Typically trunk locks were keyed the same as glove box locks if the car was so equipped. Ignition and door locks were keyed the same except for roadsters. Tire locks in many cases were an accessory, sold by the dealers and were not keyed the same as any other lock on the car. I can cut keys by code for most Ford locks up to 1964. If the lock does not have a code # (33 -35 tire locks among others) I can usually make a key but I have to have the lock to do so.
'36 standard coupe spare tire lock
- Thread starter jerry/tx
- Start date
charles in east texas
Senior Member
Another dead end, but another challenge. Trunk lock and spare tire lock would have been to easy. Charles
blucar
Well-known member
For future reference/info I am supplying the following:
I dug out my two extra spare tire locks yesterday.. They are both "Hurd" locks with the small glove box style of key.. See pix.
The lock cylinder is secured into the lock housing with a set screw that is located within the retainer spring groove, that secures the lock assembly to the tire cover.. See pix.
The locking bars are not secured in the lock position when the lock is locked.. The locking bars are always in the locked position.. The two locking bars are spring loaded, they can be depressed with very little effort..
Of course if the tire cover is locked onto the mount, there is no way to access the back side of the lock to depress the locking bars.
Carefully drilling the lock cylinder with a Dremel tool will allow the lock to be turned to unlock.. Removal and replacement of the lock cylinder is then quite easy with no damage to the lock housing..
I dug out my two extra spare tire locks yesterday.. They are both "Hurd" locks with the small glove box style of key.. See pix.
The lock cylinder is secured into the lock housing with a set screw that is located within the retainer spring groove, that secures the lock assembly to the tire cover.. See pix.
The locking bars are not secured in the lock position when the lock is locked.. The locking bars are always in the locked position.. The two locking bars are spring loaded, they can be depressed with very little effort..
Of course if the tire cover is locked onto the mount, there is no way to access the back side of the lock to depress the locking bars.
Carefully drilling the lock cylinder with a Dremel tool will allow the lock to be turned to unlock.. Removal and replacement of the lock cylinder is then quite easy with no damage to the lock housing..
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mrtexas
Well-known member
You are correct! Didn't know that and hadn't tried it either!
Woody Mike
Junior Member
Just fixed 36 spare lock yesterday. With tire and cover locked on carrier but off of car, turn spare over and look inside,you'll see a small cover, maybe 24 gauge, with a chisel cut small spot welds, lift up cover, then you can reach in with screw driver and push in the locking tabs that are spring loaded, that releases lock & cone. You can then finish removing cover plate and never have that problem again. After reassmbly you can't see anything wrong.Took me 5 min. to have lock out.
JM 35 Sedan
Well-known member
That is sort of what I was describing in post #16 but not being familiar with the details of how the '36 spare tire is constructed, I was not aware of the small cover you mention removing. Maybe Ford put that there to deter releasing those spring loaded tabs. That's basically how I got the locked cap off my '35 but their was no sheet metal piece blocking my screw drivers from getting in to release three spring loaded pins. It took three hands and three screwdriver's but we got it done. Now the bad news was there were no numbers anywhere on this cylinder to cut a key to, so it required removing they pins & springs and re-keying to another key for this car. Working on these old cars can be fun
