Allow me to vent!!!!!

Maclab58

Maclab58

Well-known member
I am in the process of restoring my 28 sport coupe and have so far spent a fair amount of money on a new engine, tires, interior, top, blah blah blah. I have replaced all of the gears, seals and bearings in the transmission, everything but the case and I must admit I am disappointed. I still experience grinding of gears trying to get it into first gear at a stop or trying to get into reverse. From first to third is not bad, double clutching works fine. At a stop, the trans gears are still spinning pretty fast in neutral. I am running 600 wt gear oil. Suggestions????
:(
 
Sounds like the clutch is dragging and not fully releasing.... How much "free pedal" do you have before the throwout bearing hits the clutch fingers?
 
You wouldn't possibly bent the clutch hub while aligning the transmission or engine. If so it will cause the clutch to drag while the engine is turning.
 
you need an inch or an inch and a half free play at the clutch pedal, the piolet bearing may be frozen to the main shaft and keeping it and clutch turning
 
How long do you wait before going from neutral to first once you push the clutch pedal down? It takes some time for the disc to slow down, especailly when it's warmed up.
 
Maclab58 said:
There is very little free pedal if any.
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You should be able to lightly push the pedal down about 1" then start to feel the heavy pressure of the 6 pressure plate fingers. Too little freeplay however won't cause the disc to continue spinning longer than it should. As soon as you push the pedal down the disc should start slowing down, however it still will take at least 5 to 10 seconds (with the engine at 500 RPM) before you can shift to first without some grinding.:eek:

Just think what the Model A would have been if Henry installed a synchro 4 speed overdrive.:D And a higher compression head.:)
 
Yo, McClab, Maybe it'll get better as it is used more & the disc lining gets it's newness polished off a little. Try slipping it a little, with care, of course. Bill W.
 
BILL WILLIAMSON said:
Yo, McClab, Maybe it'll get better as it is used more & the disc lining gets it's newness polished off a little. Try slipping it a little, with care, of course. Bill W.
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That's another possibility.:)
When I installed a new clutch disc in my 1971 Scout it was a little draggy. I figured once the little fibers wore a bit smoother it would be fine. After it sat compressed overnight it was fine from then on.:)

I'm still waiting to hear how long the delay is before shifting to first, and also the engine speed at idle.:confused:
 
I had a similar problem and it turned out to be a bad (frozen) pilot bearing that had also deeply scored the end of the main shaft. Replaced both and shifting is now much better.
 
Thanks or your input guys. Made me think about the obvious. Clutch is way out of adjustment. It is barely disengaged with the pedal on the floor let up 1/2inch and you're moving. As for idle speed very slow. I will adjust it this afternoon and report back.
 
Maclab58 said:
Thanks or your input guys. Made me think about the obvious. Clutch is way out of adjustment. It is barely disengaged with the pedal on the floor let up 1/2inch and you're moving. As for idle speed very slow. I will adjust it this afternoon and report back.
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Yep. you've found the problem. :)

Now you're going to find your clutch pedal isn't as easy to push as you thought.:eek:
 
Tom unless I missed something, he has zilch for free play, so it sounds like there is more to his problem than adjustment.
 
ABento said:
Tom unless I missed something, he has zilch for free play, so it sounds like there is more to his problem than adjustment.
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If the clutch engages at 1/2" off the floor, then he must have about 4" of freeplay.

I think in an earlier posting one of the terms was misinterpreted or missread, because I was also thinking someone mentioned no freeplay.
 
There could be problems with the pilot bearing as has been mentioned. When stopped and in neutral , I would first try shifting in to second gear and then shift in to first gear. That is what the long dead old guys taught me as a teenager. It works for me and has become a habit. You've got to remember that the model a transmission is an unsyncronized crash box that you have to develope a feel for.
 
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This is another possibility. I had the same problem and it was "REPO PARTS" The indents on the shifting fork shafts were machined wrong. (You know the old frame off restoration trick) If you have access to an original tower try putting it on and see if it makes a difference. Thats what I done and then took the rebuilt apart and found the differences. With out the other tower I may never have found it. I can't seem to get a photo to you here so email me and I will send you a picture showing the differences. bill.thomas@shaw.ca
Regards
Bill
 
Purdy Swoft said:
There could be problems with the pilot bearing as has been mentioned. When stopped and in neutral , I would first try shifting in to second gear and then shift in to first gear. That is what the long dead old guys taught me as a teenager. It works for me and has become a habit. You've got to remember that the model a transmission is an unsycronized crash box that you have to develope a feel for.
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Hey, I always did that too, although I never knew why. Not so much a concern with my F150 trans.

Steve
 
The Model A transmission is a fine/trouble free/basic unit. Sadly, it has been labeled a "CRASH BOX"!:) The "CRASHING CRAP" is only caused by the +*^#!^$+&^ IMPATIENT driver that's in a hurry to go PEE!:eek: GET SMART, go before you leave the old home place! Bill W.
 

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