Head Light Problem

Forker

Forker

Senior Member
My driver's side head lamp is not working, the passenger side works fine and using it I confirmed the bulb in the driver's side head light was just fine. All other lights work fine as well.

I checked all the contact points inside the lamo and all looked to be fine. I was wondering if there was a place to look next for the problem based on others experience?

My car is '30 Standard Phaeton.
Thanks
george
 
Forker said:
My driver's side head lamp is not working, the passenger side works fine and using it I confirmed the bulb in the driver's side head light was just fine. All other lights work fine as well.

I checked all the contact points inside the lamo and all looked to be fine. I was wondering if there was a place to look next for the problem based on others experience?

My car is '30 Standard Phaeton.
Thanks
george
Click to expand...

Twolight headlights. Both Hi and Low beams off? Probably yes from your description.

Probably a bad ground. Using a jumper cable (one side) directly back to the positive lead of the battery, check your lamp shell to be sure it's grounded. If in using the jumper cables you find you can light the light - then you know your problem is a poor ground.

A lot of restorers will actually run a separate small ground wire directly from the lamp socket exterior in the headlight back to a solid electrically connected part of the engine - this to get past grounding issues. But you probably want to go back through the conduit? How to get past the plug where the conduit connects?

I'll let others go on to the descriptions and remedies of the plug on the bottom of the lamp. NOT one of Henry's better ideas.

Joe K
 
Original or REPO.. I just changed ALL Mine from Repo BACK to originals because of this issue right here...The contacts touch all the time.
 

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Joe K said:
... A lot of restorers will actually run a separate small ground wire directly from the lamp socket exterior in the headlight back to a solid electrically connected part of the engine - this to get past grounding issues. But you probably want to go back through the conduit? How to get past the plug where the conduit connects?
... NOT one of Henry's better ideas.
Click to expand...
I'm sure I'm not alone, but I solved both problems by doing away with the connector alltogether and putting bullet connectors in it's place, along with running a separate ground wire that is grounded to the frame.
 
Thanks guys, I'll take a look at all options.

Mark, the contact points for the bulb look questionaable, kind of worn down...it may be as simple as that.
 
Forker said:
Thanks guys, I'll take a look at all options.

Mark, the contact points for the bulb look questionaable, kind of worn down...it may be as simple as that.
Click to expand...


Let me ask you when you said were not working do you mean burning out or the socket itself if not allowing you to light a bulb.. I should have asked that or did i miss it above?
 
Mark, the bulb is good, shows no sign of burning out and when plugged into the working lamp it worked just fine.
 
CarlG said:
I'm sure I'm not alone, but I solved both problems by doing away with the connector alltogether and putting bullet connectors in it's place, along with running a separate ground wire that is grounded to the frame.
Click to expand...

You just hit on what is probably the BEST solution. Nix the plug in the shell of the lamp. Land the conduit directly on a gutted out ferrule. Pull the harness end up into the shell and solder the cut off lamp wires to the wire harness directly.

And - bonus vowel here - removal of the plug connector gives room to pass the ground wire down to the frame or other landing point with a good ground.

BUT - some of these changes can be detected in judging. So don't expect to win the high point prize.

But you may have a better way to hide wires...

Joe K
 
I suggest you run a NEW Ground from the positive side of the 3/8 bolt on the frame to the ****** housing and then begin to trouble shoot starting at the battery to see if you have an open anywhere
 
Bottom of the bulbs sometimes show evidence of heat from poor contact while in the on position. The head lamps are heavey and subject to more vibration than a Harley tail light. Remove the bulb and clean the contact area, Use a soldering Iron and a little drop of resin solder to improve the end of the bulbs conatcts,
That and make sure the ground is good. I usually remove the buckect completely and clean the headlamp bar socket and the pivot on the bucket as they are prone to rust from the rain.
 
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