S10 T5 4x4 into a '42-48?

havi

Senior Member
First, if this is unsuitable for this forum section, please delete or move.

Second, has anyone used this ****** in these cars? I'm hoping to keep the torque tube and X member intact. I've read of the adapter crazzydaddyo on the Hamb makes, but most info about it is where it's stuffed into a Model A. I'm trying to keep the car as close to original as possible, and if removing some rivets here and there is needed for crossmembers, I can do that, but I don't want to be cutting into my driveshaft and torque tube, or cutting the rear bones.

Thanks, havi
 
The t5 in any form will require your torque tube and driveshaft to be shortened by a couple of inches, even with an adaptor like Crazydaddios. It may be that an earlier torque tube and driveshaft will be suitable, as the 46-48 is the longest of them. I'm picking a 37-39 might be the goods. The crossmember will also need some work. I have just wrapped up a trans swap like this, although using a F150 trans and it's in a Model A, but the engine is 47 C59A. I was going to use one of CDs torque tube adaptors, but got no replies from him so made my own. Its quite simple really.
 
I used the same adapter but was directed to purchase it from Steve Serr.Aparently Crazydaddyo( I can't remember his real name)makes them but Steve sells them.I have Steves contact info but its out in the shop if you don't hear back let me know and I will give you Steves contact info
 
I think rearends for a 42-48 are still fairly common and available. You could always pick up an extra one so you have one to modify and one to keep original should you choose to do so later.
 
When I looked at this a few years ago, about the time Crazydaddyo was developing his, I chose to evaluate the Jeep 4x4 T5 because it is significantly shorter than the S10 4x4 T5 - on the order of 4" or so. See pics below - pretty pic is S10, garage pic is Jeep, last pic is my "mock up" with the duct tape representing my adapter. I collected all of the parts, but my projects have all gone on hold as life has changed for me significantly in the past few years - I'll get to them, but things need to slow down a bit.

All that said, I did some very extensive "tape measure engineering" on my '40 Coupe and came to the conclusion that by using the shorter 33-34 torque-tube/driveshaft with the Jeep T5, my T5-to-torque-tube adapter needed to be about 2-1/8" thick. I also assumed that the center portion of the X-member would need to come out similar to the way the Chassis Engineering Inc piece does with just a top and bottom plate because there was only an inch or so between that and the bearing retainer/bell. It could all be done by removing rivits, but having the body off to get the top ones out would be very helpful.

The overall length increase of just the parts (minus my adapter) was less than the difference between the earlier torque-tube, so I actually had to fabricate the adapter to be thicker than it would otherwise. Consequently, one could make a thin adapter at the back and simply shorten the '40 driveshaft/torquetube and it may require less cutting in the center X-member area - I hadn't explored that yet as I had a 33-34 driveshaft/torquetube already. I think the overall measurement of everything, without the back adapter, was just a tad over 19", I think 19-1/16" from memory. I don't recall what the early Ford 3-spd was without the rear bearing retainer/bell/clamshell, but I want to say it was in the neighborhood of 13" or so. So, the basic Jeep T5 is about 6" longer, plus any adapter...

I would suspect you could do something similar with the later cars. I don't know how much longer the torque-tube is on those, or if it even is, but my gut tells me that the S10 is too long to even consider without surgery to the crossmember and/or legs.

I do know that Crazydaddyo did make at least one adapter for the Jeep T5. However, when pressed, he said he didn't think the demand was there to make anymore. I disagree, but it's his 'production line'. I have conversed extensively with Dan (Crazydaddyo) about this. He gets a little cagey when we start talking about yokes as that's the secret to both of these. The internal spline of the yoke is an oddball and also requires a larger than normal OD to engage the seal (or a new seal).

I was going to fabricate my own shaft/yoke and have the basic drawings, but haven't made one to prove it viable, so consider that still theory. The basic idea is to machine the input shaft from a Dana 300 transfer case to mate with a machined output shaft from an early Ford 3-spd. My adapter would look a lot like the rear of the 3-spd and accept an output shaft bearing and the stock bearing retainer/ball/clamshell assembly. If that inspires you, please pursue it (good luck finding Dana 300 input shafts w/o buying a whole xfer case though).
 

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Thanks, Ernie and Bassman, the pics help. My body is off of the chassis, so I figured now would be the time to do some experimentation.

Also, it helps that I work in a machine shop.

I recently picked up a 2wd T5 for my F1, and so I can take measurements off of that, too.... knowing the tailshafts are different.

I have a Bronco Dana 20, and F100 Dana 21 with their respective spud shafts, and may take a look at them as well.
 
Dudes, I have no idea what y'all are fixing to do, but this is just the stuff that makes the FordBarn THE place to go! I have friends with Falcons, IH trucks from the '60's, etc. I just wished they had this kind of support group!

_+VT/Jeff
 
My "driver" is a '54 IH R100. I have a spare engine/bellhousing (SD220), and a GRD214 from my KB2. I plan to attempt a way to adapt the T5 to these engines as well.
 
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