Opinions on using a Shortened Pitman Arm

Wilbur

Senior Member
What do you guys have to say regarding using the imported shortened pitman arm to reduce steering effort?
 
I cut and welded mine 10 years ago, and I find it to ease steering effort, with no loss of turning radius. I just bought a new one for the coupe. I could have welded another, but a new one was easier.
 
I cut and welded mine 10 years ago, and I find it to ease steering effort, with no loss of turning radius. I just bought a new one for the coupe. I could have welded another, but a new one was easier.


Totally agree, 35 dollars very worth it.
 
the new manufactured ones are the safest. There have been failures with welded ones. Even Henry shortened the pitman arm for 1932. Combine it with round spindle balls and the steering gets much easier. If the spindle balls are .020 out of round, they will contribute to stiff steering. A&L re balls the spindle arms the right way so the ball does not break off. With new smooth surfaces you can use the Teflon buttons, AKA EZ steer kit, in the tie rod and drag link ends which will make it even easier to steer..
 
I agree, a short pitman arm is the way to go for easy steering.
However, I have gone the other way with a longer one on my F100 box along with a linear controlled power assist cylinder.
It gives me 3/4 turn lock to lock which is ideal for the type of driving I have come to enjoy most of late. Going FAST down dirt logging roads. I can see why rally racers do what they do.
 
I tried one on my 40B. Being a light car, I did not feel any significant ease in the steering effort. It did, however make it feel like I was driving a bus with the slowed ratio. I put the stock arm back on. I like the quicker steering and more direct road feel.
 
I have a shorted pitman arm on one of Model A's. I do not find it to make any difference in the required turning effort. Also, now it takes a lot more area to make a U turn. When I get time, I plan to replace back to an original. Lee
 
I have a new one on my roadster and it makes it easier to turn. The wheels still turn lock to lock so the radius didn't change.
 
Anyone have any instructions on welding one of these up? Where to make the cut? What rod works best (70/ 8018LH?) Preheat? Cool slowly or quench? I am thinking of drilling it out and putting a 5/16 X 2" rod down the middle, in effect, a spine. Or weld a piece on the back where it can't be seen to bridge over the weld. Jest thinkin'!
Terry
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ross/Kzoo
An added advantage is that it keeps the drag link separated from the tie rod, no rubbing.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Pete
????

Probably caused by a sagging front spring ??




The drag link is on top of the spindle.
The tie rod is on the bottom of the spindle.
 

It is physically impossible for the drag link and the tie rod to rub on a stock A front end. Not even if you remove the spring...Not even if you disconnect the drag link from the pitman are and lay the end on the ground. They are seperated by 7 inches.
 
Maybe I called it wrong but there was rubbing. I about started from scratch so maybe I did something wrong. I'll post pictures later.
 

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Anyone have any instructions on welding one of these up? Where to make the cut? What rod works best (70/ 8018LH?) Preheat? Cool slowly or quench? I am thinkingg of drilling it out and putting a 5/16 X 2" rod down the middle, in effect, a spine. Or weld a piece on the back where it can't be seen to bridge over the weld. Jest thinkin'!
Terry


Terry the way i did mine is cut a v take out 1and 1/2 preheat oven 450 the used cast iron rods build with each pass when done pack it in sand and let cool. done this with three none broke couple of thousand miles on each
 
Terry the way i did mine is cut a v take out 1and 1/2 preheat oven 450 the used cast iron rods build with each pass when done pack it in sand and let cool. done this with three none broke couple of thousand miles on each

Cast iron filler rod on a steel forging? Accident waiting to happen.
 
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