Toe-In Adjustment

Vicky

Vicky

Senior Member
I don't know if this is a dumb question or not, but here goes.

How far above the ground should the Toe-In Measurements be made?

Thanks
 
I understand that Mike but what's so special about 6"? The toe in gauge I have says measure 6" and mark the front of the tires then roll it forward until they are 6" on the backside of the tire. I understand why you roll it but why is 6" the go to measurement?
 
6" is the go to measurement front and back because it is easy to accomplish. In addition the radius bar will interfere with a measurement anywhere close to the centre of the wheel. Because of the geometry of the steering system, if you set the toe in at 1/32" measuring at 6" front and back and then check it at, say, 10 " front and back you will get the same 1/32". The essential thing is to have the measurement front and back the same. I am referring to front and back as the first measurement at the front of the car and then rolling the car forward so that the measurement is taken at the same height at the rear of the wheel.

Dick
 
I measure at the height of the radius rod (wishbone) on the rear of the front tires, roll the car backwards and measure at the same height at the front. Loosen the bolt on the tie rod ends and adjust the tie rod so that the toe in at 1/16 closer at the front.
 
i check mine as high up as i can & then an equal amount on the other side . needs to be as straight across as possible so as to get a true reading . frame fenders etc get in the way but you can get close to straight across ............
 
The reason for 6" off the floor, is that most of the wheels are out of Round, even when they were New. To check this on your car, jack up the front end, in the center of your axle with a Floor jack. Spin each wheel and watch the Tire Thread and Wheel Wobble.

When I set the Toe-in, I raise both wheels off the Floor, Spin the wheel and using Gray Primer spray the center of tire about 1 inch wide pattern. Then take a Vise and using a #8 penny nail in the vise at a up angle, spin the wheel to the rear to mark a slight groove or mark into the Paint.

At 6" off the floor front and back, shouldn't be that far out of round. Going any higher, you would be defiantly be in a out of round area, as you saw when you spun the tire. Really shows up out of round when you spin tire with mark in the paint.

Take out the jack, both wheels now on the floor, measure up 6" front and rear of both tires, make a Horizontal line. Another reason for 6", is the ease to obtain your measurement. Using a helper and a Tape Rule, or a 1' Square stick, mark the distance between both lines, or get the Measurement. Using a Pipe wrench, turn the Tie Rod until you get + or - 1/16 distance between groove in paint. Do Not Roll the car back or forth, It must be held perfectly still as to not change the distance between scribe lines. Works for me, and for the heck of it, one time I had the car at a Alignment Shop and Had them check it, I was really close.
 
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Ford calls for 3/16-1/4" which is more than anything else I've read. I do like the fenderless picture in the bulletin, but my question was not the process of how to do it but the exact reason for 6". Why not 7 or 8 or the middle of the tire? I actually have the gauge from the bulletin.
 
jkeesey said:
Ford calls for 3/16-1/4" which is more than anything else I've read. I do like the fenderless picture in the bulletin, but my question was not the process of how to do it but the exact reason for 6". Why not 7 or 8 or the middle of the tire? I actually have the gauge from the bulletin.
Click to expand...

I thought I answered this once, but it must have been on a different thread, or it mysteriously vanished into cyberspace?:confused:

6" will establish a standard so everyone can have the same DEGREES of inward angle to the tires. At 6" height the front measurement will be an established distance forward of the rear measurement, which is also taken at 6". Let's say it comes out to be 12" but someone else takes a measurement at 8" high. To get 8" high you will have to set the toe-in bar farther ahead for the front measurement and farther to the rear for the rear measurement. Thus the distance between the two measurements might be 14" or 15". If the same 1/16" toe-in is used, the angle of the tires pointing inward will be different. You will have less actual toe in using 8" than the standard 6".
 
jkeesey said:
Ford calls for 3/16-1/4" which is more than anything else I've read. I do like the fenderless picture in the bulletin, but my question was not the process of how to do it but the exact reason for 6". Why not 7 or 8 or the middle of the tire? I actually have the gauge from the bulletin.
Click to expand...

I'm pretty sure the toe-in number you quote was later revised to be much less.
 
jkeesey. The 1/4" setting was early in production and changed later. {don't know the date when it was changed]
 
Ford changed the early toe in recommendation from 3/16 to 1/16 plus or minus 1/32. There seems to be different instructions with different toe in setting tools. I believe that the tool that the dealerships used had little chains that would extend to the floor that determined the correct height that the tool would be set from. I have a low cost telescopeing, spring loaded tool for measuring the toe in. The height of the wishbone is the higest point that the measurement can be taken at the rear of the front tires because the oil pan would be in the way. I set the tool at the rear of the front tires at wishbone level and take note of the measurement between the inside of the rear of the front tires and the height of the tool from the floor. With the tool still in place, I push the car backwards untill the tool reaches the same height as it was when set up at the rear of the front tires. I then take note of the measurement and adjust the tie rod so that the toe in is 1/16 closer at the front than the rear. Setting the wheels toed in at the front helps keep the wheels going straight. I can turn the steering wheel loose and my model A will keep going straight, unless the road curves. If the wheels are toed out it can cause wander and shimmy. If the wheels are toed in too much it will wear the edge of the tires and cause drag that eats up power . I usually just use the tool to get the measurement close and drive it to the alignment shop where they use a Hunter light align machine.
 
Purdy I pretty much use the same process you described. I'm not a novice at toe adjustments just wanted to see if anyone had some more clarified information. I have the original tool with the two chains and the modern tool sold with the small adjusting carriage bolt at one end. I usually use the new tool since its a fraction of the weight of the original. I always set them to 1/16" I've just never read the original bulletin and that's what it stated.
 
I believe that the revised toe-in value was about 1/16 inch.
Also, I have not found the "6 inch" number in the service bulletin. It is on Marco's site though.

Marc
 
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