Complete Brakes From Snyders

A31Woody

A31Woody

Senior Member
Has anyone purchased the complete brakes (no exchange) including new hub, new drum, rebuilt backing plate, etc. from Snyders? Any thoughts on the quality?

I'm pricing out redoing my braking system and it looks like the Snyder's kit at $680ish per wheel isn't a terrible deal... esp when you factor in the time needed to do the work.
 
Most people do not realize what all is involved in rebuilding brakes correctly but generally view that as too much $$ to spend.
 
What are your issues with your brakes? Are they that far gone? I've replaced the linings on my 28 and 29 and I've learned quite a bit during the process and really is not that hard.
 
Another option ;
I just finished a complete rebuild of my brakes . All Snyder parts. Snyders put my hubs on new C I Drums and furnished all new hardware and linings . A club member put the hardware on my backing plates and the linings on my brake shows and installed all this on my 31 S/W . Drums including shipping ( $900 ) ,brake hardware and rear wheel bearings ($450 ) ,labor ($400) . Total $1750 . Snyders did a great job and did a one day turn around on hub to drum installation.
 
I had Snyder's do my brakes last summer. Here are some pictures I took before and during installation. I just have a rolling chassis at the moment so I have not been able to test them out. As far as looks and quality they seem very nice. They were a bit expensive but I figured I'd have them done completely now so I most likely won't have to deal with them for the rest of MY life.

Hope these help you out a bit!

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Franchise_24 said:
What are your issues with your brakes? Are they that far gone? I've replaced the linings on my 28 and 29 and I've learned quite a bit during the process and really is not that hard.
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My fronts are fine. I put cast iron drums on the original hubs maybe 500-700 miles ago. Now it's time for the rear. My current drums are original type steel with reinforcing bands and the key-way in the hubs are worn pretty badly. Figure I might as well do the backing plates, etc. if I'm going that far with the rebuild.
 
I went to the Snyders site and the rear kit A-2022RN was listed as $ 410.00 with exchange. What did they quote you would get for $ 680.00? Are you upgrading with Ted's floaters?
 
A31Woody said:
Who is asking about juice brakes?
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X TWO...who said ANYTHING about 'juice brakes' :confused:
Let's give posters a hand when they ask for it, not the back of hand!

Hey Woody,
Sounds like you are on the right track and making good progress:) ! In most cases the original drums are worn and not with the stopping power/ benefits of new style drums, but you probably already know that. I have done almost exactly what you are doing, but without Snyders help. I think that you can have substantial savings, if you utilize club member help. I'm not a club member, but got the help of the club pres , when I did my mech brakes. Saved lots of money..even after paying him, and my A stops on a dime. The improved drums are great improvement..alone IMO. Just a thot/suggestion: Have you found grease on any of rear brakes when you took them off? If so, you might consider NOT lubing thru the ZERK that ford put in for that job. FYI, ford eliminated that zerk later...guys were lubing thru that till brakes were lubed too:D! Can ruin a new brake job quickly by doing such excessive lube. When you install the rear bearing...properly lubed and PMd, that will out last us,eh! Good luck
 
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I've asked questions and had an answer in 1/2 hour and others took much, much longer. Be patient and you should get more responses.
 
Ross/Kzoo said:
I've asked questions and had an answer in 1/2 hour and others took much, much longer. Be patient and you should get more responses.
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Hey Ross,
Amen to that! Oftentimes nowadays...it takes time to cogitate/ruminate and get last remaining cells to activate:) !
 
A31Woody said:
My fronts are fine. I put cast iron drums on the original hubs maybe 500-700 miles ago. Now it's time for the rear. My current drums are original type steel with reinforcing bands and the key-way in the hubs are worn pretty badly. Figure I might as well do the backing plates, etc. if I'm going that far with the rebuild.
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Hey Woody,
I just reread this comment by you,i.e.- 'keyway worn pretty badly' ! Made me ask...how's the keyway in axle (worn/cracks) :eek:, and what made this situation occur? By chance, did you check the axle torque prior to taking drums off and/or were drums...'easy' to get off, indicateing looseness? Rear drums should be torqued/retorqued to at least 100 lbs +. Lots of stress/torque applied there on regular basis when in operation. Lack of proper PM there can also affect proper brake operation and be expensive eventually. Good luck!
 
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I didn't check the torque, but the drums were very easy to get off (no need to use the tool). The axels look ok, but the hubs have always been sloppy / loose.
 
A31Woody said:
I didn't check the torque, but the drums were very easy to get off (no need to use the tool). The axels look ok, but the hubs have always been sloppy / loose.
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'no need for (wheelpuller) tool' ! Yikes..sounds familiar, as I just got a '36 coupe and pulled the rear hubs off by hand also. I ended up replacing the rear bearings/seals. Thank goodness the axles were in good shape...the reason? Well, the car was parked for 15 years after it was ...'restored' and not driven. That rebuilt rearend wouldn't have lasted long being driven without the 200+ lbs torque required. Very important to put the drums/axle interface back properly and retorque till settled!
 
Tom Wesenberg said:
I wouldn't go to 200# + on the axle nut torque. I'd go about 100 to 125 with a smooth, clean, dry axle and good key.
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Hey Tom,
If you reread my message, you'll see that I'm talking the rear axle nut torque on a '36 coupe of mine and a similar problem/situation and his A as stated earlier in another posting. In other works...200+ on '36 and 100+ on A axles,eh:)!
 
Got my drums from Snyders 4 years ago and club member helped swedgethe drums to my hubs.

Turned the drums and had the shoes arced by a local shop.

Worth every penny.
 
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