My 32 Project - T5 Problem Resolution

[TomT/Williamsburg]

Well,, it's been a journey to say the least. Most here on the 'Barn know of my 32 project, that I had it all together and running and it would not go into gear. I then pulled the motor and trans, replaced the 9" clutch disc with a unit from Dick Spadaro, replaced the t-out bearing with Cornhusker's unit that has the sleeve built into it, made a new arm extension for the clutch pedal push rod with the help of jacksanddeuces here on the 'Barn and HAMB, and put it all totally back together. Started it up and it still would not go into gear.

Jacksanddeuces and I brain stormed a bit as he's a real 32 Ford hotrod guru and he has worked his way thru issues with the T5, and he suggested I move the T5 trans back away from the bellhousing using say 2 washers for each bolt location, saying that perhaps the clutch disk could not go far enough back on the shaft to disengage totally. I went on vacation for over 3 weeks adn I finally got cought up and I did exactly what Jack said and ....

...she runs, drives, and I even took it around the block. Let me tell you, what a feeling - my wife said that my face wasn't big enough for my smile. It is all hot rod and I really love it. Jack nailed it and I called to thank him. I was at a point where I had no clue what to do.

Now for the solution - I think I will make (have made I should say as I have no real facility to do this) a 2-pc aluminum shim that I can put in place without pulling the motor and trans. This shim will be either 1/8 or 3/16ths inch thick, allowing for clutch wear.

No for my question: has anyone done this and have a pattern or does anyone have a Speedway/Offy flattie to T5 adapter laying around that they could make a pattern of for me, complete with bolt hole locations, etc, for a 59AB? Or, a 59AB laying around with it's oil pan attached - that would be the same thing. I know I read of someone doing something similar if not the same.

Sorry I do not have any new pics as yet but I will jump on that tonight. I've attached a few of the older pics for those who are new to my project.

Thank you one and all for your comments, help and support .....

 

[TonyM]

Congratulations!!!
Can't wait to see the new pics.


TonyM

 

[Vic Piano]

Tom, Sounds like fun, glad you got it in gear... Are you game to drive her down to the Moonshine Festival in October? Vic

 

[TomT/Williamsburg]

Tom, Sounds like fun, glad you got it in gear... Are you game to drive her down to the Moonshine Festival in October? Vic

Thanks, Vic - it's been a journey and it's still continuing. As for the Moonshine Festival, you never know. I know I heard some noise in the right rear area in my ride around the block, above the open headers. That's not good but I'm hoping it's brake related vs something more serious like having to pull the rear. We'll see ....

 

[TomT/Williamsburg]

Congratulations!!!
Can't wait to see the new pics.


TonyM

Thanks, Tony!

 

[Vic Piano]

Thanks, Vic - it's been a journey and it's still continuing. As for the Moonshine Festival, you never know. I know I heard some noise in the right rear area in my ride around the block, above the open headers. That's not good but I'm hoping it's brake related vs something more serious like having to pull the rear. We'll see ....

Tom, as we all know, the fun never ends... Hope to see you in October for the Moonshine Festival. Vic

 

[82ndscotty]

on the model a the stub on the main drive gear sometimes is too long bottoming into the crank. cure shorten it. Scotty

 

[TomT/Williamsburg]

on the model a the stub on the main drive gear sometimes is too long bottoming into the crank. cure shorten it. Scotty

Thanks for mentioning this but this I already knew and had already shortened the shaft accordingly.

 

[Pothole Jim]

Thanks for mentioning this but this I already knew and had already shortened the shaft accordingly.

Tom, did you shorten the bearing cone? In many cases the the bearing cone needs to be shortened in addition to the input shaft. When the clutch is depressed the throwout bearing hits the nose cone and stops the complete dis-engagement of the clutch.

 

[TomT/Williamsburg]

Thanks for your response - yes, the bearing cone is probably what needs to be shortened. I've done this conversion before for the 40 coupe in my avatar and I never had this much trouble. It went in and it worked with little or no modifications, and that was over 6 years ago and 30K+ miles.

What I'm trying to do is to not have to pull the motor and trans again, at least not now, So the shim is my best route at this point in time.

Thanks again for chiming in

 

[DICK SPADARO]

Tom, your post indicates that you are still having issues with the disengagement of your transmission. There are only two areas where there is any interference. The first that you addressed was the pilot snout being slightly longer than necessary and needed to be shortened. The second area is the original input shaft collar is long and may bump the clutch hub. This will vary slightly in spacing based upon the conversion you choose. The clutch disc does not move fore and aft on the input shaft, it indexes itself upon the flywheel position and the input shaft splines.

The disc that you purchased from me is actually thinner at the hub than a stock Ford disc to allow the crank bolts to clear.

The only other portion of the transmission that protrudes into the clutch area is the stock input shaft collar. If this collar presses against the clutch disc hub it will apply forward pressure to the disc to slightly engage the disc to the flywheel and make it turn. This would cause you to have difficulty engaging the gears when stopped.

Since you said that you had success spacing the trans rearward this would lead me to believe that the transmission you are using has a long snout that is rubbing the hub, by spacing the trans rearward this removes the pressure and every thing works as intended. I realize that pulling the engine is an additional job but to repair the issue would be better in the long run than making a spacer. Since you have run the unit, upon removal you should see some wear or rub marks indicating the offending part.

 

[jackandeuces]

Tom, as we brain stormed, shortening the input collar ,1/4 inch, is the best permanent fix the spacer would be easy way out while sorting any other problems ..

 

[Hamtown Al]

Tom, use duct tape, appropriately narrowed, from each bolt (with washers) to the next bolt to "seal" the bellhousing area and go riding. "Special shims" IS washers. Ask Famous Jack. Go riding and keep smiling and make perm fix when get time.
ENJOY the ride! Congratulations. Al

 

[TomT/Williamsburg]

Well, I've thought it over and I'm going to pull the motor and trans one last time and do it right. I'll get the collar shortened. drill an inspection hole in the Speedway adapter, and then make a cover plate just so I can see what's happening when and if I need to.

Pulling the motor and trans, again, is not what I wanted to do, hence the shim idea. But, it would always be in the back of my mind of what I didn't do. I've got the time and Lord knows I've got enough money thrown into this - it's just a better thing for me to do at this time.

Thanks Dick and Jack for your thoughts, your experience, and your help.

Pictures are coming, I promise ....

 

[Grandadeo]

Congrats Tom, looking forward to seeing that '32, in picture form for now but someday soon out on the blacktop somewhere.

Lee

 

[av8paul]

Tom,
How about some photos of what you find and also the modification to the collar. A picture of the inspection hole would be a help to me as I thought it would be something I'd like to have.

Thanks for sharing your problem and how you are trying to solve it.

 

[TomT/Williamsburg]

Hey, AV8paul, good to hear from you. I will get some pics out, I promise - I have started taking things apart as the whole engine bay portion is stripped and the engine/trans ready to come out. I just need to remove the driveshaft and unbolt a few things underneath and I should have everything out tonight or tomorrow AM.

I'll keep all posted ....

 

[av8paul]

Hey, AV8paul, good to hear from you. I will get some pics out, I promise - I have started taking things apart as the whole engine bay portion is stripped and the engine/trans ready to come out. I just need to remove the driveshaft and unbolt a few things underneath and I should have everything out tonight or tomorrow AM.

I'll keep all posted ....

That's what I like about this place. Sharing info. What did we do before the internet? we fumbled around until we got lucky, I guess.
Thanks Tom.

 

[fordy_nine]

"What did we do before the internet? we fumbled around until we got lucky, I guess."

We did some stupid, dangerous or otherwise hazardous things we're not proud of - but that is the heart of hot-rodding.....Bob L

 

[TomT/Williamsburg]

OK - I got things squared away for this problem, anyway.

First two pics show my 2-washer shims - this is how I drove the car around the block the first time.

Second two pics show with the motor/trans out - you can now get the idea how small an amount of space was required to get the needed clearance.

The next pics show the before and after on the snoot once it was removed - we decided to go a 3 washer thickness allowing for some clutch disk wear. That turned out to be .158 thou. A friend of mine, Ron, had the needed equipment and was nice enough to do it for me. It didn't take long once we were set up.

The following pics show my new inspection hole and cover. I used a 1" hole saw and some plastic I had around to cover it. I can lift the plastic to pear inside.

Finally, I got things back together, got most everything installed (no headlights and headkight bar as yet) and I took it for a short ride around the block (open headers right now so not a long ride, I can tell you). Problem solved!

Now on to the next issue, the noise in the right rear wheel area - I'm hoping it's brake related and not something that will make me pull the rear.

Thank you one and all for your help ....