Tow bar for light towing

[Tom Wesenberg]

Great feedback, and as always... Thanks.

I picked up a tow bar from Harbor freight with the thought that I could interchange the front bumper clamps with the bar mounting bracket. This way one bolt hole would already be provided and I would only have to get creative on securing the second bolt to the support. Do you guys think the bumper supports are forgiving enough to allow towing like this or would they yield out of their original position? Photos attached for reference of the positioning...

It should work fine that way. I made my own tow bar and have about 7,000 tow miles on it and have never had a problem. I 've only used it once in the past twenty years since I built a light car hauling trailer. My tow bar would be bolted through the clamp holes also.

 

[jrapose]

I had one set up like that years ago, and it pulled the bumper apart...the bumper brackets just pulled apart....and it was a wild ride getting off the road....I would never ever tow using a bumper clamped tow bar....never ever !

I now have a VW style under the axle type tow bar...with some wings welded on to take any side to side play away....I think they used to sell for about $25 years ago and every volkswagen parts house sold them....probably see lots of them at swap meets for cheap.... I only use a tow bar in a pinch, but would far prefer to use a trailer....they rent cheap usually about $30 a day or better yet I bought my own so I diden't have to worry about towing....I also bought proper tie downs for the trailer...it makes the job much easier and after alll these years of using it has paid for itself many times over.

joel
Chester

 

[Merc Cruzer]

Re: Tow bar for light towing - later flathead cars

Since I live in Colorado and we have been known to have a fire or two during summer, I put together this tow bar setup for my 53' Merc with the same tow bar from Harbor Freight, to allow the car to be towed short distances on a short notice. The mounts stay on the car peminately so all you have to do is fasten the tow bar with the two pins and hook it the trailer hitch (in my case on the back of the Grand Cherokee) and you are ready to go. Time about 15 minutes. Not noticeable when standing in front of the car

 

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

OK, you don't have to tie down the steering wheel! The front end won't fall apart when you drill holes in the axle and forget about disconnecting the steering! This is the same tow bar I used to haul a Jeep from San Diego to Telluride and back for years. Don't forget, the dry lake racers used Ford wishbones to make tow bars to haul race cars over the Grapevine before WWII!

When I take a vehicle in for service, I haul the roadster so that I don't have to inconvenience my wife for a ride.

Dennis,
Saw a HUGE motor home pull over when it's towed Toyota Truck began shimmying badly. He tied the Toyota's steering wheel TIGHTLY to the windwing post!!! Sure would have liked to see his first 90 degree turn!!!!!!!!! Bill W.

 

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

I did not want to damage the chrome on the bumper so I remove the bumper and attach a channel iron in its place, then fasten the tow bar to the channel iron.

1930 coupe,
Good lookin' simple, safe, tow bar. Love your "Black Phantom" Coupe! Hey! that's an Oklahoma license plate, my country! Pics of "MINERVA," had to sell her, (Sigh!) for care home $$$$ for Pat. Bill W.

 

[Car Pit]

I appreciate the warnings and the ideas. Making those brackets functional, accessible, and inconspicuous is a fun challenge.

Joel,
I'll be sure those brackets are not mounted only to the bumper bars.

Denis,
I really like the idea of towing the model A in when I'm getting my truck serviced. That makes the routine service call sound more motivating.

 

[modela@aol.com]

I have an old tow bar that looks to be home made that was made to clamp onto the drag line in addition to the axle attachment allowing it to steer the Model A during towing. It works on the 28-29 with no problems but the 30-31's you have to remove the radiator apron to get the clearance. May not hurt to remove the front bumper as well.

I carry it under the rear seat in my Tudor on long tours. I personally have never needed it but it has been loaned out of several occasions. Reports back have been that it helped to keep the towed vehicle straight and works like a charm on sharp turns...

I dug out that Model A tow bar that I mentioned earlier and took some snaps of it. It is pretty hevi duty and just plain heavy..

It clamps onto the axle and then the back end clamps onto the steering drag line. Works like a hay rack wagon tongue for steering. It is small enough to fit under my Tudor back seat along with a good log chain and is my towing insurance policy to get pulled off the road to a service spot...

 

[leo]

I'm resurrecting this post because it talks about VW tow bars and Harbor Freight universal tow bars. I need the specifics. I have a Ford F150 pickup and a 1930 coupe. I want to carry a tow bar in the pickup should I get stuck. Not going any long distance, just home to the garage. Are there any posts, Model A News or Model A Restorer layouts which detail what to do for this purpose?

 

[JackA]

I remember seeing a plan for one in a "Restorer" magazine. Hooked to the outside bumper bracket bolts.

 

[BruceUpstate NY]

The best would be the ones that used to be manufactured for making hay wagons from a car chassis. A forged or cast part clamped to the front axle. A tongue extended from the hitch point , pivoted at the axle, and clamped with a pivot point on the tie rod. Just like a hay wagon today.

 

[bettlesr]

Years ago, I flat towed a 1956 Corvette from NJ to NH and back behind a 1961 Chevy convertible a number of times to the track. Only problem I ever had was when one of the front tires in on the Corvette blew out. It was an interesting and wild ride getting it slowed down. I had a wire feeding the tail and stop lights and a reflective sign I put on the back saying "Car in Tow". After the tire incident, the next and all further trips were on a double axle trailer behind a full size van.
Tow brackets were welded on to the front of the chassis on the Corvette.

 

['29wagon]

I tow my willys jeep with one of those like denis4x4 has in that picture and the cast c channels twisted to the point of danger.
I replaced them with 2"square tube but I still don't trust the ball connector,I've seen them damaged .
Always use a chain and take it slow.

 

[Mike V. Florida]

I'm resurrecting this post because it talks about VW tow bars and Harbor Freight universal tow bars. I need the specifics. I have a Ford F150 pickup and a 1930 coupe. I want to carry a tow bar in the pickup should I get stuck. Not going any long distance, just home to the garage. Are there any posts, Model A News or Model A Restorer layouts which detail what to do for this purpose?

I don't think you will find one specific well documented step by step procedure.

If I were you I would get the Harbor freight unit ($80.00) and fit it to the car with the bumper removed as to prevent the clamps from breaking. Mount the tow bar to the bumper mounts.

I removed the pitman arm and hung it by a piece of wire to take strain off the steering box.

 

[BarracudaBoy]

I dug out that Model A tow bar that I mentioned earlier and took some snaps of it. It is pretty hevi duty and just plain heavy..

It clamps onto the axle and then the back end clamps onto the steering drag line. Works like a hay rack wagon tongue for steering. It is small enough to fit under my Tudor back seat along with a good log chain and is my towing insurance policy to get pulled off the road to a service spot...

View attachment 108405

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View attachment 108407

I like that design!

 

[Car Pit]

I bought the Harbor Freight unit and it has served well pulling the car back and forth on a couple short runs.

I remove the bumper clamps, turn the backing plates to the front, and mount the adaptors with the bumper in place. I also disconnect the pitman arm.

Everything needs to be tightened down securely, otherwise you'll risk bending the bumper brackets that connect the bumper to the frame.