Torque tube cleaning & shaft coupling

[flat-v8]

I have never done anything like this before, so it might not be the correct way, I just used what I had in garage, it works! Torque tube cleaned up and salvaged the drive shaft, it was a good day! Cutting the coupling was a real job, took several wheels, that thing is tough!

 

[V8COOPMAN]

Instead of all that cutting of the coupling, why didn't ya just "whang" that pin out of there and pull (coax) it all apart? DD

 

[Scott H in Wheaton]

I cleaned out my torque tube pretty much the same way. Felt like I was packing an old timey canon to fire it.
Although I was working on mine 2 years ago I don't recall having any trouble with a coupling, but I did have a sheared pin I had to replace.

 

[39portlander]

Nice. The "sewer main" picture #4, look's brand new

 

[flat-v8]

Shoot, whacking the pin was the first thing I tried, after grinding the head off, hit it super hard with a round cold chisel slightly smaller than the pin hole, NADA, that thing was seized together and rusted out! Maybe with some heat, maybe. I thought cutting it into was the answer, it worked, the shaft will be fine with a new coupling.

 

[Gary in La.]

A word of caution on cleaning the torque tubes. IF it is the later tube with the center bearing do not use any type of solvent as it may attack the rubber sleeve of the bearing and it will come loose from it's positioning sleeve in the tube. I know of one instance where the individual used varsol or something similar and the bearing failed within a 1000 miles.

 

[hardtimes]

Shoot, whacking the pin was the first thing I tried, after grinding the head off, hit it super hard with a round cold chisel slightly smaller than the pin hole, NADA, that thing was seized together and rusted out! Maybe with some heat, maybe. I thought cutting it into was the answer, it worked, the shaft will be fine with a new coupling.

NICE work ! Now for that bearing in there yet. Don't know if the bearing can be had new, but if it can, I'd go for knocking the old out and put in new. Lots of crud/rot around that bearing ! It's pretty easy to remove, just don't know about new availability. See that broom handle the you've got in one pic? Take a long handled wire brush...thousand mile an hour tape it to that handle and that does nice thorough job! Any rust chips/whatever left will likely later cause heartache also! Good luck

 

[PeteVS]

Take pictures when you remove the axle housings!

(This is a link to Flat's previous thread... http://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=99954 )

 

[Walt Dupont--Me.]

Skip Hanney has those center bearings and directions how to install them. Walt

 

[JM 35 Sedan]

Center bearing in torque tube can be a difficult item to find. NOS can be expensive if/when you do find them. Skip Haney sells a replacement center bearing if you need one. Keep the progress posts with pictures coming. As you learn so will others. I am interested in seeing what the inside of the banjo looks like .

 

[flat-v8]

Take pictures when you remove the axle housings!

I'm waiting for the spring spreader to arrive, then I'll take it all apart, I've never done this, so it is exciting, tearing into a 75 year old rear end! I'm sure it is a once in my lifetime job. I was really worried and concerned about that center bearing assembly, but after cleaning out the torque tube, I rigged up a 3\4 ridgid pipe, that was a little loose, then wrapped duct tape around it until it fit snug in bearing, greased it up, then spun it with pipe, worked grease back & forth & it feels good! no bump or drag, I did find an OEM bearing, it was not cheap at all, over $100 If I really had to I would replace it, but I'm sure the one in there is ok.

 

[Uncle Bob]

I'm with PeteVS...........gonna bet that rear end had the open end pointed skyward for awhile and allowed water in (too common a mistake). Rust never sleeps...........

 

[Gary in La.]

Just a quick note. It's not usually the bearing rollers that go bad but the rubber outer sleeve that is vulcanized to the bearing. Remember that the only real thing holding the bearing in place is the compression fit of the rubber in the driveshaft sleeve.