Opinion on Brake Bands

I have not but those that have, years ago thought that they really helped. I think that they want too much money for them now. But compaired to new cast drums they are a good option.
 
I have them on the front of my roadster and they work well. Make sure you have enough drum thickness to start with.
 
We install them from time-to-time when the budget cannot afford cast iron drums AND the installation. They do work very well once installed & trued.
 
The last ones I saw (don't know the source) were not even round, especially at the area of the weld. That means they require some truing before ever installing. At that point the drum will still not be true after installing and will have to be turned reducing the thickness even more. It's important to know how much your drums have been turned already.

You would likely fare better if you can truly get 100% she to drum contact as that will lower the temps and thus the brake fade. If you live in an area hills are more common than not I'd suggest going with new drums. If you are in an area that is mostly flat ground there is no excuse for brake fade.
 
I have them on some of my cars, and not on the others.. Having bands does reflect in a better pedal feel and more steady braking.. I think by taking the bit of ovaling out of the drum when heating up when under pressure from heavy braking. I do not have them on my project coupe yet, but am considering them or just new cast drums as mine are a bit thin..

- Dave
 
I have used them for 5 years on my 30 Tudor. Small price to pay for a remarkable change and eliminating fade. I also added flathead teds. Like both products.
Best regards
 
When you measure the inside diameter of the brake bands with an inside micrometer, using either vernier calipers or a inside tubular micrometer, you will find the band to be distorted. You need to measure the outside diameter of the drum where the band will mount. You have to compare the measurements. The band needs to be installed basically "high to low" in an attempt to bring everything back to as close to true as possible. A torch will be required to heat the bands to a high enough temperature to expand the band.
The drums then need to be trued on a lathe. The bands that you are aquiring are well made.
 
1930artdeco said:
I have cast iron drums, are they worth it to help absorb the heat?

Mike
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Yes, the cast iron will have very little fade compared to stamped steel drums. I still use my original drums, and as Marco said they work fine, but could fade on a long steep downgrade, which I don't have to worry about. I'd shift to second for a steep downgrade anyway.
 
When I lived in Colorado (Still don't know why I moved), I drove down from Ward (10,000 ft) to Longmont (5000 ft) via a windy small road (left hand Canyon) in my Model A. I used 2nd gear most of the time and didn't need much brake at all. Didn't go very fast, but then again it's my Model A amd I go at the speed I want.

Marc
 
Hi Tom,

Sorry I was not that clear in my question. I already have cast iron drums on the car. My question is, would brake bands help at all in heat absorption/dissappation?

Mike
 
1930artdeco said:
Hi Tom,

Sorry I was not that clear in my question. I already have cast iron drums on the car. My question is, would brake bands help at all in heat absorption/dissappation?

Mike
Click to expand...

I don't think the bands will even fit cast iron drums due to the increased thickness. If they fit, they should help in cooling, but aren't really needed.
 
"inside micrometer, using either vernier calipers or a inside tubular micrometer"

Hmm. I don't possess any of those tools. Am I wasting my time if I install them "as shipped?"
 
I have bands on 2 of my cars and cast iron on 2. Cast iron is definately better on a heavy car. Original steel drums are probably ok on a coupe or roadster if they're not turned more than .030.
 
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