Oil Change

brien

brien

Member
I am about to take delivery on my newly restored 1951 Ford F-3. It has the Flathead V-8 I have had the same oil in the crankcase for the last 10 years. We started it the other day and the valves are telling me they want fresh oil. What brand and type oil would you recommend I put in the engine to do the best job of waking up the valves, the pistons and the crank, for overall lubrication after its Rip Van Winkle act?

I always used a 1040 Castrol but was wondering if there were any other oils that would be better for lubricating the engine after a 10 year sleep.

Thanks gang..
 

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41ford1 said:
How did it run on the 10-40? Quiet? Good oil presure. If yes on both use it again.
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Sure it ran great on 1040. It's still a bit cold here in CT but the 1040 should do well. I was merely curious if there are any speical oils out there that would lubricate the engine better after such a long hiatus from "engine duty" Maybe an additive?
 

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put a little MMO in the gas tank and in the engine oil-will help with lubing those sleepy valves and run the castrol
 
maybe even get one of those ampco top oilers to add a little MMO while it's running...along with MMO in the oil, etc.....good luck....Mike
 
Save on the cost of the AMPCO and just add 4oz to ten gals. It will save your tank and all the way to your valves. IT WORKS!
 
Maybe some break in oil. Like used when a engine is new. They have higher levels of zinc to help with initial wear. Run it for the first 100 miles or so then change it out.
 
Thanks GM Look for it at the Brooklyn Truck Show at the end of June...I'll be there on Friday afternoon. Truck all weekend..
 
jkeesey said:
Maybe some break in oil. Like used when a engine is new. They have higher levels of zinc to help with initial wear. Run it for the first 100 miles or so then change it out.
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I bought my normal Castrol 10-40 but also an additive to loosen up and lubricate the valves and pistons. I don't want to loosen up too much sludge at once. I would rather do it gradually over several oil changes....this way the heavier stuff will drain along with the oil rather than just collecting on the bottom of the pan. A gradual approach is much better than a radical one in this case.
 
The break in oil isn't high detergent its high in zinc which cushions the impact on your rotating parts such as valve tappets.
 
jkeesey said:
The break in oil isn't high detergent its high in zinc which cushions the impact on your rotating parts such as valve tappets.
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The oil additive I bought is a zinc additive and will likely act to cushion the Rip Van Winkle parts...
 
Good call. Personally I've never done anything special when it comes to the oil on a fire up after a long slumber. I've been reading about the different oils and thought it sounded pretty good. I may try them from now on.
 
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