Engine stand adapters - Model A > modern stands

I would like to find an engine stand that I can run my engine in. I have one for my V8.
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Sorry Chris I posted the wrong pic of the number. It is 14411. Rod
 

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Engine run stands like these can easily be made. I was fortunate to have 3 of the gleaner combine engine mounts and used one of them to make this one. Rod
 

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All the Clayborne engine stands were the same for Chevy 6, Plymouth-Dodge 6, and flathead Ford. Only the upper adapters were the different. I should think any Clayborne stand would be easy to adapt to Model A.
 
It was quite eacy to adapt for the A. Before I go to the work to adapt it to a flathead, does anyone have one for a flathead they would want to trade? Likely the base is the same, so would only have to trade the cradle. Rod
 
Save your money-no need for a special adaptor; std. engine stand with a few spacers I had lying around-works fine;)
 

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Save your money-no need for a special adaptor; std. engine stand with a few spacers I had lying around-works fine;)


Just curious, how do you install the flywheel housing, --and more importantly check the run-out on the flywheel after that has been installed??

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Brent - "Just curious, how do you install the flywheel housing, --and more importantly check the run-out on the flywheel after that has been installed??"

I did it this way-bear in mind this is an infrequent task -still working for a living-Model A & restoration is a hobby so a lot of times I make do with creative/low cost solutions
 

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I work on lots of engines...tear down and assembly. I find it most comvenient to use both adapters...side mount and rear mount. After pulling an engine, while still on the chain hoist, I install the side mount and lower it to set in the engine stand to allow good support while removing the pressure plate, flywheel and flywheel housing. Think safety first: An engine swinging freely from a chain is very unsafe to demount a flywheel from. At this point, with the head mounted bracket and chain still on the engine, I lift it slightly and change over to the rear mount. Hands down, the most convenient stand adapter to use during the dissembly and assembly is the method brum1 shows a couple posts prior. I have holes drilled in the rear mount adapter to allow for rigid positioning based on my preferred assembly methods. I happen to prefer spacers about twice as long as brum1 is showing to allow better access to the rear main bolts. When assembling the engine after the head, pan and all covers are installed, I again switch to the side mount to allow easy mounting of the flywheel housing and flywheel. Point the front of the engine down to check alignment of the flywheel housing and to check for wobble at the flywheel. It may seem that it takes to much time to switch but with a chain hoist and small impact wrench, it only requires 2-3 minutes to switch...time well spent to make it convenient and safe.
Good Day!
www.durableperformance.net
 
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Just for your information.

We no longer sell the $60 engine stand adapter reffered to in an earlier post here.

We could not get any more made and still sell them any where near that price.

We do still stock the Stipe engine stand adapter refered to also, for $90. Very nice quality.

Steve Becker
Berts Model A Center
modelastore.com
 
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