new u joint

A

afuncar

Senior Member
I need to change the u joint in my car, are the new manufacture o.k. or should I be looking for a good used one.:confused:
 
New are made by Dana/Spicer IIRC, and are identical to the Ford upgrade from the "ring style" to the "yoke style" which happened around 1930ish?

In fact, Dana/Spicer or their ancestor may have made them for Ford.

New are OK. A little variable in production IIRC as I was looking to make a mix & match to go from the Model AA transmission to an overdrive to an AA rear axle. I was having trouble sourcing the right parts.

And Tam couldn't help me at that time. And he complained about not being able to get Model A UJs. Available is available and non-available just the opposite.

But Tam dug around in the back room and found something. "Here," he says. "Can you use that?" A yoke style U joint. Derned if it wasn't EXACTLY what I was looking for.

"You can have it for what I have in it." Tam charged me like $6 for it.

How can you beat a supplier who does things like that?

New, if you can find it, will be just fine.

Joe K
 
I have found many used U J,s at swap meets etc that were in perfect shape for just a few $.As long as they have lube,they seem to last forever.28-31 UJ,s are riveted together,while the late 31-48,s have steel bushings & are rebuildable & all are interchangeable.
 
Thanks for info but because i'm in a bit of a rush to get my car back on the road I purchased a new u joint from old car center. the new u joint feels really tight and i'm wondering if I need to soak it in oil for awhile to lube it before I pack and install it.
 
Lubed for life - just put it in. You may not have to fill the spherical joint at the front of the torque tube with grease, although I always do.

Just think of all the 4wd mudrunners and other cars and trucks with exposed UJs.

What you're feeling are the seals.

Joe K
 
afuncar said:
Thanks for info but because i'm in a bit of a rush to get my car back on the road I purchased a new u joint from old car center. the new u joint feels really tight and i'm wondering if I need to soak it in oil for awhile to lube it before I pack and install it.
Click to expand...

I would squirt oil on the moving parts and work it around for a while, then soak it in oil. Be sure to pack the joint full of grease and coat the round housing where it pivots. Don't forget the inner part of the housing and both gaskets.:eek:
 
I tried packing with a red bearing grease [nitro lube] after first oiling joints with nitro lube oil, it made a little difference moves a little easier but still feels tighter than I feel it should. I'm soaking it in a can of auto trans fluid to see if that helps, will try repacking it before installing. Should I try one of the thinner bearing greases, or just pack it with the heavier red nitro lube grease that looks similar to the grease Tom used in the picture posted to show how he packs a u joint. Thanks for info it's greatly appreciated.
 
That new ujoint will limber up in no time under load. They sure are easier to install than one flopping around, even one packed with grease.
 
While we are on the subject, does anyone know if a quality rebuild kit is currently being offered for the rebuildable style Ford U-joints? I have several good ones, but have given thought to rebuilding some of the u-joints that are worn out. Rod
 
I wish I had a good original but don't have time to look right now so new will have to do. I've soaked the new one in a coffee can filled with auto trans fluid for a day and its starting to move a lot easier, I've added some lite weight synthetic oil to fluid to see if that will help, althow I think it's probably o.k. to use now. thanks for helpful info.
 
Be sure to use a "flow able" grease, available from any tractor supply and small engine repair shops.
 
Corn Head Grease is the best I have used so far for the U-Joint. You can Purchase it at most John Deere Dealers. Its Viscosity is light Grease when it first comes out of the Gun or tube. When it warms up it acts like heavy Gear Oil, after cooling down back to Grease, their fore the U-joint takes a 100% Bath when you drive the Car or Truck. Remove the Speedometer Gear Housing on your drive shaft and fill the u-joint housing until it squirts out the speed-hole. I used a whole tube to fill the Cavity. It cost me $ 4.50 a Tube
I use a air assisted grease gun to install it, Saves on the arms. Check out this link http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UEwk_sYP6A8
 
I live in very residential area,I'm going to check for a John Deere dealer or supply shop in sourounding area and hopefully get some cornhead grease. thanks for help
 
You should check the joint to see if it will move off center some. It must be able to move some to compensate for slight misalignment of the center of the joint. It should not be solid like a modern joint! Many suppliers sell the v8 joint for model As. I would not use it. Ron W
 
The u joint I have is the one from 1928-1948 may be the v8 one., when I went to purchase it I was told there is only one replacement joint for both v8 and A. thanks for info I may contact a friend who may have a good used one.
 
If you can't find a good used one, you may be able to modify the V8 one by taking 1/16 off the inside end of each cup to provide the movement necessary. The new one I bought was such poor quality (splines not centered) that I found a good used one and have had no problem. Ron W
 
Ron thanks for suggestion, I like your idea about taking a little off the cups,I actually tried to do that yesterday but after removing springs I couldn't get the cups out. I did a little tapping with light hammer and the trans side of joint now moves free without heavy drag. Unfortunately the driveshaft end is still a bit stiff, wish I could get it apart to fit it and prelube, I 'm going to look for cornhead grease today and check with friend to see if he has a good used joint. thanks for all the info and suggestions.
 
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