Smoothing out dents

[metalho]

Starting to work on some dents, or at least figure out what tools Ill need to do so. This 30 truck was used to haul gravel and was used like a truck, lots of little dents in the bed and fenders. Used a body hammer and a backing block and it doesn't work all that well, will I need to buy some air tools to work on this heavy gage stuff?

 

[TomW]

A heavier hammer did the trick for me! Not much light tapping on that metal!

 

[wrndln]

You might try a shrinking disc. I have used one and it helps shrink the dents, but the heavy model A sheetmetal takes a lot of work verses the relatively thin modern day car sheetmetal. If that doesn't work well, you might try torch shrinking, but be very careful as you can ruin a panel if you heat it too much or in the wrong spots. You might start on an area that is not prominent to see how it goes, before working on an area that is highly visible.

 

[BRENT in 10-uh-C]

Rusty has it right, a dent is stretched metal and unless you understand how the trauma (dent) stretched the metal, beating on it with a hammer will just re-arrange the sheetmetal and will not make the dent go away. There are a couple of guys that are good sheetmetal workers up in Washington state who might be able to give you some guidence. I will send you a PM with their contact info.

/

 

[metalho]

Thank you so much, been a welder for years but dont understand shrinking these dents.

 

[metalho]

Bump

 

[rollingsculpture]

the hammers i use for the dents and dangs the small one is actually very good for the little pings and creases

 

[metalho]

Just starting, have most of the hammers and making the rest. Found tacked area and bondo yesturday on the front fenders, lol. Tapping out more dents today, thought I would get the worst of them before sending parts out for media blasting. The paint gives a good ref to high and low spots.

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[rollingsculpture]

keep up the good work it takes time to get the metal to look nice again .try to get some good files to help in the smoothing, it will help to keep the bondo to a minimum, i like your hammer nice addition to the kit , i would be careful though since it is a flat face there is the possibility of leaving an imprint of the round edge in your metal therefore be sure to use flat single blows and watch the metal closely to see whats happening. also check harbor freight for a hammer and dolly set , i think thats where mine came from ,i bought it from a yard sale but seem to remember seeing it in a catalog for less than 100 bucks .keep on dinging !

 

[metalho]

Bigger hammer and and and big block of flat brass is workin GREAT on the bed box.

 

[JTW]

Years ago, I had an older man who was a "body metalsmith" work on some fenders, and the first thing that he did was put them in a culvet that was covered with dirt (for insulation) and ran a jet heater in the end to heat the fender up to anneal it. He said it cut the time and effort in half to fix them. The fenders came out flawless and the only tools used were hammers, dollies, files and sometimes a little body lead.

 

[JTW]

Here is a little on shrinking from the Fairmont Company method printed in the 1929's.

 

[BRENT in 10-uh-C]

Years ago, I had an older man who was a "body metalsmith" work on some fenders, and the first thing that he did was put them in a culvet that was covered with dirt (for insulation) and ran a jet heater in the end to heat the fender up to anneal it. He said it cut the time and effort in half to fix them. The fenders came out flawless and the only tools used were hammers, dollies, files and sometimes a little body lead.

To be real honest with you, he may have "thought" that, but in reality due to the low carbon content, that really was not an accurate thought or statement on his part.

To start with, most of the sheetmetal we are working on in Model A restoration only hardens with constant working (hammer & dolly/planishing). The heat generated from the hammer face striking the sheetmetal, and the slight movement of the metal creates a ever-so-slight amount of heat that over time (like long periods using a pneumatic planishing hammer) will cause the metal to get a little harder. Rolling it in a "wheel" will relax it but again, this is only after it has been work hardened. Your friend heated the sheetmetal before it ever got work hardened, so it is unlikely that it made a difference after he began metalworking the trauma.

BTW, I would bet that your buddy's fenders would have came out just as "flawless" using those same tools without annealing nor the need for lead. Lead & Body filler were only invented to help those who do not have the time and/or patience to finish the job with a hammer & dolly!!

.

 

[BRENT in 10-uh-C]

BTW, John Kelly is the gentleman in Washington State that can either teach you or sell you the tools (DVD, shrinking disc., etc.) to remove those dents.

.

 

[metalho]

BTW, John Kelly is the gentleman in Washington State that can either teach you or sell you the tools (DVD, shrinking disc., etc.) to remove those dents.

.

Hey, thank you Sir.

 

[Kodibear333]

I have been welding and working metal since I was in the Navy 40 years ago and never ran across anyone that knew how to shrink a dent. That was one of the most informative and interesting things I ever learned about metal working. Thanks!!! mark

 

[jhowes]

Brent; I have one of those shrinking disc's and find it useless.. Apparently one needs to buy an expensive DVD to learn the proper use of the tool. Anyone want to buy it?

 

[Dan Partain]

JTW posted part of an old booklet from 1932 above, it's called Body and Fender Repair Manual by the Fairmount Tool and Forging Company. It looks like it was intended to help sell their tools. I think this company may have also made tools for the Ford tool kits.

Jeff sent me a photo of each page and I created a pdf out of it. It's pretty cool to see the body working tools and methods from that time period. It's about 6 Mb's, I tried to balance size and quaility.

Check it out - http://www.cdan4it.com/temp/BodyFenderManual.pdf

You can right-click on the link to save it, or just click the link to open it.

Thanks Jeff, it's pretty cool!

-DAN

 

[Rich in Tucson]

Is there any preference (or heaven forbid, a rule) among youse pros for working metal that is painted or completely stripped to bare metal? I am wondering if hammering, torch heating and shrinking, and grinding moves unwanted junk into the metal (if it is painted) that can later mess with paint.

 

[BRENT in 10-uh-C]

JTW posted part of an old booklet from 1932 above, it's called Body and Fender Repair Manual by the Fairmount Tool and Forging Company. It looks like it was intended to help sell their tools. I think this company may have also made tools for the Ford tool kits.

Jeff sent me a photo of each page and I created a pdf out of it. It's pretty cool to see the body working tools and methods from that time period. It's about 6 Mb's, I tried to balance size and quaility.

Check it out - http://www.cdan4it.com/temp/BodyFenderManual.pdf

You can right-click on the link to save it, or just click the link to open it.

Thanks Jeff, it's pretty cool!

-DAN

Dan, I am not sure if you can get in trouble or not but that booklet is sold commercially by several vendors who may not view favourably to a public posting???

Rich, I am unaware of any way the paint would get imbedded into the metal but it is probably just the same as why we prefer to rebuild an engine in a clean environment instead of a dirt floor garage.