last night, it was time to paint today. It's quite tricky, fixing the cowl with the fenders and running boards on. It took about two hours to mask the car off this morning. I took the car to the paint store two weeks ago and had them custom mix the colors (Kewanee and Elkpoint Green). The painting was easy and I got a good color match. Painted both sides of the cowl. The car is washed and dried now. Just have to put the cowl lights and molding back on.
Mike
 

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nice job, looks good in the pics. i would think that square would have stuck out without any blending. i am impressed
 
What type paint? single stage, base coat or other? It looks good!!

I bought the car this past December. The last owner had the car for nine years. It was painted before he got it, about 12 years ago. It was done in base/clear. I don't know what brand was used. My paint store just quit selling PPG, so they mixed the two basecoat colors in Lesonal. I had some PPG clearcoat left over from another job. I top coated with that. When the paint store sampled the paint with the computer gun, they got one reading on the trunk, and a slightly different one on the hood. I suggested they take a reading from the cowl. That reading came up different as well. I said go with the cowl reading. They mixed it and brushed it on a piece that I had cut off the car. It was a good match, so I went with that. I did a lot of auto painting in my younger years, so it's not new to me. It still is a challenge to spot paint something that old, when you don't know exactly what is on the car, but that's what I enjoy doing.
Mike
 
Very nice work, and I like your colors.:)
Much nice than the puke green on my 29 Tudor.:eek:
 

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Donvito,

You gave me hope that my spot paint needs can be blended in successfully.

My car is an early 28 phaeton, in some shade of Arabian Sand but painted so long ago that no records exist (mid 70's). I need to paint the top two hood pieces and the gas tank outer area, due to self inflicted damage (i.e., found out the hard way that the hood does not stay on the radiator hooks when engine is running).

I see you used a computer paint spectrometer and mixed the paint accordingly. I'm pretty sure my car does not have clearcoat. The previous owner made an attempt to have the main body come out as semi-gloss, while the fenders and trim are high gloss with clear coat.

Any suggestions?? Attached is a pic of the car.

Regards,

Martin Mindling Watertown Ohio *A 11739*
 

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Donvito,

You gave me hope that my spot paint needs can be blended in successfully.

My car is an early 28 phaeton, in some shade of Arabian Sand but painted so long ago that no records exist (mid 70's). I need to paint the top two hood pieces and the gas tank outer area, due to self inflicted damage (i.e., found out the hard way that the hood does not stay on the radiator hooks when engine is running).

I see you used a computer paint spectrometer and mixed the paint accordingly. I'm pretty sure my car does not have clearcoat. The previous owner made an attempt to have the main body come out as semi-gloss, while the fenders and trim are high gloss with clear coat.

Any suggestions?? Attached is a pic of the car.

Regards,

Martin Mindling Watertown Ohio *A 11739*

Martin,
I would take the car to a paint store and put the computer gun on it, like I did. If I was looking at your car in person, I would decide if single stage lacquer, or single stage urethane would be a better match. Your paint store can tell you that. If you lay the lacquer on and don't sand & buff, it will have a flat look. If you use urethane, you can add a flattening agent to the paint. Urethane is more durable. Try spraying test panels before you do the car. When you see what you are looking for, paint the car.
Mike
 
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