how to spread leaf spring

35 coupe

Senior Member
What is the best way to spread the leafs out to get the shackles in the rear radius rods. I have to spread the eyes on the leaf about 3 inches. Thanks for the help. I am doing this on a 35 5 window.
 
Here's some pics of spreaders made by Barn members using all-thread. Dennis/Arkansas
 

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any spreader design for a reverse eye? thanks. i changed front spring to a reverse eye just using two trolley jacks to lower the spring eyes when shackles removed and then jacked them up again, worked ok not sure about this on the rear thou?
 
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My advice is to install or remove the main leaf only, particularly if the eyes have been reversed. The spring should be assembled or disassembled while the main leaf is assembled to the front or rear end. But, that's only my take on it.
NEVER USE A "C" CLAMP to take a spring apart or put it back together!
 
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be very careful, there TONS of energy stored in a spring and many have been hurt. I suggest you check with a regional group of the V8 Club and see if you can borrow a KR Wilson spring spreader from a member. this tool is made to do the job.
 
When we installed a set of reversed eye springs in our '47 Convertible, we used a floor jack and bottle jack to align and install each side of the spring (one side at a time). This worked well and we had no problems with the installation on the front or rear spring.
 
Thanks everybody, I have everything off the frame so there is no weight to push against, doing a frame up ametuer restore. Thanks again.
 
Reinstalling a fully assembled front or rear spring is one of the more dangerous jobs you can do on a EV8, be carefull!!
 
Here's some pics of spreaders made by Barn members using all-thread. Dennis/Arkansas


This one is my design. The pipe is 1" ID, the all-thread is also 1" coarse threads - I would not use anything smaller. The large nuts and washers are hardware items. The all-thread is cut into two 18"
pieces (half of 3') with one end of each ground to a point to fit into
the notch in the spring/eyes. They are also cross-drilled for a bolt
and the safety straps are 1" x 1/8" and prevent the spring from
taking flight should it slip out - this is especially important on the
32-34 curved rear springs where the spring eyes are not parallel.
The pipe "just clears" the center banjo housing. I "lifted" the safety
strap idea from the original KRW spring spreader.

I had always intended to install bearings to make turning the nuts
easier.... (another in a long line of procrastination...) A shorter
pipe allows also using it on front springs.

The removal procedure is: Expand the spring until the shackles on
ONE END can be removed, then RELAX the spring before disconnecting the second end. DO NOT remove both ends with the
spring expanded.

Installation is: Connect one end of the spring/shackles, then expand the spring until the second shackles can be connected, then
relax the spring. DO NOT expand a spring that is not connected at
one end.

An expanded spring has alot of pent-up energy just waiting to be
released - with potentially disasterous results. Be safe!!!

E-mail me for exact specs of all the parts.
 
When we installed a set of reversed eye springs in our '47 Convertible, we used a floor jack and bottle jack to align and install each side of the spring (one side at a time). This worked well and we had no problems with the installation on the front or rear spring.

i did my front this way, will attempt the rear now.
 
Old ford manuals for Model A showed placing a wooden block on top of the axle and under the spring with a little grease on it. Then jacking up the car would bring the spring closer to the spring perch hole.

I do realize that this would not work for 32 and up rear axles due to the spring behind set up, or 35 and up fronts due to the spring in front, so the spring spreader is the way to go. But just in case you were dealing with a set up with spring over the axle, this method can get you out of a jam if needed. The spring spreader in my opinion is safer though.

CVSTL response shows how do spread a reversed eye spring.
 
I bought one of these from Snyders. Work well and I felt safe! Just replaced a shackle on my A the other night.

07430.jpg


I've done the bottlejack and block on reverse eye springs, worked fine. The spring was installed of course.

cvstl - thats a great setup. Like how everything is bolted over the spring.
 
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On a reversed eye spring I tighten two c-clamps on the spring and remove the center bolt. Evenly loosen the two c-clamps until the tension is relieved. Now you can easily install the main leaf by hand. Get your self a nice long piece of all thread and some nuts and washers. I would get the extra thick nuts, the more threads the better, grade 8 nuts might be a good idea also. It would not hurt to double nut it so there is a backup nut behind the ones holding the tension incase their threads fail. Put your c-clamps back on and remove the all-thread and in stall the centering bolt. This should only be a ten-minute job on a bare chassis.
 
On a reversed eye spring I tighten two c-clamps on the spring and remove the center bolt. Evenly loosen the two c-clamps until the tension is relieved. Now you can easily install the main leaf by hand. Get your self a nice long piece of all thread and some nuts and washers. I would get the extra thick nuts, the more threads the better, grade 8 nuts might be a good idea also. It would not hurt to double nut it so there is a backup nut behind the ones holding the tension incase their threads fail. Put your c-clamps back on and remove the all-thread and in stall the centering bolt. This should only be a ten-minute job on a bare chassis.

This is also how we do them...
 
Here's some pics of spreaders made by Barn members using all-thread. Dennis/Arkansas

The above pictures posted by Dennis, that do not show a spreader pictured on a blue cloth background, are pictures of the spreader that I designed and made. I used 3/4" all thread to make that spreader and I would like to caution you folks now who may be thinking about making your own, DO NOT USE 3/4" ALL THREAD!!

I am presently redoing that spreader using 1" all thread because the 3/4" material is not strong enough and will bend. As others have said, be careful spreading those springs using any type spreader or method. It can be a dangerous job no matter how it's done.
 
Thanks John for the heads-up on the size of threaded rod! Dennis/Arkansas
The above pictures posted by Dennis, that do not show a spreader pictured on a blue cloth background, are pictures of the spreader that I designed and made. I used 3/4" all thread to make that spreader and I would like to caution you folks now who may be thinking about making your own, DO NOT USE 3/4" ALL THREAD!!

I am presently redoing that spreader using 1" all thread because the 3/4" material is not strong enough and will bend. As others have said, be careful spreading those springs using any type spreader or method. It can be a dangerous job no matter how it's done.
 
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