Electronic Points

L

larryf

Member
I am going to install a set of pertronix points and wondered if anyone has used these and how did they work?
 
I was a big fan of them (even a dealer for the manufacturer) however the biggest issue I had with them was ensuring a good ground and driver error. The driver's error part comes when the ignition switch s not turned off when the engine is not running. This overheats the module and causes it to malfunction. The ground issues should be self explanetory as to all the intermittant issues it can cause. The only other downside is one cannot use a stock ignition switch with these units.

With that said, the benefits can be a smoother running engine that has a potentially hotter spark. The hotter spark comes from the fact that the coil saturation time can be better over a point triggered ignition. The smoother running engine comes from equal firing of the spark plugs where a dist. cam tht has worn lobes cannot produce accurate timing and usually has poor coil saturation times. The biggest thing to help the stock type ignition system is Bill Stipes dist. cams which are a tremendous improvement over other reproduction dist. cams. Hope this helps.
 
IMHO, one of the joys of a Model A is that you can tinker with it. If the points go bad, you can change them with a minimum of hand tools. You can do this on the side of the road of need be, and you'll be off on your merry way in no time. When the electronics crap out on you on the side of the road, you'll find yourself on a flatbed trailer. Your choice.
 
Will N said:
IMHO, one of the joys of a Model A is that you can tinker with it. If the points go bad, you can change them with a minimum of hand tools. You can do this on the side of the road of need be, and you'll be off on your merry way in no time. When the electronics crap out on you on the side of the road, you'll find yourself on a flatbed trailer. Your choice.
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You can change a set of electronic points just about as fast as regular points. It's just three wires, two to the coil, and one to the firewall for ground.
 
Do you really need better hotter spark? Depends, do you have a real high compression engine? Probably not. Stock points with a properly rebuilt engine will give you over 60 MPH (cruise 55 happy as a clam) and more than 20 MPG. A good set of points will likely last you a generation or 2, your grand-kids could be using the same points you put in when you built the car.

If points fail on the road, which really never happens if you use quality parts, you can probably limp home. Usually the problem is forgetting to tighten a screw or your upper lower wire messed up. If you a messing with your points a lot then you doing something wrong.

When electronic points fail or meet a marginal voltage condition you are calling a tow.

Both work great if you understand how to work with them. I know my brothers car has been running since 1970 with the same used points that came with the car.

Anyway, stuff to keep in mind.
 
Kevin in NJ said:
Do you really need better hotter spark? Depends, do you have a real high compression engine? Probably not. Stock points with a properly rebuilt engine will give you over 60 MPH (cruise 55 happy as a clam) and more than 20 MPG. A good set of points will likely last you a generation or 2, your grand-kids could be using the same points you put in when you built the car.

If points fail on the road, which really never happens if you use quality parts, you can probably limp home. Usually the problem is forgetting to tighten a screw or your upper lower wire messed up. If you a messing with your points a lot then you doing something wrong.

When electronic points fail or meet a marginal voltage condition you are calling a tow.

Both work great if you understand how to work with them. I know my brothers car has been running since 1970 with the same used points that came with the car.

Anyway, stuff to keep in mind.
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Kevin, your "points" are very valid ( :D ) but one thing that I see in my line of work that many here may not realize is the point Will was making. He enjoys working on his own vehicle and he is to be commended HOWEVER he is not in the majority. Many folks do not really understand the concept of maintenance or restoration however they enjoy the hobby. Others have a very limited window for recreation and therefore it is not their desire for their time to be allocated to doing maintenance or restoration. Instead they want to be able to get into their Model-A and know it will start and drive reliably both to, --and from their destination without the need for them to "tinker".

One other thought regarding do you need a hotter spark? My opinion is Yes, it is a true benefit for many individuals who have difficulty in properly adjusting their carburetor GAV. A richer fuel mixture aids in starting, can make additional power providing the fuel mixture can be burned cleanly, and the engine tends to not overheat with a fatter fuel mixture.


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If your condenser is good, and the distributor cam is clean, polished and lubricated, the points last a long time. Points seldom fail. They are not easily affected by heat, as electronics are. They are simple to adjust, and to adjust timing. I guess some folks love electronics, but I dont see the point of it all. If it ain't broke, don't fix it.
 
I like my Petronix but IMHO don't try starting with a semi discharged battery. The electronic needs a litttle more battery to start the engine. That's my theory and I'm sticking with it.
 
Ross is correct. If the car is cranking over but wont start and you have Electronic Ignition, you may have a weak battery. Electronic Ignition needs a good strong battery and to be well grounded.
 
Make sure you run the ground wire all the way to the battery ground terminal. Also, the new electronic points have built in protection and won't overheat or burnout if the ignition switch is left on with the motor not running.
 
I use points. They will make plenty of spark for a low compression, low RPM, four cylinder engine. You must use quality parts, which is a good idea anyway.
 
AL in NY said:
Make sure you run the ground wire all the way to the battery ground terminal. Also, the new electronic points have built in protection and won't overheat or burnout if the ignition switch is left on with the motor not running.
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Al, Are you sure the electronic modules are protected? Four months ago I purchased a module directly from Pertronix and also recently spoke to Mel at First Street Ignitions about the "burns out if you leave the key on" claim. Both sources said they will/could burn out if left powered without the engine running.
What brand module are you describing that won't burn out?
Thanks for the info...I may have to do some more research.
Good Day!
 
You would be better off to leave your ignition system as Henry ordered. It is simple, easy to deal with, and all you need to operate your Model A. When you start messing with Henry's design you are asking for trouble down the road.

Tom Endy
 
Dave the third generation Pertronix are protected against key-left-on. At least their website shows this.

Not sure Mel is using this tho.

However, if you leave the key on with a points system there are consequences, also.

I was quite impressed with how much the FSI system smoothed out my motor, tho, and I had the Stipe dizzy cam on there before

In any event, we carry spare caps for a points system, and I carry a spare module for my FSI, and a spare dizzy ready to go. We have a mix of cars here

your mileage may vary of course
 
Used to be commonplace to run around with a really weak battery when you couldn't afford a new one.
To get going you either parked on a hill or had your buddies give you a push. The car would start with even just a few volts in the system.
It would even start with a totally dead battery if you had a generator.
Kind of lose that capability with electronic ignition, but yes, it does make a great spark!
 
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